Any hints for draw filing?

[vagrantviking]

I've done some draw filing before on smaller projects without too much trouble but figured I would cast around for any tricks or advice since I'm looking at doing a big octagon barrel.

Any recommendations for files? Is chalk mandatory? Any other equipment that would be handy?

Also looking for any metal working books that focus on hand work you might be able to point me too as serious machinery is not going to be coming to my home in the immediate future yet.

Thanks All!

 

[broncoo]

I've done some draw filing before on smaller projects without too much trouble but figured I would cast around for any tricks or advice since I'm looking at doing a big octagon barrel.

Any recommendations for files? Is chalk mandatory? Any other equipment that would be handy?

Also looking for any metal working books that focus on hand work you might be able to point me too as serious machinery is not going to be coming to my home in the immediate future yet.

Thanks All!

i like to use a single cut hand bastard. no chalk, a file card and a piece of old leather to clean the file out after every pass. having a clean file is paramount for obtaining a nice finish.

for finishing after filing i put a single wrap of wet dry paper on the file lightly oiled (mineral oil,wd40) pretty well anything that helps the paper cut

hope that info is useful

 

[Splatter]

(H)aving a clean file is paramount for obtaining a nice finish.

What he said.
I like chalk myself, and a "Lathe file", because the 'teeth' are at a steeper angle, so one can hold the file at more of an angle, putting more of the file on the workpiece, making it easier to keep the file flat.

 

[BCRider]

For draw filing something like an octagonal barrel it's extremely difficult to hold the file perfectly aligned for the whole draw. It would be work making up a jig to hold the barrel and that has a rail over to one side a few inches away. Clamp the barrel into the jig using some way to level it with the guide rail. Wrap the file where it'll run on the rail with paper or thin sheet metal. Now when you draw file the barrel just make sure there's a slight pressure holding the file to the guide rail while most of it is on the file.

Draw filing also doesn't require a huge amount of force. If you push harder than mildly firmly you risk cutting too deeply and getting a metal buildup or "pin" in the file teeth. Use a new(er) good brand name single cut bastard as noted above and just push with maybe 4 to 5 pounds of pressure.

I vote for finish sanding as well using oil mixed with mineral spirits as a lube. But again do this in the jig you make so it maintains the nice flat and true surfaces.

Assuming you're going to stamp some lettering in the barrel draw file it lightly to almost size, stamp as needed then finish draw filing to remove the risen metal and achieve a really classy looking almost engraved lettering.

 

[broncoo]

also if you go buy a new file pick through em as most are never straight and have a slight bow to em

 

[BCRider]

also if you go buy a new file pick through em as most are never straight and have a slight bow to em

Good point. Also don't buy from anywhere you find them all just dumped in a box without the protective paper that keeps them separated. Why the stores remove that paper is beyond me. Ignorance, pure ignorance.

 

[Aries-]

Good point. Also don't buy from anywhere you find them all just dumped in a box without the protective paper that keeps them separated. Why the stores remove that paper is beyond me. Ignorance, pure ignorance.

likely because they don't look as pretty with the paper on as they do with it off.

 

[vagrantviking]

I vote for finish sanding as well using oil mixed with mineral spirits as a lube. But again do this in the jig you make so it maintains the nice flat and true surfaces.

Assuming you're going to stamp some lettering in the barrel draw file it lightly to almost size, stamp as needed then finish draw filing to remove the risen metal and achieve a really classy looking almost engraved lettering.

I'll put some thought into a jig. Not sure that I can find anything that will be straight enough that I can keep mounted straight. The barrel is already octagon and its fairly easy to stay flat on it but as a guy tires it might be hard to stay focused and keep it flat.

The hint for going over the lettering is a good idea. Right now I'm just taking off the machining marks and doing the first pass. After I get it mounted it will get some markings and final sanding.

also if you go buy a new file pick through em as most are never straight and have a slight bow to em

Thats a good thought that didn't occur to me. I have to agree about seeing good tools thrown in a heap in a box when they should be kept seperated. Drives me nuts!

Thanks for your input.

