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It's almost mandatory for reloading 9mm from my Glock if I want my reloads to fit a case gauge. They'll still fit the chamber with a normal crimp die, just not the case gauge.
I use a FCD on my 223, I don't get any bullet setback in my AR-15. I've never not crimped my 223 though.
Awesome, I was just about to make the same post!! I'll be following this one! I just bought a LEE Factory Crimper last weekend, made up some loads for my 308 to try this Sunday! I'll try and get some pics and see what happens!
Awesome, I was just about to make the same post!! I'll be following this one! I just bought a LEE Factory Crimper last weekend, made up some loads for my 308 to try this Sunday! I'll try and get some pics and see what happens!
What did you load? I just finished an hour ago. I loaded 150gr Interbonds and 168 CT Balistic Silvertips with varget. Also going to shoot Sunday, I'll post results with pics.
I am using it on .223 used for plinking. Extra measure of safety while shooting fast and furious. But for accuracy in my bushmaster Varmitter, I am not using it. It distort match bullet too much and negate any use of such bullet. I am not using any crimp on my match ammo - they do not need it since I am using Redding bushing full body dies to avoid bullet set back. Case neck tension provide all the holding power that is needed. I feel safer with the Lee factory crimp but it does not provide superior accuracy if this is the goal. For general shooting. it is the way to go.
I use a Lee factory crimp die all the time for my 308. I don't know if it helps accuracy or not but I still prefer to crimp my bullets in place. It obviously does no harm as I get very good groups with it.
I crimp all my hunting ammo when the bullets have cannulars. I think risking deforming a bullet by crimping one without a cannular is a poor practice. When working up a load for my target rifles, I work up the load with the bullet making firm contact with the rifling.
I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die when I load handgun ammo because I like the idea of a final sizing of the cartridge with the bullet seated. I haven't used the rifle version of the Factory Crimp Die as the seating die crimper seems to work quite well. I seat and crimp in separate operations, and adjust the height of the die for each individual cartridge when crimping. This seems to produce more uniform results even with trimmed cases.
I use the Lee Factory Crimp die on all my loads, 30-06, 7mm-08, 25wssm etc, for hunting and target shooting. You need to be aware of how much pressure to apply ( it comes with practice ) You will crush most bullets without a cannelure if you apply too much and you can even distort bullets with a cannelure, so easy does it. It is like anything else in reloading, keep everything consistent.
I prefer no crimp on most rifles. I would crimp on a real hard kicker like an African type rifle though. It's not needed on a 308 hunting rifle though.
I shoot cast in all my rifles and find the Lee FCD is perfect. I set it so it just removes the belling required to load lead bullets without shaving them.
For pistols I think the FCD is a waste of money if you shoot lead bullets. Resizing the bullets down to jacketed diameter sets up leading and poor accuracy. Cartridges may look nicer but that is about it. I have experienced no feeding problems in any of my center fire pistols taper crimping or just removing the crimp in 9MM, .40 cal and .45acp. For revolvers I roll crimp to eliminate set back from recoil.
I use on my 308 match loads,but I have always,so I can't say.The factory Savage shoots roughly 1" at 300 with the first choice bullets and powder.So maybe it helps??
On a different level,hunting loads in 30.06,I have found it will take seating depth out of the equation. I changed the seating depth .100" and the groups opened up to 7/8" from 3/4" at 100m.
I began using the factory crimp dies for the harder recoil calibers such as my
.444 Marlin and the .375H&H out of necessity. The results have shown me that it is the way to go, all around.
I crimp for my ARs and M-14, and give all my match ammo a slight crimp with a Lee factory crimp die. The match bullets (no cannalure) do not get crushed or distorted, and I find, assuming case length is consistant, that the neck tension is more uniform. I have seen better accuracy from crimping vs. none in some loads, but have never seen accuracy degrade because of it.
I would highly recommend anyone to at least test it out for themselves.
I only crimp for semi-autos, not for bolt rifles. I see not need for bolt rifles.
Ops, I forgot, I do crimp for one bolt, it is 9.3x64 with huge 286grain TSX bullets. That bullet got rings and I crimp so bullet will stay in place.