Not necessarily. For example, my Match rifle has a medium profile target barrel on it.
Another M14 scope mount post
- Thread starter maple_sea
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Not necessarily. For example, my Match rifle has a medium profile target barrel on it.
How it shoots?
guys, really appreciate for all your inputs. But still, besides the weight, what is the really difference between full steel and aluminum body-type with steel attachments? Sounds like if I put locktite on the screws then makes no difference?
Its main body is CNCed from extruded aluminum, which I am quite sure is either 6061-T6 or 6063-T6.
6061-T6 has yield strength of 40,000 psi ~ 45,000 psi
6063-T6 has yield strength of 31,000 psi.
While:
304 stainless steel 30,000 psi.
The common hot rolled steel we see on a 90 degree angle has yield strength of 35,000 psi.
There is no difference when it comes to strength. Ironically, M14, the great Main Battle Rifle, was replaced by aluminum M16, which is famous for its accuracy.
6061-T6 has yield strength of 40,000 psi ~ 45,000 psi
6063-T6 has yield strength of 31,000 psi.
While:
304 stainless steel 30,000 psi.
The common hot rolled steel we see on a 90 degree angle has yield strength of 35,000 psi.
There is no difference when it comes to strength. Ironically, M14, the great Main Battle Rifle, was replaced by aluminum M16, which is famous for its accuracy.
Nobody who owns both types will agree with that, but go ahead, buy twice and find out for yourself, or just buy a good mount first.
Front is a floating touching point. Just setting on top of the receiver.
It's a steel set screw secured by another set screw. It provides an up-lifting force on the front end of the mount. So the rear dovetail and the front set screw hold the elevation while the side screw secures windage.
They are all like that.
I suspected it might be like that.
If so, stay away from aluminum ones.
Years ago I bought a mount for a Ruger Mini 14 (maybe made by Feather?)
The Ruger one mounts on the wings that originally hold the rear sight. It pivots from there in the middle of the mount, then uses two set screw, one at the front like what you describe, and another at the rear. (No dovetail)
As I tightened up the set screws to lock the mount in place (it also serves as a very coarse elevation adjustment), the aluminum started to bend.
It simply wasnt possible to tighten the mount enough to prevent wiggling with tightening so much as to bend the thing.
I ended up using it as a pattern to make one out of real steel. The concept is fine, but aluminum is crap.
It should be noted that the threads never stripped out, probably because as the mount bent it took any strain of the threads.
Edit. This is the thing I was describing.
http://ww w.floridagunworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=335
If so, stay away from aluminum ones.
Years ago I bought a mount for a Ruger Mini 14 (maybe made by Feather?)
The Ruger one mounts on the wings that originally hold the rear sight. It pivots from there in the middle of the mount, then uses two set screw, one at the front like what you describe, and another at the rear. (No dovetail)
As I tightened up the set screws to lock the mount in place (it also serves as a very coarse elevation adjustment), the aluminum started to bend.
It simply wasnt possible to tighten the mount enough to prevent wiggling with tightening so much as to bend the thing.
I ended up using it as a pattern to make one out of real steel. The concept is fine, but aluminum is crap.
It should be noted that the threads never stripped out, probably because as the mount bent it took any strain of the threads.
Edit. This is the thing I was describing.
http://ww w.floridagunworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=335
Tootall, I remember having that exact mount on my first mini-14 thirty years ago. I struggled with it forever, trying to get it to mount and work properly, unwilling to believe that it was such a total P.O.S. and assuming that I was doing something wrong. I finally took it to the local gunsmith, who tried to mount it and gave up in disgust.
If only we'd known then what we know now, i.e. that aluminum is the high-tensile-strength space-age wundermaterial, far superior to steel in every way, just read the specs and see! These new age shooters have it so good!
John
With all respect I have to point out that's the common mistake.
You shouldn't "tight up" the front screw. The mount is fixed by the other 2 points. The front screw is just there to hold the elevation. That's the reason there is a second screw to secure the first one since the first screw is not "tight".
I don't have a mini 14 so I can't comment on it. But I know a steel mount will also bent if you tight up the set screw. It's because the middle wheel is on the side so any force will "twist" the mount. You can use harden steel and still see the same result - guaranteed.
From all the reading I've done here and on the firing line forums, aluminium mounts = tears and grief sooner rather than later. I had a Norinco m14 for a short period for evaluation and was also supplied with an NC star 3rd gen aluminium mount (similar to the notorious SA effort) which I mounted myself. Unless you've got some super Aluminium fairy dust, aluminium is a rather soft substance, try threading the stuff and tightening a screw in it. The replacement dovetail block and accompanying screws were steel but I had to check them for tightness constantly. So long as I studiously kept all the screws tight it shot all right. Glad I got to try it without wasting my money on it though. Even if someone gave me an aluminium mount I'd be getting rid of it. The steel promag pm081a looks to be the best lower-cost mount available.
