Any one out there chop their SPS varment able to tell me weight difference?

baker42

baker42

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Hey,

So I looked through my safe and have found out that most if not all my rifles that I would have used for hunting are wearing heavy barrels, and are in the 11lbs+ realm.

I know... I know... man up, go to the gym, buy a new rifle for it... yada yada. Well I am in that process but I don't think I will have enough time to save the money for either the Weatherby Ultra-Light, or Kimber Mountain Assent I have fallen in love with, unless I sell some stuff. And well I carry way too much heavy stuff for work… don’t want my fun stuff to be doing the same.

I also have looked into a carbon fiber barrel, and they are on a 6month wait list, so not in time.

Anyway the one rifle I have that I wouldn't mind too much hacking up is a SPS varmint in 308 with an HS precision stock. With switching to talley light weight rings and night force compact scope (I know I could go with a lighter scope but that could be more money than cutting for the same weight savings) I have only cut down the weight to 10.1lbs. This is better but I still think more can come off. Tried going back to the factory stock and a houge model but the 0.2-0.4 is not enough I feel to warrant the better stock feel with the HS.

So to the question I have searched different barrel lengths within the same contour and have even looked at the difference between the SPS Tac and Var on Rem website, but nothing beats people that have actually done it. So if someone has the info, or can weight theirs it would be much appreciated!!

Weight is my only concern really. It already shoots constant sub MOA 5 shot groups and has one amazing 0.288 that I have not duplicated sense... Can't ask for much more out of a factory barreled rifle.
If it is in the 1lbs+ level I think I will do it other than that I will leave it and just shoot it

Pro Patria
 
i have cut down my 243 SPS heavy varmint barrel from 26 down to 20 inches.
length was the most of my reasoning since were we haunt there are lots of trees and bushes and i kept snagging the barrel on branches.
i think it reduced the weight by about 1.5 lb.

if you do cut your barrel you will have to rework up your load.
mine tactfully improved since the barrel was less "floppy" and made it overall more rigid.
 
A 6" long steel bar .81" in diameter, with a quarter inch hole through it weighs just over 3/4 lb.
 
Weight is 'perceived.'

I once played with a Tango 51. It had a 20" barrel and sniperfill in the stock. It 'felt' lighter than many pencil barreled carbon stocked rifles I'd handled. Mostly because it was built with purpose and balanced properly.
Also, the difference between an 18" barrel and 20" barrel in weight is negligible, but they I find they sure handle different. I had a 5R cut at 20" then recut a year later to 18.5" and it's like a whole new rifle. I say go long or go short. #### the inbetween.
 
Like I said I was more interested in over all weight. I am well versed in ounces is pounds when it comes to humping something over verying terrain.
I do know what you mean by feel and handling but that isn't what I was after. Most likely I will just run it as I have it set up now if I am only shaving 3/4lbsish, then just put that money towards the kimber or weatherby!

Thanks for the info though
 
An easy solution would be to install a take-off sporter weight barrel. Make a handier rifle than a bobbed varmint rifle.
 
Well... Its a 1-12 twist, and the science says you want 2 full rotations before it leaves the barrel. But don't forget the 3" of chamber, so... Yea... I'd just say F it and chop it to 20", then re-crown it, and pronounce the taper a bit more. 18.5" if you want a muzzle on it, or be ballzy and make the brake part of the barrel.
 
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