Adjustments to turret knobs?

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barnacle

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Hello all,
I've been playing with my Leupold Vari-X III 3-10power Tactical scope mounted on my rifle and have been carefully monitoring where my bullets have been landing (shouldn't we all) and how much to adjust my elevation for various ranges.

Since these turret knobs can be loosened with an hex key, am I correct in assuming I can then reset them on their micrometer scale? By that I mean unwind the little hex screw and set the elevation to zero, at least on the turret? Are there problems with this?

Is there a time when shooting when you have a zero at 100 or 200 yards and you then need to come up? That is, if your using the same loads? Atmospheric conditions wouldn't affect it that much, would it?
 
barnacle said:
Hello all,
I've been playing with my Leupold Vari-X III 3-10power Tactical scope mounted on my rifle and have been carefully monitoring where my bullets have been landing (shouldn't we all) and how much to adjust my elevation for various ranges.

Since these turret knobs can be loosened with an hex key, am I correct in assuming I can then reset them on their micrometer scale? By that I mean unwind the little hex screw and set the elevation to zero, at least on the turret? Are there problems with this?

Is there a time when shooting when you have a zero at 100 or 200 yards and you then need to come up? That is, if your using the same loads? Atmospheric conditions wouldn't affect it that much, would it?
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct. Once you find the elevation you want to Zero the scope for and your happy with your windage you would then adjust the turrets to 0 by undoing the hex screw and reseating the Turrets. If you mostly shoot at 200M then zero for 200 and learn what your come ups are from there (or down if coming down to 100 etc).

As far as having to come up or down from 100 or 200 depends on what you are doing. If your varmint hunting you can get away with using hold over. If your going from a 200M zero to shooting target at 300M or more then you would definitely want to adjust the elevation.
 
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barnacle: I compete with the Mark4 knobs (single hexkey set screw) and I have had success zeroing for 100m. Then we (at Operational Shooting Assoc) teach you to 'slip your scales' by loosening the hex key(s) allen screw(s) and dialing the scale to ZERO. Tighten up your set screw(s).

Now when we shoot at 200m, then I (from experience and recording in my sniper notebook) will dial in the 200m appropriate index/setting and then shoot. Most if not all the time, my setting will place in inside the bull or maybe the inner ring (4 points) for the most part.

After my practice or shoot at that 200m mound, I will then record the 'final index / setting' found on that target turret.

Personally, I prefer the Mark4 M1 knobs (taller and hence, likely to catch kit/objects) since I can read them without using my reading glasses (I'm too old to deploy to Azkrakistan). LOL

Discover what works for you , then share it with the rest of the forum !!

Barney :evil:
 
What Hungry said. Once you've run w/ zeroed knobs, you'll wonder why you waited so long. The other habit it pays to get into, is to return your turrets to your 100m zero when you are through shooting for the day. That way, each time you deploy the rifle, you will know where you are starting from. Put a butler creek scope cover on your scope, and put a label on the inside of the cap with your come ups data on it. You'll pretty quickly start to remember how much you need to come up for distances that you often shoot at, but it's really nice to be able to slide the rifle out of the case, range a target, quickly check your data, crank your knob, and make the crow disappear in a cloud of feathers...
 
mpwolf 's advice is great. I write down my 200m, 300m 400m, 500m, 600m, 700m and 800m settings on a strip of masking tape. Then this tape is secured on the rear Butler Creek scope cover. Never rubs off, never washes off in the rain or abraded off by your tac vest when carrying your rig in the field. More advice...

After shooting a match at 800m, I'll immediately consult my notebook and deliberately ensure all my knobs are returned to zero on my turret (my 100m zero) for elev and windage. At ranges of 600m and 800m, my Mark4 M1 turrets (15 moa per revolution) will be on their FIRST revolution plus a few MOA. So, I'm deliberately counting the revolution to get down to my 100m zero.

Now, when I get home, I pull open my notebook and doubly verify that I'm looking at my 100m zero and index is set to '0', by counting the hash lines beneath (have a look at YOUR Leupold NOW) the turret knob. You will see the elevation knob will have a few hash marks visible. They are staring directly back at you.

My turret will reveal a "Left Right Left" hash mark pattern. Look at the rear of YOUR elevation turret NOW. Do you see a pattern in the L R L R hash marks ? Good ! Record that pattern in your sniper notebook beside your 100m zero.

Now have another look at the REAR of your windage knob... Yup, the same hash marks, except they are in some sort of Down - up - down - up pattern. Record this pattern (hand draw it if you wish) to always guarantee that you have returned your windage knob back to it's 100m zero.


If you don't have a sniper notebook, consider making one.... My next thread today. I'm on holidays right now so I've got time to put some advice together on how to create yer own sniper notebook and still maintain LCV (look cool value). :evil:

Hope this helps...

