You are correct, I won't be able to get it fixed under warranty. I bought it in new unfired condition but the original owner had it for a few years. I'm not upset as I did get a good deal, I am a little annoyed that at the price these rifles are that they would have issues like this. I will shoot it for now but order an L&R lock from TOTW soon. Other than the fact it likes to eat flints the rifle functions and shoots very well.
#### and Frizzen alignment
- Thread starter maliboy67
- Start date
Regardless, I would take it to Shooters Choice in K-W and plead for consideration as it is clearly a manufacturing fault and nothing done by an owner. They might at least replace the lock out of good will.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
It looks a bit out but I think it's still serviceable.
If you are considering a new lock anyway it might be worth finding someone who has experience tuning locks or is good with metal and try bending the #### over a little. It needs a slight sideways S shaped bend to keep everything square.
Wost that happens is that you need the new lock you were going to get anyway.
If you are considering a new lock anyway it might be worth finding someone who has experience tuning locks or is good with metal and try bending the #### over a little. It needs a slight sideways S shaped bend to keep everything square.
Wost that happens is that you need the new lock you were going to get anyway.
The funny thing is it functions very well, just wears out flints like crazy! Also requires a bit of fiddling around to get things lined up, the good thing is I'm learning the hard way and it should only get better from here. My next acquisition will be a smooth bore, perhaps a .62?
- Location
- vancouver island
You might try a smaller flint as well- perhaps a 5/8". It's a waaay cheaper way to go if it works. Otherwise looks like the #### needs a tweak to the outside - easy to do.
I realize the flint in the picture my be on a slight angle but it is the correct size, if I go with a smaller flint it will be harder to mount due to the offset. There will be less flint surface for the vice to grab due to the poor alignment, if you have an easy fix please explain how to do it. I'm all for fixing and saving my money for other things.
- Location
- vancouver island
My thought is that the smaller flint will not overhang the jaws as much to the outside and still line up with the barrel flat on the inside. The #### can be gently bent outward using a propane torch or oxy-acetylene -hold the #### in a vise and heat #### in mid shaft to soft red and gently lever out either with lock jaw pliers or similar. Not much movement is needed, perhaps only 1/4 ". Can be rehardened later if needed but I have never found it necessary. Should work to get you shooting again. For info I use sheet lead to wrap around my flints to mount them- have used a well flattened ball when sheet was not available. Cheers
Thanks for the explanation, I will work on it this week. I assume I need to bend the #### above the spot where it rests against the lock plate as to not affect the stop position. as far as removing the #### from the shaft, do I just remove the outside screw and work the #### loose off of the shaft? I do use lead around the flints.
That might work.
But it might be necessary to strip the lock, and use a punch in the hole for the retaining screw and drive the tumbler out of the ####. Support the lockplate when doing this. Removing the mainspring should be done with a mainspring vise.
I don't know that the #### could be doglegged enough in the space between the stop shoulder and the bottom jaw to align the jaws with the frizzen.
But it might be necessary to strip the lock, and use a punch in the hole for the retaining screw and drive the tumbler out of the ####. Support the lockplate when doing this. Removing the mainspring should be done with a mainspring vise.
I don't know that the #### could be doglegged enough in the space between the stop shoulder and the bottom jaw to align the jaws with the frizzen.
Thanks, I kind of wondered if I would have to take the lock apart. I am also wondering how much I will be able to move the vice, there is not much distance between the stop shoulder and the bottom jaw. Depending on how much of a pain it is to deal with I might stick to my original plan and order an L&R lock eventually. I have inquired about replacement parts so I'm waiting for a response at this point. Although the parts will cost almost as much as a new lock, Pedersoli parts prices are dear!
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
definitely strip the lock before you do this. You don't want that much heat that close to everything else. You probably want oxy/acetylene, I don't think you'll get as much heat as you'd like to make the fairly aggressive bends your going to need.
I think your better off saving up for the L&R. This one shoots for now.
I think your better off saving up for the L&R. This one shoots for now.
I contacted VTI, they sell all the replacement parts for the frontier rifle as well as have a gunsmith service. They told me all the replacement locks in stock have the same off set with the frizzen and ####. Their advice was if the gun function OK then use it, if it doesn't then replace the lock. Mine works so I will leave it alone and keep installing the flints as Mooncoon suggests. Thanks all for the help, it has been a learning experience.
- Location
- vancouver island
Just a final note on all this. The #### needs to be taken off the lock by removing the one screw. This way no heat gets anywhere near the rest of the lock or gun. Many locks have the stop in the tumbler so the external stop is less important. Mooncoon is right on other info on the flint and I would add-the tip of the flint should end up pointing directly at the touch hole in the fired position, this being the most efficient in producing good touch-off.
