Lots of info on both rifles. Both have great merits, but I don't see a whole lot of difference in the base models. Both have accutriggers, bothe have 26 inch barrels. Is there a decided way to go on this?? Looking for a posssible .223 for longer range target work. Out to 600 yards or so. I have many remingtons now. I would like to maybe give savage a go.
Any reason to pick a Model 10 savage over a 12
- Thread starter Barks
- Start date
benelli one
Regular
- Location
- moncton . NB
i share your interest and would also like to know. been looking at savage for a .223 as well. Does anyone dislike this accutrigger system and are these Savage rifles as accurate as they claim?
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
go with the less expensive blued version. They all shoot about the same.
No matter the stock, ALL must be properly bedded supporting the recoil lug fully - even in front.
If you want dirt cheap and are handy with tools, the FV version with the tupperwear is easily modded to stiffen. Works very well once made more rigid.
About a $12 upgrade and 1 hours time. so unless one of the other factory stocks turns your crank, you can save quite a bit with simple mods. Open the forend WAAAAAAYYYY up. Think 1/4" gap all around - helps with cooling and ensures the forend cannot hit the barrel....ever.
The accutrigger is the nicest factory trigger I have played with recently. It can safely be tuned down to 1.5lbs at home with no special tooling.
Stuff 75gr Amax over Varget, Win cases, BR4 or 450 primers and live happily ever after. Max distance I have seen this combo shot accurately was a smidge over 1400yds. I have only shot my combo (stevens 200) to 1000m/1100yds.
They work...
Jerry
No matter the stock, ALL must be properly bedded supporting the recoil lug fully - even in front.
If you want dirt cheap and are handy with tools, the FV version with the tupperwear is easily modded to stiffen. Works very well once made more rigid.
About a $12 upgrade and 1 hours time. so unless one of the other factory stocks turns your crank, you can save quite a bit with simple mods. Open the forend WAAAAAAYYYY up. Think 1/4" gap all around - helps with cooling and ensures the forend cannot hit the barrel....ever.
The accutrigger is the nicest factory trigger I have played with recently. It can safely be tuned down to 1.5lbs at home with no special tooling.
Stuff 75gr Amax over Varget, Win cases, BR4 or 450 primers and live happily ever after. Max distance I have seen this combo shot accurately was a smidge over 1400yds. I have only shot my combo (stevens 200) to 1000m/1100yds.
They work...
Jerry
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
The recoil lug controls all the recoil forces through the action. Unfortunately, it has been forgotten to a large degree.
By securing ALL sides of the lug, you control all forces - recoil, torque and flex - instead of it being transfered to the action screws where many mega dollar stocks put the forces. Very bad idea.
If the lug is not supported on all sides, the action will move towards the unsupported side. Overtime, that will cause wear and tear on other parts and on the bedding. Biggest problem is that it can cause flyers. Yes, a rifle will recoil in both directions- forward and aft. Not much forward but it is there.
On a braked rifle, the forward component is substantially higher.
If concerned that recoil forces only go back so why bother bedding the front, have a look at the fancy alum chassis tacky stocks and examine the action screw holes. You will find a nice imprint of the action screws ALL around the bedding screw hole even though the screw has quite a bit of room.
Yes, that action is moving around ALOT under recoil. Big reason for flyers and other PITA accuracy problems.
As to bedding under the rear tang, I do but in many stocks the amount of area there amounts to zip. It will not hurt to do it so I do when it makes sense. Supporting an action is never a bad idea.
Jerry
PS bedding the front of the lug and even under the first 1 to 2" of barrel becomes very important with a long heavy barrel. Gives the action alot of support to help with flex and flyers.
By securing ALL sides of the lug, you control all forces - recoil, torque and flex - instead of it being transfered to the action screws where many mega dollar stocks put the forces. Very bad idea.
If the lug is not supported on all sides, the action will move towards the unsupported side. Overtime, that will cause wear and tear on other parts and on the bedding. Biggest problem is that it can cause flyers. Yes, a rifle will recoil in both directions- forward and aft. Not much forward but it is there.
