Anyone using blue loctite to bed AR barrels?

[MartyK2500]

On my current build I have done it.
It may or may not have contributed to sub-moa 5 shot groups.

I did it knowing or should I say thinking, that a barrel change would mean scrapping the upper.
This is where I’d like to check with CGNers previous experiences,
Have you ever dissassembled a barrel from an upper which you had bedded with blue loctite (instead of aeroshell).
I am not talking about the handguard nut here, this one I lightly grease threads with aeroshell, but am talking of smearing barrel extension with blue loctite before inserting into upper.

AR10 barrel getting here soon,
And believe Stag 10 uppers to be more scarce than AR15 uppers, less disposable in a way.

 

[Paddy80]

If your barrel doesn’t fit as tight as you would like it’s better to shim it than bed it. I would not like to buy a gun to find the barrel thread locked to the receiver; that would be annoying. imo.

 

[BioPace]

On my current build I have done it.
It may or may not have contributed to sub-moa 5 shot groups.

I did it knowing or should I say thinking, that a barrel change would mean scrapping the upper.
This is where I’d like to check with CGNers previous experiences,
Have you ever dissassembled a barrel from an upper which you had bedded with blue loctite (instead of aeroshell).
I am not talking about the handguard nut here, this one I lightly grease threads with aeroshell, but am talking of smearing barrel extension with blue loctite before inserting into upper.

AR10 barrel getting here soon,
And believe Stag 10 uppers to be more scarce than AR15 uppers, less disposable in a way.

I'm sure some machinists/mechanics will chime in shortly, but IIRC blue loctite can be broken by heat.

So a: shooting multiple rounds would probably soften it past the point of effectiveness; and b : you would just need to apply some heat to remove it.

I don't think it is the loctite causing the accuracy.

 

[45C]

Blue locktite can be broken by hand, no heat needed.
Finger nail polish will work just as good as blue lock tite. Lol

 

[Armedsask]

I'm sure some machinists/mechanics will chime in shortly, but IIRC blue loctite can be broken by heat.

So a: shooting multiple rounds would probably soften it past the point of effectiveness; and b : you would just need to apply some heat to remove it.

I don't think it is the loctite causing the accuracy.

All Loctite can be broken by heat. Blue Loctite is meant for easily disassembled bolts, simple hand tools will loosen it. Red Loctite can also be broken with hand tools, but it holds better. Heat is a worst case. I never use blue Loctite, no point. Just use red for everything.

Regular thread Loctite does not work well on slip fits, such as a barrel. It needs to be on threads as pressure and lack of air is what cures it, if I recall correctly. You need a bearing retaining compound. Loctite makes some, it's usually green. That said, not sure how it would hold up to the heat.

 

[enefgee]

All Loctite can be broken by heat. Blue Loctite is meant for easily disassembled bolts, simple hand tools will loosen it. Red Loctite can also be broken with hand tools, but it holds better. Heat is a worst case. I never use blue Loctite, no point. Just use red for everything.

Regular thread Loctite does not work well on slip fits, such as a barrel. It needs to be on threads as pressure and lack of air is what cures it, if I recall correctly. You need a bearing retaining compound. Loctite makes some, it's usually green. That said, not sure how it would hold up to the heat.

Or you could just assemble the rifle correctly......

 

[Gunnerlove]

I have used 515 flange sealant, it will cure across a gap of .050" with the proper primer. It works but I don't think it is worth the hassle. I had to bake receivers to get them to separate and the stink was terrible.

Even if it was worth a half MOA (it wasn't) that improvement is only 2.5" at 500m, I can't read wind that well, and lose most of my points in positional shooting, so I stopped caring about chasing the little bits of rifle performance.

 

[b_w.]

I used slip for retaining compound on a few 102s to tighten them up. Not sure it helped accuracy but came apart with a bit oh heat.

 

[MartyK2500]

I am well aware of the debate of its un-usefulness and how I am building things the inappropriate way, or not.
As I said it’s still to debate and I am sure there won’t be many on my side, but the post is not really about this debate.

If anyone else ever actually done it, the real question would be, did the barrel remove simply or was it a struggle that ended up compromising the upper?

ps : I did start using that technique after someone (a person I hold in high regard) suggested I do so.

