Action Wrenches

Blygy

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Alberta, Canada
In their description, Sinclair points out that their tools are not intended for removing factory installed barrels, but are for use changing barrels on switch barrel rifles.
 
I'd like to get my hands on a LaBounty (Sp?) action wrench, as seen in Patrick Sweeny's book on Gunsmithing. Can't find it for sale anyware and apparently LaBounty has retired.

+1 to what Tiriaq said. The external ones just sounds more secure, although I have no experience with any of them. Hard to imagine getting enough leverage on the internal one easily.
 
3 things needed for Savage actions ... I use a barrel vice, a nut wrench and an internal "spade" wrench.

For Remington actions I use a barrel vice and the same internal wrench... for factory barrels as well... never had a problem. External wrenches are required for military actions and 98's.

I made it out of a piece of Ford axle.

wrench.jpg
 
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As tiriag mentioned, do not use an internal action wrench to remove a factory barrel. Phone your local machine shop and ask for a 2"x2" block of aluminum bored to 1.360" then split it in half. I like to make a thick split only on one side and use my shop vise instead of the bolt vise you normally see in these type of posts. PT&G makes a nice internal wrench for $50 that you can use a torque wrench on.

Cheers

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/products/parts/remington.htm#misc

ps, I made one like Dennis did ;)
 
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I don't know why Sinclair recommends that their internal wrench not be used for removing factory barrels. Perhaps it is not as substantial as guntech's.
I have a Davidson internal wrench that I have had for many years. When pulling a factory barrel, I generally use my external wrench which locks on the receiver ring - I can see the receiver trying to twist with this particular internal wrench. The Davidson is fine for installing a barrel, or removing one I have installed; I just prefer not to use it for breaking a barrel loose.
 
Why is it recommended not to use an internal wrench with a factory barrel?

Some are not rear entry and some may not work only on the front of the receiver.

A spade rear entry type that fits correctly works well with Remington actions. I also support the rear of the wrench to the floor so the action does not get twisted or forced. All the torque is close to the threads and in line with the threads. Some of the barrels sound like a shot being fired when they break loose.

Some action only an external wrench can be used or you take the chance of breaking the action. (98's are one of these)

Some action makers make wrenches for their actions and usually they are rear entry "spade" type only. They can be costly too - I have one that cost $145.
 
For Savages, one can clamp the receiver at the receiver ring and turn the nut; or he can clamp the nut and turn the receiver using a wrench like the one shown by Guntech. I use a similar wrench but mine is more like a bolt with long lugs; just long enough to engage the raceways within the receiver ring. I also have a port entry wrench which fits into the loading port then engaes the raceways the same way. With either wrench, one doesn't want to make it so it engages the raceways much behind the receiver ring. Otherwise, the rails (especially on a Remington) may be damaged.
Another thing which is necessary is to provide clearance for the little anti-bind rail. A wrench which fits a Remington will also fit a Savage, Ruger, and a Mauser. It will not fit a Winchester M70 which has narrower lugs.
In general, I use internal wrenches for round actions (Remington, Savage, Barnard, RPA etc.) and external wrenches for actions with a flat bottom (Mauser Winchester, Enfield, Springfield etc.). While there are those who say a pipe wrench is good enough for a Savage, I stop short of endorsing this practice. Regards, Bill.
 
Thanks for the info guys..

Guntech.. do you have the dimensions of your wrench.. My buddy can machine it up for me I'm sure...

Basically copy a 700 bolt only make it longer to hang out the back of the action... make it so the "spade" engages the action just before the lug recesses and as wide as you can and still have it fit an action ... make the bolt guide clearance cut on both sides so you can do left handed actions as well.
 
Basically copy a 700 bolt only make it longer to hang out the back of the action... make it so the "spade" engages the action just before the lug recesses and as wide as you can and still have it fit an action ... make the bolt guide clearance cut on both sides so you can do left handed actions as well.

I just bought an identical action wrench from Hollands. Works awesome. For the price of the wrench, it was worth it in material alone.
 
I made blocks to fit over the barrel from very hard hardwood (walnut cause I had some). In a strong vise, this holds the barreled action in place.

I use the barrel nut wrench to then turn off the barrel nut.

Nothing is on the action.

Jerry
 
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