 

[Wendell]

I've done some draw filing before on smaller projects without too much trouble but figured I would cast around for any tricks or advice since I'm looking at doing a big octagon barrel.

Any recommendations for files? Is chalk mandatory? Any other equipment that would be handy?

Also looking for any metal working books that focus on hand work you might be able to point me too as serious machinery is not going to be coming to my home in the immediate future yet.

Thanks All!

Brownells
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=21/k=/t=P/mfg=/Products/Books

 

[mooncoon]

Any recommendations for files? Is chalk mandatory?

I use cutting oil instead of chalk and clean the file often. As another has said; use a new sharp file for fast clean cuts. If you are doing your own rusting or bluing afterwards, degrease the barrel with solvent then with lye. The lye saponifies any remaining oil.

cheers mooncoon

 

[BCRider]

A jig of some form shouldn't be all that hard to come up with provided the barrel is a straight octagonal or uses a straight line taper.

Trust me, if you try to draw file something with a flat that is only 1/2 inch wide you WILL end up making it wobbly. To see what I mean and cement the need for a jig to assist with keeping the file sitting flat to the surface try draw filing a piece of something like 1/2 inch square scrap metal. Hold the file flat to the surface then draw towards the end about 6 inches away. When you get near the end stop without lifting or going off the end and see if you managed to keep the file flat to the surface or, more likely, it's tilted slighly and is now cutting on an angle.

Also as mentioned before buy a good quality file. Something like Nicholson, Sandvik or another big recognized name. The stuff from China or India is pretty crude and it'll show in the final surface.

 

[trevj]

I'll add in the same advice.

Sharp. Clean. Single cut.

I do a lot of draw filing and find that staying away from the cutting oils is to my advantage. Too messy, too much opportunity for stuff to stick to the face of the file when cleaning it.

A super size black felt tip marker can be really handy. A quick swipe across your part and you can see instantly, exactly where you are cutting.

Watch the curve of the file. It can be worked to your advantage. Easier to knock a lump out of the middle of a mostly flat part, if there is a bit of curve.

I'd suggest a single cut 'second cut' file for a near finish surface. A big 'Machine' or 'lathe' file for fast fast removal. Then 320 grit wet or dry paper, on up. I prefer water with a drop or two of soap in it for sanding.

Set yourself up so that you can see the light reflected off the surface you are working on. You will soon enough develop an eye to see the difference the cut you just made is, from the previous cuts. I find that drawing a cut at a slight diagonal allows an easy way to set a pattern that gives some contrast to the cuts you are making. Facing a window, square on, or having a wall or other level surface like a workbench top, in the background, will allow for an easier reference when working for flat and level. Both hands over top the file, and feel the cut. I sometimes wrap a paper towel or shop rag over the end of the file that does not have a handle. Sometimes I just use the files without handles. (you gotta be really creative to figure out how to stab yourself when draw filing!)

Buy a file card (the wire brush for cleaning files) use it lots. A couple old cartridge cases with the ends pounded flat make handy tools to clean pinning out of the file teeth. Watch for pinning! It takes a while to get a good looking surface going on a part, very little to drag a pinned file across it and dig great swearable deep grooves in it. Mostly, I have found that pinning can be avoided by applying a great deal of patience to the work. Try to go too fast, and you go backwards!
I do not usually use chalk. It will slow down pinning, but so will using a coarser file to move more metal, then switching to a finer one for finish.

Oh. Be prepared to hurt a bit. You will find muscles you didn't know about, and they are gonna have to get used to the effort.

Enjoy!

Cheers
Trev

 

[Marcel B.]

Lots of good advice here!

But... how does that saying go?

"Give the same project that should take two hours to complete to the British, Germans, and Americans.

The British will ask for 2 1/4 hours in order to include a tea break,

The Germans will ask for a full set of engineering drawings,

The Americans will spend an hour and a half figuring out how to do the whole thing in twenty minutes using power tools!"



I am a FIRM believer in mechanical assistance! However I can, and DO, very good hand work when I have to. It's just such a pain in the arse...