Anti-Cant devices that actually work....?

jonyork

jonyork

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Hey Guys,

Looking for a way to set up my scope to be level with the gun, and ensure my shots in the field are as level as possible. I was looking at some anti-cant devices, and honestly, the ones I do find (fit around scope) seem flawed, because well, how does it anchor to your gun to ensure it is level with the gun?

Thanks for all the help/advice and do our sponsors carry some?
 
1- your scope should be mounted level on your rifle
2- once the scope is level you mount the anti cant to the level scope, doesn't get much simpler than that
 
First the rifle has to be level, than be sure the scope is installed level. place you anti cant device on your scope so it shows level. Anti cant shows you in the field the cant on your rifle/scope. not intended to be a level for installation of scope.
 
1) the scope needs to be perfectly plumb/ level with the bore - COMPLETE HORSE SH!T, as long as your not ridiculously retarded about being able to eye something up level and plumb over a 2" span the difference that will be made in your shooting is less then the MOA the gun will actually shoot , so unless your anal retentive and shooting a true 1/4minute or less gun it doesn't matter

2) put the gun in a gun vice, hang a plumb bob , at a reasonable distance so you can fous your scope on it. line your virtical x-hairs up with the string, then install scope level, so well its level, done deal
 
ultimate_monkey said:
1) the scope needs to be perfectly plumb/ level with the bore - COMPLETE HORSE SH!T, as long as your not ridiculously retarded about being able to eye something up level and plumb over a 2" span the difference that will be made in your shooting is less then the MOA the gun will actually shoot , so unless your anal for no reason meh eye it up

2) put the gun in a gun vice, hang a plumb bob , at a reasonable distance so you can fous your scope on it. line your virtical x-hairs up with the string, then install scope level, so well its level, done deal
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Crap, the difference you're talking about is the exact reason for using an anti-cant. If you're scope isn't level you've already introduced cant, now you're fighting that plus you're adjustments aren't 100% accurate. At 100 this might not be noticeable but at 1000 it will be. Why go to the lengths of squaring up an action, putting a custom barrel, spend good money on scope and rings, reload, ......then slap on your scope plumb over 2" and it's 'good enough'. This is a precision rifle forum, PRECISION!

Easiest most accurate way I've found is to level your rifle (this is actually the most difficult part) looking outside at a building window far enough to use full zoom and have the whole window in your field of view. Level the scope to intersect the horizontal and vertical planes of the window. Most windows are installed plumb and square, the further the distance the less influence any errors have, same principal that makes a longer sight radius more accurate. Tighten everything up and you're done, now install the anti-cant while everything is leveled.
 
Gunslinger said:
Crap, the difference you're talking about is the exact reason for using an anti-cant. If you're scope isn't level you've already introduced cant, now you're fighting that plus you're adjustments aren't 100% accurate. At 100 this might not be noticeable but at 1000 it will be. Why go to the lengths of squaring up an action, putting a custom barrel, spend good money on scope and rings, reload, ......then slap on your scope plumb over 2" and it's 'good enough'. This is a precision rifle forum, PRECISION!

Easiest most accurate way I've found is to level your rifle (this is actually the most difficult part) looking outside at a building window far enough to use full zoom and have the whole window in your field of view. Level the scope to intersect the horizontal and vertical planes of the window. Most windows are installed plumb and square, the further the distance the less influence any errors have, same principal that makes a longer sight radius more accurate. Tighten everything up and you're done, now install the anti-cant while everything is leveled.
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The point everyone is missing is that the scope must be leveled with the tracking. Not every scope will have the reticle perfectly plumb. You have to go out and do a tall target test to confirm your scope is tracking vertically.

Your scope doesn’t have to be mounted on a level gun. If your scope is 1/8 off set from the bore its not going to be a big deal. If your zeroed at 100 you will only be out 1 1/8" at 1000 yards. The amount of wind at 1000 is going to make 1" seem like nothing.
 
