am i on the right track?

wayupnorth

wayupnorth

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Northern Alberta
decided last year i was going to get off the fence and start reloading.

picked up a couple books to read on the subject and have been slogging through them.

picked up some stuff:
Hornady Press (lock and load kit)

Lock-N-Load Classic single stage press
Lock-N-Load Powder Measure
Digital Scale
Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
Primer Catcher
Positive Priming System
Handheld Priming Tool
Universal Reloading Block
Chamfering and Deburing Tool
Powder Trickler and Funnel
One Shot Case Lube
Vintage tin signThree Lock-N-Load Die Bushings
Sure-Loc Lock Ring 6 Pack
Powder Measure Stand
Shellholder Pack 1,2,5,16,35


Dies for the calibers i want to reload (rifles only so far)
ultra sonic cleaner - was a present from my dad

just want to check, i think im still missing a few things i may need.
1) bullet puller
2) pad to roll brass on before resizing and the lube for it

i think that is everything i need to start into this.
big question is this, i was in the LGS the other day and they have a wall of powder.
where do i start?
i understand with the bullets what to pick for what i want and test and such but there are soooooooooooo many powders!

do i just randomly grab a rifle powder and try it, then grab another and rinse repeat??
or is there a powder that is considered the "plain jane industry standard" that i should be starting with?

also, i know i need different powders for rifle vs pistols but what about magnum loads for both rifle and pistol?
i ask because i have a 300WSM im loading for.
do i need a special powder for that?

on the same lines after i get the rifles going i have 3 pistols i want to load for that are 'big'
10mm, 460Rowland and S&W 460 Magnum.
do i just use normal powders for those or do should i be looking at some special stuff?

thanks for the help!

im hoping to start rolling here in the next week or 2 so i can have a bunch of test loads ready for when the nicer weather comes and my new chrony gets here.
gives me about a month to get up and going.
 
I'd scrap the lube pad and go with s lanolin/isopropyl mixture. Much better.
Try hodgdon reloading center,good info there,
And,even though you don't need it, a case prep center,such as, Frankfurt arsenal, is a big plus.
Chamfering and deburring, with that hand tool,sucks.

Some bullit manufacturers have data, and they list ,the best powder,for the bullit.
 
For the 300 WSM I'd start with H4350. Its common, consistent, less temperature sensitive than some, works
well across the bullet weight spectrum and could easily be the only powder you need for it. Work up and don't be too shocked if you have to quit before the book max. I'd start with 180s, and with any luck end there too.
 
4350 is a good start for powder. You will find that over time when you add calibers you will also add different powders of different brands. I myself have always been an IMR fan because that is what I started with when I was thirteen years old. I use winchester powders for handgun loads.
 
You won't need a pad for lubing cases as you have the one shot case lube. Newspaper will do.
For any given bullet weight the reloading manual will show a few powders that give the highest velocity.
These will usually be slower burning powders.In general slow powders work better with heavy charges and heavier bullets.
This applies to to pistol and rifle cartriges alike.
H4350 is a good powder for larger cases .
 
Hornady Unique or Imperial Sizing Wax. It will last you years if you're loading rifle.
If you were bulk reloading with a case feeder I would have said liquid lanolin and isopropyl alcohol.

To pull rifle bullets I would go with a press mounted cam style puller like the one from Hornady with the required collets.
 
My buddy has the rcbs ,press mounted , puller.
He got it with the .30 collet.
It works for .223 ,6.5 and .284 as well.
Only prob is,it leaves a slight ring,around the bullits.
 
Digital or dial caliper, case trimmer. I also have a magnifying glass, light grit sanding block (I roll a chamferred case mouth over it just in case there are any burrs), primer pocket cleaning kit (L/S) and case mouth brushes (nylon not copper or brass). I use the Lyman Kinetic Bullet Puller personally.
Definitely a stuck case remover kit of some kind.
The Lyman series of reloading manuals are also good for beginners.
 
I would highly recommend a Forster case trimmer. I have one and it works great. A VLD chamfer is a good thing too. The Forster trimmer allows you to buy extra attachment down the road for it that are useful for case prep once you get your loads down.
 
I second the GOOD dial gauge caliper.......I tried digital but every time I'd go to use it the F**cking battery was dead.........Good dial gauge all the way, battery never goes dead and if you care for it it'll will give you a lifetime of accurate measuring, very important in reloading.
 
I would also buy another manual. It's always nice to have two or more references. The Lyman manual always lists a couple powders that are optimum for each cartridge. I also like the Lee manuals.
 
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