 

[dieseldog]

#620 green locktite is high heat but would require heat like from a propane torch to soften up and break. I would say it works like a medium strength. The issue again with the Ar is a steel barrel in a aluminum thread and although high alloy aluminum over time seizure is possible and the reason for molly grease or an antiseize on the threads is required. Heavy strength locktite in aluminum threads can rip out the threads as I have experienced in the past on machinery where someone used the wrong locktite just to be extra sure. —-Dieseldog!

 

[ThatM305Guy]

I dont think heat is really going to be your issue. If you're going for long range accuracy, then high volumes of fire (especially with 5 or 10 round mags) is NEVER gonna get your gun hot enough to give you issues. You can get high heat loctite too, which is I think good to around 400 or 450f depending on the grade.

I wouldnt use anything too permanent like a bedding compound because who knows what size your next extension will m
Be. Blue or shim imo

 

[Boomer74]

I was going to use #243 Loctite for my Sterling-102 build, but I had almost 0.005" play...

Hardened brass shims is the route I took.

 

[MartyK2500]

I was going to use #243 Loctite for my Sterling-102 build, but I had almost 0.005" play...

Hardened brass shims is the route I took.

For curiosity sake, could you share where you had got that info to do that? (apply blue Loctite)
I'd like to read more on the process.

I dont think heat is really going to be your issue. If you're going for long range accuracy, then high volumes of fire (especially with 5 or 10 round mags) is NEVER gonna get your gun hot enough to give you issues. You can get high heat loctite too, which is I think good to around 400 or 450f depending on the grade.

I wouldnt use anything too permanent like a bedding compound because who knows what size your next extension will m
Be. Blue or shim imo

Have you ever gone the blue Loctite route yourself?

 

[45C]

Blue lock tight will not require heat.
Op has said blue lock tight.
I’ve used it on muzzle brake(aluminum), Gas Block set screws,scope mount screws.
It removed by hand and didn’t mess up any threads.

 

[ThatM305Guy]

For curiosity sake, could you share where you had got that info to do that? (apply blue Loctite)
I'd like to read more on the process.




Have you ever gone the blue Loctite route yourself?

Not on a barrel, but I have used alot of red and green when machining and sleeving worn bearing fits. It should tell you on the bottle what gap it is workable up to. Not sure about blue, but off the top of my head I think green is good to about a 0.010" gap.....crap. Now I'm questioning myself.....I'm not sure if that's gap or on diameter.

Either way, I'd give blue a try and see how it shakes out. Make sure you have a reaction rod, and some wood blocks though because I can guarantee you're gonna have to tap it out when it comes to removal. If you sparingly oil the extension that would probably help alot.

 

[Teac]

I'm sure some machinists/mechanics will chime in shortly, but IIRC blue loctite can be broken by heat.

So a: shooting multiple rounds would probably soften it past the point of effectiveness; and b : you would just need to apply some heat to remove it.

I don't think it is the loctite causing the accuracy.

temp. ranges are -65 to 300 degrees F

this will come loose from the heat if used on a barrel. there is some super high temperature that I used successfully on my XCR. its red and a paste rather than liquid.

However I dont know exactly what exactly you are loctiting but think its not a good idea to use loctite on an AR barrel

 

[stevey3737]

I would think you would get more consistency truing the face of the upper i have done a few builds now and have not found a barrel extension or upper that was "loose" enough of a fit to think i needed to secure it with retaining compound? and if in fact it was i am not sure a liquid compound would be the answer because how would you know if its sitting true? The compound could be all on one side? I think if i was think along the lines of accuracy knowing the barrel and receiver are in line will go a lot farther? just my honest opinion but that being said and if i did feel the need i think a green retaining compound loctite would be the answer and then somehow ensure the barrel and receiver true as it sets up

 

[ThatM305Guy]

I would think you would get more consistency truing the face of the upper i have done a few builds now and have not found a barrel extension or upper that was "loose" enough of a fit to think i needed to secure it with retaining compound? and if in fact it was i am not sure a liquid compound would be the answer because how would you know if its sitting true? The compound could be all on one side? I think if i was think along the lines of accuracy knowing the barrel and receiver are in line will go a lot farther? just my honest opinion but that being said and if i did feel the need i think a green retaining compound loctite would be the answer and then somehow ensure the barrel and receiver true as it sets up

My thoughts exactly.....along the lines of true-ing the face of a 700 action.