I'd rather have that 1 1/8" under my belt than out in the wind, the point with precision is to eliminate as many variables as you have control over. But good point about verifying the tracking.
 
I bought an anti cant that mounts on the scope...it was difficult to set while tightening the screws....the next one I get will mount on my rail rather than the scope
 
I have a flatline hunter model on my scope and I love it. All I did was use a level-level-level set up. I made sure my rifle was level in the vice, both forward and back, up and down. Mounted my rings and made sure they were in line with a piece of dowel.and tightened them down with lock tite. Then I put my scope in the mounts, placed a level on the top cap ant tightened it down when level with everything else. Then I installed the Flatline level and tightened that up. My groups have decreased dramatically since. I can now shoot under an MOA at 100 yrds. Best investment ever!!!
 
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Gunslinger said:
Crap, the difference you're talking about is the exact reason for using an anti-cant. If you're scope isn't level you've already introduced cant, now you're fighting that plus you're adjustments aren't 100% accurate. At 100 this might not be noticeable but at 1000 it will be. Why go to the lengths of squaring up an action, putting a custom barrel, spend good money on scope and rings, reload, ......then slap on your scope plumb over 2" and it's 'good enough'. This is a precision rifle forum, PRECISION!
.
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no having your scope canted is what you want to eliminate , if your zeroed at 100, and go out to 1000 and dial up with a canted scope, your dialing up and to the left or right, if your xhairs are plumb and you dial up, up is up no way around that.

lets go with KOna_stink example of say your bore center is 1/8" off your scope center, thats roughly, 6* thats IMO falls into the completly retarded scope of being able to eye plumb. now if your in 1-2* like a useful human eye should be, thats closer to 1/16" out of axis which is more like 7/16" at 1000.

now sit there and tell me, you posses a rifle, and trigger control, breathing and wind reading ability to place shot after shot 7/16" away from each other at 1000 yards.. its not possible


Dogleg said:
Who in Canada sells the Flatline ops anti-cant device?
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prophet river is the canadian dealer
 
ultimate_monkey said:
lets go with KOna_stink example of say your bore center is 1/8" off your scope center, thats roughly, 6* thats IMO falls into the completly retarded scope of being able to eye plumb. now if your in 1-2* like a useful human eye should be, thats closer to 1/16" out of axis which is more like 7/16" at 1000.

now sit there and tell me, you posses a rifle, and trigger control, breathing and wind reading ability to place shot after shot 7/16" away from each other at 1000 yards.. its not possible
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Again building upon the argument.

You also have to consider coriolis effects. It may only be 2 or 3" at 1000 yards but that’s about 6 times the affect of your scope being 1/16 off center.

Not many shooters take the time to consider coriolis effects on trajectory.

Also I think someone is mixing up precision and accuracy you can shoot precise groups with 45 degrees of cant at any range. But I doubt your group will be accurate.
 
ultimate_monkey said:
no having your scope canted is what you want to eliminate , if your zeroed at 100, and go out to 1000 and dial up with a canted scope, your dialing up and to the left or right, if your xhairs are plumb and you dial up, up is up no way around that.

lets go with KOna_stink example of say your bore center is 1/8" off your scope center, thats roughly, 6* thats IMO falls into the completly retarded scope of being able to eye plumb. now if your in 1-2* like a useful human eye should be, thats closer to 1/16" out of axis which is more like 7/16" at 1000.

now sit there and tell me, you posses a rifle, and trigger control, breathing and wind reading ability to place shot after shot 7/16" away from each other at 1000 yards.. its not possible



prophet river is the canadian dealer
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Actually you want to eliminate the axis between your aim point/cross hairs and your barrel from being canted while you shoot, this is why you level the gun AND the scope when setting them up.
 
yea if your scope is leveled (the xhairs) while plumb with the rifle bore, if your scope is leveled while off axis with the rifle bore with in reasons it doesnt matter
 
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