Antique powders for 41 long?

starw24

Member
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Hi everyone, I’ve been looking into handloading for my 1892 colt I’m getting, and was wondering what powders everyone is using. I’ve heard bullseye powder is good but seems to be sold out everywhere except in 8 pound packs, does anyone know where I could find some? Otherwise, what would you recommend for a black powder to use? Thanks !
 
I use 20 grains of fffg black powder (Goex or Schuetzen) with a 200 grain soft lead hollow base bullet. For smokeless, I've seen load data for both Unique and Bullseye. I don't think you'll find Unique anywhere these days and with Bullseye, a little variation can make a big difference. Safest to use black powder and clean everything well.
 
I use 20 grains of fffg black powder (Goex or Schuetzen) with a 200 grain soft lead hollow base bullet. For smokeless, I've seen load data for both Unique and Bullseye. I don't think you'll find Unique anywhere these days and with Bullseye, a little variation can make a big difference. Safest to use black powder and clean everything well.
Good point on the bullseye, one of the recipes I heard called for 3.1 grain and that would be easy to overshoot I’m guessing. Is the 3fg the only powder size good for these cartridges? I’ve seen stores offer lower and higher but I’m guessing that’s for muzzleloaders mainly. Cheers
 
The original load would have used black powder. Full case up to the base of the bullet. 3fg is the normal granulation used. I have used 2fg in old pistol cartridges when out of 3fg. Unique is my go to powder for old cartridges using smokeless powders. I still a couple pounds left.
 
Unique...4.3 to 4.5 grains.
I think I brought up the Bullseye story in another thread...meters poorly for someone new to reloading.
My opinion.
That and about 2 dollars will get you a coffee
Black powder is the safest. Can use a little COW to reduce loads if required.
 
Yeah the stores I’m seeing all have 3fg black powder so that’s what I’m going to stick with for now. Should be safer and easier for a first time reloading. Eventually if I get good with trickling and the powder loads I can do some light loads with smokeless. I think it’s good to learn to clean properly anyway and it will give me good practice disassembling the piece. Thanks everyone!
 
I've had a few of these old guns and I've landed on BP (compressed loads) as the best option. Its actually very easy to load, is easy on the gun, and gives best performance. If you're a high volume shooter (not recommended with an antique) then smokeless might make more sense
 
I've had a few of these old guns and I've landed on BP (compressed loads) as the best option. Its actually very easy to load, is easy on the gun, and gives best performance. If you're a high volume shooter (not recommended with an antique) then smokeless might make more sense
That was going to be another question of mine eventually. What determines how much you can / should shoot one of these, maybe bore condition? I’m not going to be shooting this one too often, but I typically go out 2 or 3 times a year into the woods to shoot NR, would it be alright to bring say 25-50 hand loads to shoot with some cleaning and oiling in between? Thanks
 
That was going to be another question of mine eventually. What determines how much you can / should shoot one of these, maybe bore condition? I’m not going to be shooting this one too often, but I typically go out 2 or 3 times a year into the woods to shoot NR, would it be alright to bring say 25-50 hand loads to shoot with some cleaning and oiling in between? Thanks
Bore has nothing to do with durability for handguns, at antique velocities with lead bullets the bores will not wear out, unlike with a rifle. That's why you often see webley's and french 1892's with perfect bores.

The Colt 1889/1892's have a pretty poor and weak lockup system, which is why Colt switched to the warnant system (used in webley's and lebels) in 1898 with the new service. You should be concerned about lockup going loose, especially the cylinder latch spring which is used for lockup on the 1889/1892 design, endshake, and battering of the recoil shield/firing pin hole.

A box or two now and then shouldn't hurt it. But if you wanted a durable gun the lebels and webleys can be shot as regularly as any modern handgun (I've put at least 750 rounds through a mk I, the only limiting factor is availability of primers for reloading)
 
The cast boolits forum has some info on smokeless loads for .41 Colt. Likewise, a search for .41 Colt smokeless load data, should turn up some info, as well. Bullseye was one powder listed.
If you can locate some Hodgdon Universal powder, this is essentially identical to Unique, in burn rate and performance. Load data the same for either. Have used it as a substitute for Unique, for many years. It works.
Trailboss may be a bulky powder but, it is not a substitute for black powder. Consider its burn rate and sharp pressure curve, before considering reloading with it.
If you have a good source for Fffg powder, that is still your best option.
 
That was going to be another question of mine eventually. What determines how much you can / should shoot one of these, maybe bore condition? I’m not going to be shooting this one too often, but I typically go out 2 or 3 times a year into the woods to shoot NR, would it be alright to bring say 25-50 hand loads to shoot with some cleaning and oiling in between? Thanks
I rebuilt an 89 from a shoebox of parts.
Kinds proud of that. Sin of pride I suspect.
92 had the same pieces as an 89, I think the cylinder latch is essential to lock up on the 89, and they just added on their proprietary locks to make the 92.
If buying an 89 open the cylinder and check the latch. There will be a ramp there, if it is chipped, it's going to take a while to find a replacement
I think you can dry fire the action on an 89 with cylinder 'out'.
Run it through the DA and keep the trigger back. Look at the tip of the 'hand'.
Same thing, if it's chipped... not cool.
I'd like to see a 92 in good shape, the one's I had were rode hard. Seen a friend's dad's 92 in 38 LC...same thing.
I've never actually handled one that was bank solid.
I've put an easy 500 through my 89. Wore out 2 or 3(50) lots brass I'd guess.
Just have to be much focused and mindful that it is a more delicate.
Not as safe in the the cylinder free wheels.
 
starw24:
Chris: Sent you a pm, a few minutes ago. Repeated here, for additional coverage. Regarding Model 1892 disassembly/reassembly. May be of use, when cleaning.

Al
 
I rebuilt an 89 from a shoebox of parts.
Kinds proud of that. Sin of pride I suspect.
92 had the same pieces as an 89, I think the cylinder latch is essential to lock up on the 89, and they just added on their proprietary locks to make the 92.
If buying an 89 open the cylinder and check the latch. There will be a ramp there, if it is chipped, it's going to take a while to find a replacement
I think you can dry fire the action on an 89 with cylinder 'out'.
Run it through the DA and keep the trigger back. Look at the tip of the 'hand'.
Same thing, if it's chipped... not cool.
I'd like to see a 92 in good shape, the one's I had were rode hard. Seen a friend's dad's 92 in 38 LC...same thing.
I've never actually handled one that was bank solid.
I've put an easy 500 through my 89. Wore out 2 or 3(50) lots brass I'd guess.
Just have to be much focused and mindful that it is a more delicate.
Not as safe in the the cylinder free wheels.
Thanks for the spots to look out for, I’ll check those and see what the wear is like. I agree I’ve heard many of these pieces got a good share of use. The owner said this one has almost a mm of play for the cylinder, so I’m guessing it’s been used well too.
 
Back
Top Bottom