aluminum v block or pillar bedding

stubblejumper

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After reading the thread on cheap plastic stocks,I am curious to know everyones opinion on the best bedding methods.How do you feel about the aluminum v blocks that have become more and more common?How about pillar bedding?Some people are skim bedding the stocks with the aluminum v blocks,how do you feel about that?
 
I have a Millennium action in a HHE aluminum rifle stock. It is a modified V Block design with Adiprene strips. This is called the Flexibed system and works very well for this Action/stock conbination.
h ttp://home.xtra.co.nz/hosts/hhe/frameenglish.htm
 
I bed the V blocked stocks, loosen your bottom metal screws 1/2 turn and the reason becomes instantly apparent. The "bedding" V blocks touch only a small fraction of the actions surface and the recoil lugs have lots of room fore and aft, making the bottom metal screws the primary recoil absorbing devices if the recoil lug is not set up against the bedding block.
I get quite a few rifles where the action screws are bent from rifles being shot with the screws loose.
Piller bedding non V blocked stocks is the only answer in my opinion.
 
My hunting rifles are all equipped with pillar bedded mcmillans,but I am going to give the factory stock on the 700-5R a try.If it doesn't perform well,it will be bedded.
 
I first tried an aluminum "V" block bedding system on a Remington 40x in about 1977. It worked reasonably well but not as well as the glass bedded stock which followed. I have built a few rifles with machined aluminum blocks over the years and they worked well. These were all glass bedded over the aluminum, however.
I'm not a huge fan of the aluminum pillar except in certain cases. Mostly, I consider glass pillars to be as good or better.
The material used for the stock itself has much to do with the bedding system used. A plastic stock with the aluminum block molded right into it seems like a pretty good system. At least you can bed the aluminum. Fiberglass stocks with a good, solid action section don't require or benefit from aluminum pillars or blocks.
I once bedded a Shilen DGA action on a pair of 1 1/8" steel pillars. The pillars fit beautifully and I had high hopes for the system but it wasn't that great. I ended up dumping the pillars and gluing it in and it worked fine.
My preference is to pour glass pillars in any wood stock or any glass stock which is insubstantial in the action area. I like to use aluminum or steel where the surface is limited (Mauser tang). Regards, Bill
 
sorry to butt in

Gentlemen,
I don't have an opinion but I do have a question.
Can you recommend a text or two or a website which clearly and completely explains how to glass or pillar bed a rifle.
I have looked online and found several sets of directions, all semingly incomplete.
thanks
 
Gentlemen,
I don't have an opinion but I do have a question.
Can you recommend a text or two or a website which clearly and completely explains how to glass or pillar bed a rifle.
I have looked online and found several sets of directions, all semingly incomplete.
thanks

I printed out this one as well as a few others that I found online and read them as I was going through the process.

http://www.ranchtrippin.com/bedding/
 
Bedding practice. First, bed your Cooey and then start working up.

I use spray on mold release as a release agent.

Don't bed a Lee Enfiled until you have a lot of experience. They are different.

I use plastercine to plug holes and action cuts I don't want to fill with epoxy.
 
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