Anyone in south Calgary own a Rem 700 in any magnum caliber?

Sheep1

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Hi folks. I am wondering if anyone in SE Calgary owns a Rem 700 in any of the magnum calibers. I am having trouble extracting cases as my bolt has a Sako extractor and what I'd like to do is to kindly ask you to meet up, try your bolt in my action to see if it would extract a fired case if your bolt has the standard Remington extractor. Please send me a PM if you live in South Calgary and will gladly meet up and buy you a beer or Timmy's. Thanks.
 
Sako extractors can be finicky if the ejector spring is too stiff or not stiff enough. Often they will extract/eject spent brass but not a loaded round ime. I’d take it back to whoever put in the sako extractor and ask to get it working properly.
 
Sheep1,
Clean the chamber...well.

Inspect the machine work of your SAKO extractor installation to ascertain IF a thru hole was improperly machined instead of a counterbore for the extractor to pivot in.

IF,you can see the firing pin thru said hole, you have a BASTARDIZED/Improperly machined DANGEROUS situation.

Any Rem 2 lug bolt/handle is TIMED into BATTERY & NOT for PRIMARY Extraction
(relocating the handle closer to the receiver is ONLY 1 part of the 5 part equation)
 
Sheep1,
Clean the chamber...well.

Inspect the machine work of your SAKO extractor installation to ascertain IF a thru hole was improperly machined instead of a counterbore for the extractor to pivot in.

IF,you can see the firing pin thru said hole, you have a BASTARDIZED/Improperly machined DANGEROUS situation.

Any Rem 2 lug bolt/handle is TIMED into BATTERY & NOT for PRIMARY Extraction
(relocating the handle closer to the receiver is ONLY 1 part of the 5 part equation)

Could you tell us all 5 parts Dan? Im curious. - dan
 
A fired case? Or fire a round and try to extract? Different guns may have different headspace, so firing it with a mismatched bolt may not be safe.
 
A fired case? Or fire a round and try to extract? Different guns may have different headspace, so firing it with a mismatched bolt may not be safe.


Remington bolts have 3 lug options-
A flat bottom prick punch centered in the circumference of the lug is the "mean" length which measures .440" fwd/aft.
IF,no prick punch mark is present said lugs are .004" longer than the above mean length.
IF,there is a "V" shaped radial groove centered in the lug the lugs are .004" shorter than the mean length lugs.

By measuring the bolt lug length & on any non-bastardized/trued/bluprinted receiver-
The bolts will INTERCHANGE w/o any headspace issues.

OEM bolt nose spec-
.150" bolt nose to breech face.
.150" bolt nose to fwd face of bolt lug.

For the YouTuber that just relocates a bolt handle closer to the receiver...
the plumber addressed 1 aspect to TIME said bolt handle.
the rotation of the bolt/handle does the work of extraction.
w/o a handle attached on any Rem 2 lug bolt...the body will rotate until you stop the rotation.

Any Rem 2 lug of 721/722 vintage to the present RR prefix serial numbered receivers the handles will be .080" to .160" out of TIME radially.

The ONLY part in the equation that has changed is the bolt handle & machining procedures.

Do NOT attempt the above bolt swap in any WIN,Browning,Uger,Bergara etc w/o checking head space.
 
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Dan,

I don't know if I was doing them right or wrong but the few handles that I "reset" were re soldered forward... far enough forward that a 10 thou feeler on the initial camming surface would act like a no go gauge...that seemed to work well as far as extraction was concerned... the rotation was set to match the locking lugs so they cleared easily with the bolt handle held up... I then altered the cocking piece/sear engagement and the locating 'bump' on the back of the bolt - lessening the '#### on closing' for smoother operation. Firing pin protrusion always between 50 and 60 thou... never misfired. I still have one I did for myself (trued & bumped) and it is still working superbly.
 
guntech,
Referencing a RH receiver-
A,B,C,D to "E" prefix serial numbered receivers are of "Long Cam" bolt handle design...as I've coined them.
The above will have a .200"embossed "C" or "S" in the underside of the handle.
The drafted primary extraction cam surface in the bolt handle of the above will get a ding/divot in the surface that will result in pushing up a burr.
Timed radially, the long cam handles will be .060" out of time unless the handle is re-worked.
Radius the RH lower & LH upper corner of the bolt lug to improve cycling.

There are some mis-marked/stamped "F" prefix serial numbered receivers in existence.

Any "G" prefix serial numbered receiver of 2006(intro of X Mark trigger group) to present "RR" prefix serial numbered receivers have a "Short Cam" handle....as I've coined them.
The above short cam handles will be .160" out of time radially w/o re-working the handle.

Yes,any Remington 2 lug bolt once "Striker to Sear" hand off is TIMED for #### on closing is capable of cycling w/ 2 fingers & makes most trigger groups more repeatable.

The XP-100,722 Short action & 721 Long action on my bench have TIMED 10's of thousands of handles from the late 70's to the present day......& still counting!!
(no anti bind rail in the above receivers...so any bolt/handle is easily TIMED)
 
Sad to say the installation of part of the Sako extraction system ruins the bolt and renders what was the strongest safest two locking lug action ever made - into considerably less. I would recommend a new bolt with the original recessed extractor system.
 
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