Annealing
- Thread starter roberti11
- Start date
It goes on like a thick white liquid, which quickly dries, then it melts to clear when it reaches a predetermined temperature......you can buy it in different temps.......ya paint a line or dot of it under shoulder on case, then heat neck until it melts....just a tool to control annealing temperature.....
Thanks Dmay! At first I was thinking ... err hoping that it was some new way to anneal without the flame!
So do you use it on all the cases or just a few till you get a feel for the time and colour required to anneal?
Fudd
So do you use it on all the cases or just a few till you get a feel for the time and colour required to anneal?
Fudd
"...without the flame!..." Annealing requires heat. Doesn't really require much temperature control. Just heat the neck and shoulder until the brass changes colour and tip the case into the water. The only on going cost involved is the propane cylinder.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
You poor man. Been there, now use the crayon instead. That liq leaves a nasty crud on the case. Lots of steel wool. Tumbling didn't touch it.
The crayon just goes puff leaving next to no residue. Love the stuff.
Jerry
The crayon just goes puff leaving next to no residue. Love the stuff.
Jerry
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Just rub some crayon on the case about 1/8" below the shoulder. 1/4" smear is plenty. Heat the neck in a propane flame evenly. I now use 2 flames but used to turn the case while holding in one flame. You will see the case colour change/darken then the crayon will go puff. That's it.
If you want more of the case body annealed, then just put the crayon mark lower but this may mean that the case neck gets too hot.
Avoid heating enough so the brass turns black. That is too hot and usually means the brass is now too soft. The colour should darken but not look blackened.
I like to put the cases in the tumbler to get the necks clean before annealing. Don't think it will change the process much but it allows you to see the colour change easier.
I use the 650F which seems to work out just fine. After annealing, I body bump, tumble again, then neck size. You can definitely feel how much smoother seating is.
Enjoy...
Jerry
If you want more of the case body annealed, then just put the crayon mark lower but this may mean that the case neck gets too hot.
Avoid heating enough so the brass turns black. That is too hot and usually means the brass is now too soft. The colour should darken but not look blackened.
I like to put the cases in the tumbler to get the necks clean before annealing. Don't think it will change the process much but it allows you to see the colour change easier.
I use the 650F which seems to work out just fine. After annealing, I body bump, tumble again, then neck size. You can definitely feel how much smoother seating is.
Enjoy...
Jerry
this is off of 6mmbr.com and i'm sure has been posted before.
The critical time and temperature at which the grain structure reforms into something suitable for case necks is 662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes. A higher temperature, say from 750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds. If brass is allowed to reach temperatures higher than this (regardless of the time), it will be made irretrievably and irrevocably too soft.
Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft.
I use it on every case....just a dot usually....but really don't have to as long as the case speed stays constant, and the flame.....
Got mine in an annealing kit that Hornady (or somebody) sold years back with some holders for different size brass....I think its 475 F.....have to check.....remember, the temp will be higher on the neck where the flame is than behind the shoulder....
So guys help me here...
The Tempilstik I have (both) are way to hard to leave a mark on a smooth brass case, do you hold them on the case as you heat? or mark the case ahead of time?
If this is the case, then I must have gotten markers that are defective, because mine will not mark the case, the marker is way to hard
Thanks
