AG42/b gas port mod update

chichibabin

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Finally got a finished screw tested! diopter cut this on a bench belt sander using a drill, no fancy equipment needed. With one washer in place, the gun does not cycle with full power 4064 loads (these make less pressure that the higher power loads using e.g. 4831. 4064-varget-4895 speed powders are, to my knowledge, the ones that replicate the swedish military ammo). A second washer (= 1.5-2 turns ccw on the screw = 0.75-1mm vertical difference) plops the cases 5 inches away, with no damage (except extractor marks). If you reload, this is really worth it so you don't beat up your brass, and is 100% reversible with the original screw if desired.

Screw:

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Installed with 2 washers:

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Cases after firing:

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Where did you get the proper screw to work with ? Awesome job , I would like to try this on mine as well . If you have extra prototype set up I would buy some . Or will you share what size and pitch the screw is ?
 
The screws are m4x-0.5, which is a metric fine thread (very hard to find here). I got them from pro bolt USA, it was $50 CAD for 5 with the shipping I believe, might have 2 more extra I can mail out at cost. All that needs to be modified on them it to give them a taper like in the picture so they fit past the narrower unthreaded portion of the gas port (we just kept cutting off threads until we felt no resistance when screwing in), and maybe cut off a bit on the end to make the gun cycle properly.
 
Used toothless needle nose pliers to hold the M4x0.50 screw against the M2.5 hex bit in the cordless drill. Much better than chasing around the screw on the workshop floor if it flies off.

Belt sander was similar to this;
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Belt helps to keep contact with the screw and chatters less than a hard grinder stone.
 
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Used toothless needle nose pliers to hold the M4x0.50 screw against the M2.5 hex bit in the cordless drill. Much better than chasing around the screw on the workshop floor if it flies off.


I'm thinking vies grips and bench grinder . You used a cordless drill on sandpaper to taper the screw?
 
Cordless drill to turn the screw evenly against a vertical belt sander with the needle nose pliers to hold the screw onto the hex bit. Cannot do it evenly if screw does not rotate evenly as if on a lathe, for which I do not have access.
 
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I would suggest not removing too much length (if at all) initially, just try to get it to sort of seat flush or almost (as you saw I have 2 washers) by tapering it, then you can try firing it and adjusting the screw to make the gun cycle gently (there is a big difference in no cycle/cycle even with 2 turns as I found out). After you find a point you like it's probably better to just add more washers until it is snug, instead of cutting the screw, since you can always adjust in the future for other loads that way. I had no problems getting the screw out, but someone else mentionned stripping theirs: you do have to be very careful, it is a very narrow shallow screw head, but if you own a mosin-nagant screwdriver tool it fits the screw perfectly and mine came out no problem that way. The screw is also lightly peened in place, you can just lightly undo that and it should come out.
 
Hey , hoping Chichibabin picks this up . I got my screw mod done too . I ended up getting a tap to make a locknut . It's working nice
Thanks again for the help here and in private . Got a question about your brass life now with your mod done how is it . I had brass that I had only fired 3x,s before mod and have a case head seperation . I only caught it because I found the brass with no case head on it , thankfully it didn't seperate in the chamber . I'm just starting on new brass with the mod done hoping to get better brass life now but would like to hear someone getting 6-7- firings or more ? I'm going to try 5 brass fire it 3 xs and then do the 4th and hopefully 5th firing one shell in the mag at a time and check brass with my pick for signs . Any other suggestions ? Comments ?
 
There are gonna be a lot of variables to determine brass life. I have shot a few cases at least 6 times, so that's definitely possible. Most of them I have only shot once so far since I have 100. 3 firings is really low so something might be wrong. Mod only fixes case necks getting destroyed.

- brass manufacturer: the ones I shot 6 times were winchester for what it's worth. The rest of my cases are Norma which are also quite good. Federal are known to be crap. Remington I think are fine. That said, one of my Norma cases (once fired) cracked after only one shot by me (so 2 total), but in an m96. Defects do happen.

-rifle chamber: While in general semi automatics are known for generous chambers, I have found it quite easy to resize my brass from this rifle, and they don't grow too much with each sizing. Other rifles may have more generous chambers and stretch the brass more, reducing life. I measured my cases, and they started at 2.135 and 2.1365 and ended at 2.1435 and 2.144 respectively after full length sizing, so growing . While this is significant growth, it is quite reasonable, whereas, for example, my 7.5x54 MAS cases will grow 0.02" if full length resized.!

-load: full power loads will stress the brass more, especially "newer" loads with powders in the 4831 speed class, which will generate higher pressures for longer in 6.5x55 compared to 4064/4895/varget

-resizing aggressiveness: neck sizing tends to preserve brass life, but is inadvisable in a semi auto. You can size some rounds by partially pushing back the shoulder (i.e. unscrew the sizing die a bit), and see if they feed easily, this will help preserve brass life at the cost of reliability. I always full length resize for semi autos.

-less likely : defective shell plate or die which is pushing shoulder back excessively

It is important to check all rifle cases for incipient case head separation before loading them. This is easily done by straightening out a paperclip and making a slight hook in the end, then running it up and down the inside of the case to feel for a ledge or a burr (basically where your cases failed, you are looking for a "step" that indicates the brass there has thinned). CHS is not a big deal in bolt actions, but can send gas (and other stuff) flying into you in semi-autos, so it is especially important to check.

Since you only had one case separate (I assume), check all other fired cases for cracks on the outside, and for this step on the inside. If not present, it may have been a brass defect. If there, it is almost certainly one or more of the factors above. If chamber size/headspace is excessive, you will want to get that looked that, if it is just "generous", then the best thing to do would be bumping the shoulder less.
 
Thank you for the info and agreed on all points . I was thinking that the mod should help the brass stretching so much as well as preventing the dented necks by not cycling as fast . It does help in finding the brass and seems like it should be easier on the rifle as well . I also measure my brass after firing and will now post if I find that they grow less with the gas set back and what I find on brass condition , I'm using new ppu brass . This is the most fun I've had experimenting for a while . Wouldn't have done it without you.
 
Bumped this up for a guy showing interest
And my brass life is better , to cold now to post my test that is in progress , up to four firings on my 5 test brass
 
I used the round mosin screwdriver, if you don't have one you need a very thin screwdriver bit. Do not force if you have the wrong size, you WILL strip it.
 
I have a bit assortment which one of fit perfectly , and I had to use a dremel with a Zip disk to carefully remove the pins/stakes holding the original screw in . Mine was pinned at each end of the screw slot so the Zip disk worked , if pinned in a different spot on the screw some other bit might work
 
A little known fact to many, basically because they don't measure it, is that North American 6x5x55 brass is not manufactured to the correct size in the solid head part of the case. They are too small (.470") because the U.S. manufacturers use the 308-30-06 head size as the basis for their manufacture. The Norma, PPU, and Lapua cases are manufactured to the correct specs (.479"), and therefore should last longer.
The smaller North American made cases will expand more ahead of the solid portion of the case head when fired (because they are under spec), which thins the case in this area when the brass stretches. When run through the sizing die, it forces the brass ahead of the solid head area forward, making that thinned area even thinner. After a few firings and sizings, the head separates. Go with proper spec brass, and reasonable loads, and case life should be better through the AG42b.
 
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