Another Bedding Question?
- Thread starter mikeelliot
- Start date
Parker-Hale Mike
CGN Regular
- Location
- Beautiful Victoria
Don't get that stuff, try Devcon Steel epoxy....way better. You can buy it at Industrial plastics and paint.
Just to confuse the issue a bit more. I use Devcon 10110 Steel Putty and J-B weld also. As release agent, I have used both Kiwi clear shoe polish and Pam.
The point is, Acra-Gel works great, but don't feel that you are restricted to it. Especially if you have to "order" from out of town. J-B Weld is awesome and available in most hardware stores. I spray Pam over the action and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Get some plasticine too.
The point is, Acra-Gel works great, but don't feel that you are restricted to it. Especially if you have to "order" from out of town. J-B Weld is awesome and available in most hardware stores. I spray Pam over the action and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Get some plasticine too.
How many rifles the kits will do is entirely up to you on how much of the action you're going to bed, or if you're planning on bedding the barrel channel as well. If your going to pillar bed as well, then you probably don't have to bed the whole action, etc, etc. bearhunter
"...planning on bedding the barrel channel as well..." The barrrel channel does not get bedded. Ever. If any bedding gets put into the barrel channel, its only as a wee pressure point about an inch aft of the end of the forestock And you glass bed or pillar bed, not both. It's two different things.
Sunray, why would you not pillar bed and glass bed as well? Often a first shot flyer comes off of a synthetic stock rifle that is pillar bedded. Glass bedding has cured a pillared rifle that I recently did. Glass bedding takes into action the seating of the recoil lug, fore and aft which pillars don't address.
On the barrel channel issue, I think that what he said might have been a typo (at least I hope so). I just read an article which discusses mouting a length of keystock within the lenght of the barrel channel to stiffen it. Bedding compound is then poured in and around the keystock to secure and add further stiffness to the forend. I haven't tried this yet, but I do have rifle in mind (synthetic stock) for it. I was linked to the article not that long ago by a fellow CGN'er.
http://www.savageshooters.com/Pages/SynthStockMods.html
On the barrel channel issue, I think that what he said might have been a typo (at least I hope so). I just read an article which discusses mouting a length of keystock within the lenght of the barrel channel to stiffen it. Bedding compound is then poured in and around the keystock to secure and add further stiffness to the forend. I haven't tried this yet, but I do have rifle in mind (synthetic stock) for it. I was linked to the article not that long ago by a fellow CGN'er.
http://www.savageshooters.com/Pages/SynthStockMods.html
sunray said:
Full length bedding the barrel channel is a well-recognized method for bedding rifles with very light barrel contours. I have several that shoot well under an inch bedded that way that were not even close to that, prior to bedding.
As well, without exception, every benchrest shooter I know, first pillar beds and then glass beds the receiver, to achieve best accuracy. This has been the norm in the BR game for quite a few years now.
Ted
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Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Mike, no shortage of ways to do this. Assume you are talking your Savage here.
Don't bother with the expensive kits. You can do better for way less money.
The savage already has the pillars in the stock. If putting pillars in a stock, do it first as Ted mentioned above. The bedding takes care of all the support/alignment that might not be perfect with the pillars.
For bedding, I use the Lepages two syringe epoxy steel available just about anywhere. Works great, relatively cheap and enough for up to 3 Savage beddings out of one tube - about $2 to 3 per rifle in goop. Some batches are a royal pain to squeeze out.
Only downside, this stuff will cure in 10 mins. Plenty of time for me as I get everything masked and lined up. All I do is mix, throw into the stock, put the action in and tighten down - takes about 2 mins.
In 1 hour, you can pop it apart and clean up. I still let it cure assembled overnight just to make sure nothing moves. Use the instructions I gave you last time.
With the Savage and most molded stocks, there is little point in trying to bed the hollow forend. Just free float everything with a significant gap around the barrel and leave as it.
Full barrel bedding works only if the stock will never move. Any changes in the stock dimensions or alignment will change barrel harmonics and POA relative to the scope. Big reason this method has fallen out of favor with light sporting barrels.
Works great on heavy barrels or big recoil African rifles as there is little chance of anything moving or distance to target is so close that any change is moot.
Jerry
Don't bother with the expensive kits. You can do better for way less money.
The savage already has the pillars in the stock. If putting pillars in a stock, do it first as Ted mentioned above. The bedding takes care of all the support/alignment that might not be perfect with the pillars.
For bedding, I use the Lepages two syringe epoxy steel available just about anywhere. Works great, relatively cheap and enough for up to 3 Savage beddings out of one tube - about $2 to 3 per rifle in goop. Some batches are a royal pain to squeeze out.
Only downside, this stuff will cure in 10 mins. Plenty of time for me as I get everything masked and lined up. All I do is mix, throw into the stock, put the action in and tighten down - takes about 2 mins.
In 1 hour, you can pop it apart and clean up. I still let it cure assembled overnight just to make sure nothing moves. Use the instructions I gave you last time.
With the Savage and most molded stocks, there is little point in trying to bed the hollow forend. Just free float everything with a significant gap around the barrel and leave as it.
Full barrel bedding works only if the stock will never move. Any changes in the stock dimensions or alignment will change barrel harmonics and POA relative to the scope. Big reason this method has fallen out of favor with light sporting barrels.
Works great on heavy barrels or big recoil African rifles as there is little chance of anything moving or distance to target is so close that any change is moot.
Jerry
Big JD-From the hills
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan.
The kit will do a few rifles, depending on how much you mix up each time, and how much you use. I have used epoxy and paste wax for bedding a rifle recently, and am happy with results, the pastewax worked wonderfully as a relese agent. It would be nice to have someone do tensile strength and shirinkage of different epoxy's ect to see what would be suitable. I used some stuff that was in 2 small cans, and fairly thick, I hope It preforms in the long run, it took a full day to set up, and I let it cure a week, as far as I can tell it is as hard and tough as the acraglass gel kit I had. It would be nice for stores here to carry devcon ect but they don't.
