adjusting old Win 94 OEM sites

Highwind

Highwind

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Bruce Peninsula, ON
I have a problem with adjusting my sites. My 94 was probably made in 1955 and purchased in 1956. It's been in the family since then. For some reason the gun shoots way off about 12 inches at 50 yards and I need to move either the front site base or the rear site base. Both are OEM sites and bases. I've tried using G 96 complete gun treatment on the bases; and tried tapping them with a flat screwdriver but neither of them WON"T budge...

Some one had mentioned using brake fluid, saying that it will "eat away" any corrosion so that the bases can be moved.

Any suggestions, as I don't want to damage the area of the site bases.
 
No screw driver. Brass punch and hammer will do less damage to the metal of the sights. May require quite a sharp smack with the rifle properly supported. Sight pushers work fine for ramped front sights, not for rear sight. I don't like my front sight off center so prefer to move the rear. What's your preference?
 
I would mover either the front or rear base, it doesn't really matter to me... I do have some diesel fuel conditioner, and could give that a try. Which way should I move the base to move the site to get the bullet to move in a given direction?.
 
Highwind said:
I would mover either the front or rear base, it doesn't really matter to me... I do have some diesel fuel conditioner, and could give that a try. Which way should I move the base to move the site to get the bullet to move in a given direction?.
Click to expand...

If your moving the rear sight, move in the direction you want the bullet impact to go. Front sight is the opposite, move in the opposite direction to change bullet impact.(eg. impact to move left, move rear sight left, front sight to the right).
 
I'd assume that you are clamping the barrel in a big heavy bench vise using firm but non marring padding? If you're trying to do this hand held or with the rifle just loose in a stand or similar then it's going to kick around too much and absorb much of the impact. You need to block the barrel so it is firmly supported by something that won't give. Even if it's just having someone hold the barrel at the dovetail against a hunk of end grain 2x4 to back it so the blows from the BRASS drift punch can properly shock the sight base into moving.

Frankly I can't believe that you would use a hardened steel screwdriver even for a light test tap. There is no question at all that there is a scratch and dent where you had the blade sitting. Besides, the plastic handle absorbs some of the impact from the hammer.

You don't need to go and find an actual brass punch if you're in a pinch. Hardware stores that have a cheezy rack of overpriced metal will have a length of 1/4 inch brass rod. Or you could substitute a length of 3/8 to 1/2 inch aluminium rod. But either to about 4 to 5 inches long and file the end clean and square and you've got your punch.
 
"...my sites..." Sights
"...will "eat away" any corrosion..." Anything that "eats" rust will also eat the bluing. Pre-64 Win 94's were blued vs the current blackening, as I recall.
"...with a flat screwdriver..." Good way to damage a potential collector rifle.
 
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