Anyone done cerokote and have any reassemble issues?

HawkWei

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Hi guys recently I am considering cerakote my entire rifle and I find this Montreal local cerakote shop called Cerakote montreal.

It is a fairly new shop and they have 5 star reviews but only like 3 or 4 users. They have done firearm cerakote but I did not find any mention of professional gunsmith on their web.

Upon looking close inspection of my rifle, there are many moving parts and tight fit tiny pieces here and there and my biggest concern is if the shop can reassemble the rifle back to the factory tight.

So, anyone have experience of cerokote assemble job went wrong or my concern is too much?
 
The first few rifles I did, I had some tightness when inserting pins due to too much paint in the holes. Other than that, if done properly there shouldn't be any issues.
 
Unless you want to pay a lot more than the usual cost all shops are going to prep the entire (inside and outside) parts of the rifle and spray them to save time/cost. This means all the wearing surfaces of the rifle will have Cerakote on them. This killed the slick feeling of my Tikka and I will never get another action or rifle of any type Cerakoted as a result. The new Elite Cerakote (very limited colours) is supposedly quite slick, but will likely have an effect regardless. If your rifle is operating well, it may not operate as well after. The Cerakote will wear over time, reducing drag.

Personally, I just use a rattle can and call it even. I can take all the time I want to mask off areas and stuff them full of rags so paint doesn't go where I don't want it.
 
From a guy who does this type of painting, then baking it, he insists every screw and pin is removed - too many times has had dribble of oil or whatever ooze out and spoil finish, especially as the parts warm up. So, for him, complete dis-assembly is a must. I personally would not want wearing or bearing surfaces coated on my rifles - but they are almost all bolt actions - all I see happen is wear marks / drag marks on blued or painted bolt bodies, etc. - my own preference is for "in the white" for those parts, but to each there own...

No reason to believe someone who is very competent as spray and baking finisher is also able to competently dis-assemble and re-assemble every possible firearm without error. Many calling themselves gunsmiths can not either - often why they specialize in various, but finite, number of arms that they work with ...
 
From a guy who does this type of painting, then baking it, he insists every screw and pin is removed - too many times has had dribble of oil or whatever ooze out and spoil finish, especially as the parts warm up. So, for him, complete dis-assembly is a must. I personally would not want wearing or bearing surfaces coated on my rifles - but they are almost all bolt actions - all I see happen is wear marks / drag marks on blued or painted bolt bodies, etc. - my own preference is for "in the white" for those parts, but to each there own...

No reason to believe someone who is very competent as spray and baking finisher is also able to competently dis-assemble and re-assemble every possible firearm without error. Many calling themselves gunsmiths can not either - often why they specialize in various, but finite, number of arms that they work with ...

Good point!
 
Unless you want to pay a lot more than the usual cost all shops are going to prep the entire (inside and outside) parts of the rifle and spray them to save time/cost. This means all the wearing surfaces of the rifle will have Cerakote on them. This killed the slick feeling of my Tikka and I will never get another action or rifle of any type Cerakoted as a result. The new Elite Cerakote (very limited colours) is supposedly quite slick, but will likely have an effect regardless. If your rifle is operating well, it may not operate as well after. The Cerakote will wear over time, reducing drag.

Personally, I just use a rattle can and call it even. I can take all the time I want to mask off areas and stuff them full of rags so paint doesn't go where I don't want it.

You have convinced me not to risk it haha
 
From a guy who does this type of painting, then baking it, he insists every screw and pin is removed - too many times has had dribble of oil or whatever ooze out and spoil finish, especially as the parts warm up. So, for him, complete dis-assembly is a must. I personally would not want wearing or bearing surfaces coated on my rifles - but they are almost all bolt actions - all I see happen is wear marks / drag marks on blued or painted bolt bodies, etc. - my own preference is for "in the white" for those parts, but to each there own...

No reason to believe someone who is very competent as spray and baking finisher is also able to competently dis-assemble and re-assemble every possible firearm without error. Many calling themselves gunsmiths can not either - often why they specialize in various, but finite, number of arms that they work with ...

I second this, I have had the same experience.
 
Hi guys recently I am considering cerakote my entire rifle and I find this Montreal local cerakote shop called Cerakote montreal.

It is a fairly new shop and they have 5 star reviews but only like 3 or 4 users. They have done firearm cerakote but I did not find any mention of professional gunsmith on their web.

Upon looking close inspection of my rifle, there are many moving parts and tight fit tiny pieces here and there and my biggest concern is if the shop can reassemble the rifle back to the factory tight.

So, anyone have experience of cerokote assemble job went wrong or my concern is too much?

As an applicator, the finish (if applied right) is thin enough that moving parts should reassemble with no issues. Another member was correct in stating that the rifle parts must be degreased using a solvent or ultrasonic tank, not all parts have to be painted, very small parts something like "springs, roll pins" etc wouldn't. Its a great product, and if done right looks great and protects your firearm.
 
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