Anyone know anything about Carswell Shotguns?

Jonesyatpl

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Hey there.

Trying to figure out chamber length and date of Manufacture for this one.

By my guess, it should be a 2.5" chamber. But measure to the forcing cone, it seems to actually be 2 3/4.

I know a bit of a basic history of the company, founded in Liverpool, became a ltd company after some buyouts, etc. Looking to find a source for serial numbers.

This one is a low serial.

Thanks!

Jonesy

n06bvkO.jpg
 
Does it say 1 1/8 oz on the barrel flats? I was told that guns with the 1 1/8 oz proof were generally, but not always, 2 1/2 " chambers. Of course over the years the chambers could also have been lengthened.
 
Indeed it does say 1 1/8! I figured it was 2 1/2. Has anyone had this general vintage gun (1900-1939) chamber reamed to 2 3/4? I understand the main difference was not really pressure, but paper vs plastic shotshell expansion length.

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Sure would make it much more versatile to be able to use light load 2 3/4 in this versus buying a gamebore 2.5 or Aguila mini shells.

Can anyone recommend a Vancouver/Van island gunsmith to take a peek at it? Just got it 48 hours ago. Should be a fun project!

Not sure if it is worth polishing one this worn, but the blueing is all gone. Nice quality gun, locks up tight, mirror bores.

Thanks!

Jonesy


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Hey there.

Trying to figure out chamber length and date of Manufacture for this one.

By my guess, it should be a 2.5" chamber. But measure to the forcing cone, it seems to actually be 2 3/4.

I know a bit of a basic history of the company, founded in Liverpool, became a ltd company after some buyouts, etc. Looking to find a source for serial numbers.

This one is a low serial.

Thanks!

Jonesy

n06bvkO.jpg

that looks like a normal 2 3/4 chamber, remember the shell is only 2 1/4" and 2 3/4 after firing
 
What did you use to measure the chamber? If what you you is not snug, it might go into the forcing cone a bit not giving a true reading. I use a dowel rod with masking taped wrapped around the end enough to make a good snug fit and then insert it into the chamber. As mentioned, repair the crack. Also, it is not hard to slow rust blue the barrels yourself. Do not have hot tanked with caustic salts. I am surprised though that a gun with that much stock wear and bluing wear has mirror bores. Maybe they have been honed at some point? Has somebody sanded the bluing off already starting to get it prepared for a re-blue?
You plan on shooting thousands of rounds trough it? Buy a flat of RST shells from Prophet River and you'd likely be set for ages if your main use is for hunting.
 
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Yup, I saw the AGI video on re-blueing. Sounds like I’d have a bunch of pieces at the bottom of the hot tank.

Not sure about the honing, but I have a feeling no. Either way they are indeed in good shape. On the road right now, but I found on YouTube a better way to measure the chamber once back.

Don’t worry, if I keep it, my plan is to yank the stock and restore it completely.

Thanks for RST tip. I was looking for gamebore with only a little luck. Not planning on shooting a ton,
More likely when we want to kick it old school on the range. It’s really going to be more of a functional ‘wall hanger’.

EDIT - I'm not sure I want to take this on. I think it may go back up on the EE. Might be a bit beyond my skill and time available:)
 
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My W&C Scott (1906) had the chambers lengthened from an oddball 2 5/8 to 2 3/4". It depends on how much meat is in the barrel, whether they can be safely lengthened or not. On very light guns there's a risk of thinning the barrels too much. If the chambers are measuring 2 3/4" now, then it's probable that they've already been lengthened. The proof marks are pre 1925. Post 1925 the chamber length was stamped on the flats.

Pressure is an issue with modern 2 3/4" shells, at least the American made stuff. The only ammo I'll run through my doubles is Kent or Eley.
 
The business began in 1913 and was last recorded in 1982. My references show the name and address as marked on your gun as having been used 1936-1955 which does not tally with the earlier proof marks which isn't an unusual occurence. I would trust the proof marks to be correct.
As noted, the gun was made with 2 1/2" chambers , proofed for a maximum 1 1/8 oz load. With nice smooth shiny bores on such a well worn gun it surely has had the bores cleaned up and if the chambers are now 2 3/4" that was probably done at the same time. The original bore size on the one in the picture is 13, which corresponds to .710". If the bore now measures over .719" it is oversize and out of proof. If the chambers have been lengthened this also would make the gun out of proof as it has not been reproofed for the thinning of the barrel walls caused by the rebore or for the higher pressures of the 2 3/4" shells. Proof has been mandatory in Britain and the gunmaking European countries for over two centuries, and the barrel is actually subjected to a specified overload to test it's strength. If it passes proof it is stamped accordingly and warranted safe to use. The question on this gun is what is the actual bore measurements now and also what is the wall thickness, especially in the forcing cone area nearest to the chamber and 9" from the breech end? A few gunsmiths who do shotgun barrel work and a few dedicated hobbiests have barrel bore gauges and wall thickness gauges, the only real way to assess what you really have and if it can be considered safe to use and if so, with what ammunition. Do you feel lucky, Pilgrim?
 
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I found this on shotgun world:

William C Carswell established his gun business in 1913 at E1 Exchange Buildings, Liverpool.
In 1920, Carswell bought the businesses of both Hooton & Jones and E&G Higham, giving the latter's address at 4 Chapel Street as the principal trading address.
About 1935 the firm became a limited company, W C Carswell Ltd.
In 1960 the company moved to 19 Old Hall Street.
They ceased to trade in 1982.
 
This gun appears to be made on the coil spring action of William Baker, patent of 1902. This was used extensively during the first quarter of the twentieth century for moderate priced guns and can be found with dozens of different relatively unknown country makers names although seldom with Baker's name. When well made it is a sound action and comparatively inexpensive to produce.
 
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