Anschutz 64 action has become stiff.

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I reassembled my bolt and was out with my CIL Anschutz 180 today. After around 50 shots, the action became very, very stiff where it became very difficult to open the bolt. Took the bolt apart and didn't see anything that looked wrong but there was extra grease around one spot on the striker pin where the spring fits over. I can't think of anything that could be put together wrong? Any opinions from Annie experts out there? I don't want to cause undo wear on the bolt and action...
 
Is that the piece they call the cocking knob? The rear action screw was causing problems before, it was coming up slightly far (possibly from stock shrinkage over 50 years) and interfering with the bolt throw, but I've fixed that now.
 
The rear action screw was causing problems before, it was coming up slightly far (possibly from stock shrinkage over 50 years) and interfering with the bolt throw, but I've fixed that now.

I've had this happen as well and was going to suggest you look at the screw.

Is it stiff to close as well or just opening after you have fired it? You indicated that it's stiff opening the bolt, how is the extraction? Does it matter ammunition you are using?
 
It was only stiff on opening. I was shooting some Eley/Aguilla that I normally don't use. I've cleaned and reassembled with a dab of white grease. Will test it out after work and hopefully that fixes it.
 
From the Anschutz North America website...

64 Bolt Lubrication

The 64 bolt has a few key points of lubrication which should be considered to ensure optimal performance.

In the section, three photos will identify the parts and lubrication points.

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Photo 1: This image shows the major bolt components, and the two items of importance for this discussion are the large black striker rod and smaller black firing pin. Both of these items need a light coating of oil at all times to operate properly. The firing pin only needs a very light coating due to minimal weight and contact points.

The striker rod is under much more spring tension and needs a high-quality oil to function correctly.

Note: In older rifles, these parts are polished steel and the same color as the bolt. Newer models have a black coating to prevent rust. It is not a lubricating coating, and like the older bolts, require proper lubrication.

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Photo 2: Oil Point

In Photo 2, you can see the small screw driver pointing at the black striker rod. When the bolt is cocked, apply a few drops of oil to the area where the striker rod passes into the bolt body.

Place a few drops of oil there as well as on the striker rod area which is exposed. You do not need to remove the striker rod and fully oil.

The main shaft of the rod does not contact the inside of the bolt body.

It is very important that a light coating of oil is present at all times in this area.

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Photo 3: Bolt Grease

In Photo 3, you will see a small amount of moly-grease applied to the bolt handle.

This handle also acts as the recoil lug. It is important to keep a small amount of high-quality grease in that area.

It will make the rifle function smoothly and protect the metal surfaces.
 
Thank-you Nordic for the information. Also, are the newer style striker rod & firing pins available from you? Is there any advantage in going to the newer style striker & firing pin?
 
Okay thanks, I added that swept bolt to the CIL 180 and had the barrel shortened to 18.5" and recrowned (apparently the CIL barrels were not choked near muzzle so no worries), added Vortex Diamondback 2-7x35 scope. On to do list will be an adjustable cheek riser and glass bed the action. It will be my "Cheapo 64 MPR", so far so good... maybe I will post pictures when it is done.
 
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