Barney
 
:D Thank you both.

I do have the makings of a book. My first rifle (a scoped .303) can't compare to my current rig and I absolutely hated it's wandering zero. Maybe here....no. Maybe we're here today.....no. Argh! For that reason alone I wanted to chart come ups simply because I now am capable.:rockOn:

Hungry:
I do see the markings you've described and have seen log pages where you can add your own hatchings/L R L lines to it. It's a nice visual to refer to.

I need to ask a question however. If I have the micrometer/hatching marks on the elevation turret (round cylinder of steel that is still part of the scope?) are at "0" for lets say, a 100m zero, would it still be necessary to draw a picture if I use only intend to use one load? Wouldn't also then the rear of the windage knob (facing me as if shooting) also read "0"?
 
If there are ANY hash marks visible, record it TEN times so you will be able to make sure "I think this is the right mark" really is. After you spend a day dialing all over that scope, the last thing you will remember is where that 100yd/m zero is. Once reset in the wrong place, the next outing will be spent burning up a bit of powder in disgust and confusion.

PLEASE NOTE: I HAVE NOT DONE THIS MORE THEN FIVE TIMES AND ONLY SCREWED UP ONE MATCH. THE REST ARE VILE RUMOURS ;-)

That's how I know....

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
If there are ANY hash marks visible, record it TEN times so you will be able to make sure "I think this is the right mark" really is. After you spend a day dialing all over that scope, the last thing you will remember is where that 100yd/m zero is. Once reset in the wrong place, the next outing will be spent burning up a bit of powder in disgust and confusion.

PLEASE NOTE: I HAVE NOT DONE THIS MORE THEN FIVE TIMES AND ONLY SCREWED UP ONE MATCH. THE REST ARE VILE RUMOURS ;-)

That's how I know....

Jerry
Click to expand...

Good one, that never even crossed my mind as I only go in between 100, 200 and 300M. If going out to 800 or 1000 I am sure it would be a few complete rotations of the Turret.

I had heard the rumors.....but I figured they were just that....rumors :p

Jerry, I was hoping you were coming for the Sierra Match in Kamloops on the last long weekend. I really wanted to see the infamous "Mystic" and "Mystic II". Maybe another time :D

Richard
 
Another good practice is after you spend the day variable range shooting, go back and put a group in @ 100M or 100Y (what ever your zeroed at). This way you confirm before storing.

Same practice after a good cleaning, group @ 100M, then store.

If you don't keep a log, start now! In your log you should keep the numbers for your mechanical zero (count every click from bottom to top on each turret, then divide by 2, thats your mechanical), and also numbers for your actual zero (will be different). This way if something happens and you loose your zero, then you will have a starting point with you.

As you keep your log, record accurately weather (temp, humidity, etc), do the same when you shoot at new locations and include the altitude change. You will start to see how this also affects your zero.

As you do all of this record each time you re-zero, etc. This way you can always go back to what you had before if you re-adjust your turrets.

The more accurate you record this info, the less chance of doing what Mysticplayer has indicated above, (rifle out of bag, first shots of the day horribly off)!
 
Richard, would have loved to go but long weekends are family time so no Sierra shoot, Volks, etc. When the kids get bigger, I will do more for sure.

Frosty Farky is my next shoot so see you there.

Jerry
 
I will post some pics ASAP I made up a very simpe system for my NightForce for under $7 tool are in that price!


Jamie
 
CyaN1de said:
OK...what exactly is a Zero Stop? Post pics soon please.
Click to expand...

A few tactical scope manufactures offer a "Zero Stop" feature.

Goes like this,,,,,

Zero your scope, adjust the elevation turret to your "Zero", then (on NF Scopes) you set some internal set screws inside the turret, or so I'm told, I have not seen the guts of one cause you can't get them in Canada).

Now, your elevation turret will bottom out at your 100M Zero, or where ever you set it.

This feature is so nice cause if you change elevation or are shooting at targets that vary in range, all you have to do it turn it down till it bottoms out, the re-adjust.

EG: Target @ 400M, (adjust and take shot), new target at 200M, dial back to Zero then up to 200M, new target at 600M, dial back to zero then up to 600M etc.

Its very nice tactically cause you can find your zero in the dark or without looking at the turret. Then just count clicks up to your needed elevation, your not guessing which revolution of the turret your on.

End result = less mistakes

Anyone who has used one will in this type of situation will tell you how freakin nice it is to work with.

You can get it on a factory scope in Canada if you want to (or have the financial means) to buy a Schmidt and Bender, also S&B have turrets that have only two full revolutions (colour coded) which is also nice.

US Optics makes an elevation knob that will get you from your Zero to 1000 yards in one revolution (its calibrated to specific loads).

All sorts of goodies out there, just add money!
 
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