On a braked rifle, the forward component is substantially higher.
If concerned that recoil forces only go back so why bother bedding the front, have a look at the fancy alum chassis tacky stocks and examine the action screw holes. You will find a nice imprint of the action screws ALL around the bedding screw hole even though the screw has quite a bit of room.
Yes, that action is moving around ALOT under recoil. Big reason for flyers and other PITA accuracy problems.
As to bedding under the rear tang, I do but in many stocks the amount of area there amounts to zip. It will not hurt to do it so I do when it makes sense. Supporting an action is never a bad idea.
Jerry
PS bedding the front of the lug and even under the first 1 to 2" of barrel becomes very important with a long heavy barrel. Gives the action alot of support to help with flex and flyers.
thebuckhunter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
I have a 10 FPLE in .223 with a 20" barrel. It originally came with the Choate Ultimate Sniper stock. I picked up a tupperware one and stiffened it for less than $10. With either stock, it shoots pretty much the same. Buy a Savage and shoot happily ever after! 
-Jason
-Jason
How do you stiffen up the composite/plastic stock on a Savage? I just purchased a Stevens 200 and I'm trying to decide if I should do something with that way too flexible front end or just pour some money into a higher end stock. I like tinkering, have some time, the tools and way too much interest in playing with things to consider replacing it as my first option.
Cheers,
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
With Varget, start at 23.5gr and work up in 2 tenth increments till around 24.5 to 25.gr. This is with a CCI BR4 primer. If you use 450, start 1/2gr lower and work up.
To stiffen the foreend, get an arrow shaft, dremel out a slot for it, epoxy into place with a bit of glass. STiff. I like to get one end into the action screw area to tie this better to the forend.
Arrow shafts are like $4 each and you can use two for a really stiff forend. 1 if concerned with weight.
Clean the surface really well with aerosol brake cleaner and rough it up with some shallow offset holes and a chisel.
Jerry
I have a model 11 with accutrigger in .308 shoots very well for what i have into it ,at least as good as my remington 700 . The accutriger is best used without gloves (so yes that has happend to me as well) . I also have a stevens 200 in .223 trigger not great but it is a good shooter and very cheap , would buy one again for sure .
stevesummit
CGN Regular
- Location
- spruce grove
never looked back after buying my 12 in 223 24.5 varget and 77gr smk makes 1/4 moa at 100 yrd
superd222
CGN frequent flyer
Hey Jerry,
Thanks for the stiffening-by-arrow-shaft method.
I'll try this on one of my pieces of tupperware....
I must agree and reinforce your suggestion to CLEAN all parts very well that are to be bonded with glass or epoxy. Brake cleaner works. Carb cleaner is better and leaves no residue. Rubbing alcohol (IPA) works great to remove dirt/oils and leaves absolutely no residue that may affect bonding.
Another point you suggested which is important is abrading both the surfaces of the stock and arrow shaft (especially the low surface energy polymers the 'tupperware' is made from). You can use something like 80-120 grit sand paper or Scotchbrite. You just need to create some 'tooth' for the adhesive to grab into - a light abrasion is all that's needed. This also creates more surface area and will yield a stronger/stiffer stock.
It's important to clean AFTER abrading also to remove all oils and loose particles.
Can't wait to try this!!!
SD
Thanks for the stiffening-by-arrow-shaft method.
I'll try this on one of my pieces of tupperware....
I must agree and reinforce your suggestion to CLEAN all parts very well that are to be bonded with glass or epoxy. Brake cleaner works. Carb cleaner is better and leaves no residue. Rubbing alcohol (IPA) works great to remove dirt/oils and leaves absolutely no residue that may affect bonding.
Another point you suggested which is important is abrading both the surfaces of the stock and arrow shaft (especially the low surface energy polymers the 'tupperware' is made from). You can use something like 80-120 grit sand paper or Scotchbrite. You just need to create some 'tooth' for the adhesive to grab into - a light abrasion is all that's needed. This also creates more surface area and will yield a stronger/stiffer stock.
It's important to clean AFTER abrading also to remove all oils and loose particles.
Can't wait to try this!!!
SD
