Adding a notch to Benelli M4's adjustable stock

Roddy

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The M4 stock has two positions other than closed. I find the fully open position a quite long and the middle position pretty good for length but it brings the cheek piece up too high. The disassembly position is almost perfect but it doesn't lock in this position.

I don't want to get a shorter length of pull fixed stock because I do like being able to make the gun shorter for storage, plus it looks cool. I'm wondering if it would be possible to add another notch to the stock? Is the metal treated somehow, would the new notch rust? Could you do a good enough job with a file or angle grinder so it didn't feel loose and sloppy?

I love my M4 but I really wish it had a six position stock like the Super Nova. The Novas is also easier to deploy and adjust quickly.
 
I did exactly just that. LOP was around 10.5" (so I had mine shorter than the middle position) - although mine is short as I made a low profile cheek piece for it (MUCH nicer than factory)

Keep in mind, you will need 2 notches cut into it, not just one. One notch for it to rotate off the sliding axis, and one notch for the "button" to lock into.


The steel is soft enough to work with a file, I used a 1/4" round file to do most of the work, but it does take a bit of time. DO NOT RUSH doing this, as if the notches aren't cut very close to the original design, it won't lock into position solidly and can collapse or move under recoil.

You will definitely want some cold bluing solution to re-blue and protect the steel, but also keep a nice coat of a grease on the sliding stock (Frog lube works great as it won't run off).

Give me a couple min. here to grab a picture.

ETA

Here ya go:

So the BEST way to do this; would be get a mechanical pencil (something you can notice on the parkerized steel) and use a caliper or something you can set to an exact length (even a piece of thick paper you can use as a guide) and use a set of the original cutouts to mark you boundaries. Back and front of a cutout, then the up/down and mark it with your pencil. The cutouts are just a rounded cut so as long as you don't cross over your marked pencil lines it's kinda hard to mess up, if you're good with a hand file it shouldn't take too long; just don't be impatient and take too much off at a time!

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ETA2

If you notice, even my cuts aren't perfect, they don't need to be 100% of the correct "shape" just as long as the spacing and width between the 2 are the same. The closer you get them to the factory cuts, the less wobble and more solid it will be though!
 
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Oh that looks really good. How did you make your cheek piece? Got any pictures of that? A low profile cheek piece would also work as then I could use the middle position. I was thinking of putting an optic on it just so my cheek weld would be higher.
 
The cheek piece I made out of fiberglass cloth and synthetic leather on top.

I had to take cardboard/paper and tape and "fill in" the areas I didn't want the fiberglass cloth to go into, so essentially I turned the stock into a mold for it, then laid 5 layers on top of the stock, and then cut it to shape.

Turned out quite well, I never figured out why nobody made a low pro cheek piece for the M4 as the factory one kicks your face if you're down and into it. Mine is strait back so there is no cheek bone kicks! :D

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ETA

Knew I had a better picture of it somewhere!

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I will buy one of your cheek pieces if you can make me one.

The call the M4 modular but no makes a lot of the aftermarket parts I'm looking for so modularity doesn't do me any good.
 
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