Annealing question

TSPIRI

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I've read that some belted magnums after only a couple of firings can split way down near the belt. I was reading that for longer case life should I stop using a fl die and just bump the neck. This would avoid stressing the brass and work hardening the case body. Some say annealing would help prevent this but most annealing machines will only address the case neck. Should I bust out my propane torch and try manually annealing lower or am I over thinking this.
 
Never anneal the case head of your brass, it must remain hard. More common than case cracking ahead of the belt, is a bulge that is caused, not resolved, by full length resizing, and prevents the case from chambering in your rifle. To resolve this problem, purchase a Larry Willis belted magnum sizing die. This is the only die that will iron out the bulge ahead of the belt created by brass flow from full length resizing, piling up in front of the belt. The opposite end of the die provides a handy gauge to determine if your brass is affected.
 
I read your post a few times and it looks like you’re trying to solve problem you dont even have.

First off, step away from the propane torch. If you anneal the case head area you’re either going to be in a world of hurt or have a cool story to tell. Don’t do it. Dont even think about it.

The best way to handle belted cases is to pretend it doesn’t even have one. Shoot your factory ammo, or loads put up in new cases. For the intial setting of the FL die screw it in until it touches the shell-holder, then back it off a half to a full turn. That will eliminate touching the shoulder at all. Size a few and test chamber them. If they chamber without trouble load them up. Continue loading and shooting until such a time that the cases dont chamber easily. That day might never come, depending on how hot you load. If you get the urge to mess with the die, fight it off. Go weight sort some primers, or distract yourself with some other problem you don’t have. Just leave it alone.

Lets pretend that after nth firing and resizing that you detect a little more effort than you want dropping the bolt handle. Now start screwing the die in with tiny adjustments until the bolt closes easily or with just a hint of resistance. Your choice, its your gun. You can take the striker assembly out for more feel if you want, but I seldom bother. Lock the ring down and you’re done.

Thats basically the way I for all bottle neck cartridges that i dont have Competition shellholders for. The minimally sized case will keep the casehead tight enough against the boltface that the case has practically nowhere to stretch.
 
Get a Hornady headspace gauge and bump the shoulder .002" on a fire formed case. The Redding competition shell holder kits work really good for adjusting in .002 increments
 
Ok thanks for the advice I'll look into just neck sizing the brass. And yes I'm looking for a solution to a problem I don't yet have and might never have. Part of my problem is not knowing any experienced reloaders to bounce questions off of. So I'm trying to teach myself through what I read and YouTube. I watch multiple videos on the same topics and I kind of average out what I'm seeing with what I've read.
 
I read your post a few times and it looks like you’re trying to solve problem you dont even have.

First off, step away from the propane torch. If you anneal the case head area you’re either going to be in a world of hurt or have a cool story to tell. Don’t do it. Dont even think about it.

The best way to handle belted cases is to pretend it doesn’t even have one. Shoot your factory ammo, or loads put up in new cases. For the intial setting of the FL die screw it in until it touches the shell-holder, then back it off a half to a full turn. That will eliminate touching the shoulder at all. Size a few and test chamber them. If they chamber without trouble load them up. Continue loading and shooting until such a time that the cases dont chamber easily. That day might never come, depending on how hot you load. If you get the urge to mess with the die, fight it off. Go weight sort some primers, or distract yourself with some other problem you don’t have. Just leave it alone.

Lets pretend that after nth firing and resizing that you detect a little more effort than you want dropping the bolt handle. Now start screwing the die in with tiny adjustments until the bolt closes easily or with just a hint of resistance. Your choice, its your gun. You can take the striker assembly out for more feel if you want, but I seldom bother. Lock the ring down and you’re done.

Thats basically the way I for all bottle neck cartridges that i dont have Competition shellholders for. The minimally sized case will keep the casehead tight enough against the boltface that the case has practically nowhere to stretch.

I own 4 standard belted mag cartridges that i've been loading for over 35 yrs . I have encountered most of the problems that belted mag present. This info posted by dogleg is spot on, could not have been said any better.
 
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