Adding texture/ grip to wood stock

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North60

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Starting my first project gun, Ruger 10/22 Takedown. I have a wood stock that I'm planing on painting with the Krylon Camouflage paints. I was looking for ideas to have more texture of grip on the fore end and on the grip? Also if anyone has used these paints do the recommend adding a protective "clear " Finnish, or are the paints fairly durable by themselves. This gun will get lots of use so looking for the Finnish to last.
Thanks for any info.
 
I've used Krylon Camouflage paint on one of my .22s. Did not use a clear coat but that would probably make it more durable. I found out that when finished painting it is important to let it dry for quite some time (7-10 days) so the paint can completely cure.

As for more grip I've tried a product called "Plasti Dip". It indeed gives a good "grippy" surface but IMO it rubs off too easy. Would not recommend it because of that and the price. I was then contemplating using truck bed liner for the pistol grip and the forestock but never got around to it... After all I find the fully cured Krylon paint to be quite "grippy".
 
There are many "paint on" application grits for wood at places like Home Depot. We had a wheel chair access ramp leading to our second floor that saw a ton of traffic.. never had a problem with it wearing off and it was simply applied to plywood with a paint overcoat. I can't remember a specific brand, but I'm sure someone in the store could give you some insight. I believe they will even mix it into a paint for you if you like.
 
riversrest said:
I've used Krylon Camouflage paint on one of my .22s. Did not use a clear coat but that would probably make it more durable. I found out that when finished painting it is important to let it dry for quite some time (7-10 days) so the paint can completely cure.

As for more grip I've tried a product called "Plasti Dip". It indeed gives a good "grippy" surface but IMO it rubs off too easy. Would not recommend it because of that and the price. I was then contemplating using truck bed liner for the pistol grip and the forestock but never got around to it... After all I find the fully cured Krylon paint to be quite "grippy".
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I thought about the bedliner spray, I've used it a lot on my old Taco. I might try a sample piece and see how it works out.
 
Tape of the area you don't want grippy and use some some Krylon stone texture paint, then once dry paint over with your final colour and you get nice gripped sections. A coat or two of clear coat is a must Imo if your gonna spray bomb anything you want to last.
 
Since you're painting the wood anyway I'd go with the following idea.

First off sand off any old finish on the wood. The new finish may not achieve a good bond to the old.

While you're at it sand down the wood a little in the areas you want to have more grip. Now apply pieces of grip tape for skateboards to those areas shaped to suit your tastes. Now the trick part..... Use a filler to feather in the edges of the grip panels so when you're done that the rough spots seem to be flush with the surrounding surface instead of just stuck on afterwards. To get this and not fill into the grip material I'd apply a coat of masking tape over the grip material before you cut out the shapes. Then fill around the edges and sand to feather them in using care to touch but not sand through the masking tape. Now use a sanding primer over the whole thing going lightly only over the grip areas. Then sand the primer down except the grip areas. Remove the masking tape and carefully smooth sand the edges of the primer and filler where the edges of the tape were if needed. Now go for your top finish.

And a hearty +1 for giving the final job a week to 10 days to fully harden. New paint, ESPECIALLY multiple coats, takes a lot longer than most realize to fully dry and become as durable as it can be. If you handle it at all during that first week be sure to do so very gently. And I would not include fitting the guts in that gentle handling as it will be impossible to avoid getting oil from the metal onto the paint. And that will make a mess. BE PATIENT! ! ! !
 
I've got some motorcycle parts that I picked up that were done in the latest and greatest two part finish. The paint was put on a couple of days before I picked them up and just a light touch of one small spot against a hard edge left a small nick in the new job. I set them out to dry/cure for another month and then mounted them on the bike. These are the cover plates for the frame and my riding boots and pants rub on them more or less constantly during riding. But once other than that small nick put on during bringing the parts home they have not changed since.

This is just one more example of why patience with any sort of paint or gun coatings is a good idea. As far as I know the only finishes that are hard and durable right out of the gate are baked on powder coating once it cools, anodizing on aluminium and steel finishes such as bluing, black oxide, TiN depositions or similar options. If it starts out as a liquid that cures or dries it pays to be patient.
 
I've seen quite a few different threads about guys using fiberglass to stipple the grip area. Tape it off, use a sponge or something like that to dab the area with fiberglass. Let dry and paint over.
 
Think I'm going to make this a winter project, as I can take the time to let cure and decide exactly how I want to do it. Going to test a few ideas on some scrap wood.
 
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