Anyone with a Ross Cadet 1912 want to help me figure out what's wrong with mine?

[louthepou]

Hi folks,

Well, not mine, but a friend's.

Tested it, no sign of any firing pin strike on the shell. Took the bolt apart, and...

I am wondering what the issue is. As far as I can understand, the "step" at the front of the striker is preventing solid contact with the angled part of the firing pin. The firing pin doesn't seem to be worn or deformed, but I don't think there can be any actual contact between the striker and the firing pin. So... what's going on? do I need to weld a wee dab of metal on the firing pin (say, its "elbow"), or file the front of the striker so the step isn't so pronounced?

Anyone has one which you wouldn't mind taking apart and posting pics so we can compare?

Lou

 

[Potashminer]

If you are having troubles, way over my head!! However, go here: https://www.rifleman.org.uk/Ross_cadet_training_rifle.html About half way down the page is a picture of disassembled bolt - different firing pin than what you show in your pictures??? I think?? You do not say your friend's rifle was working and then quit, or perhaps it never worked - so maybe some wrong parts got mixed in?? May not actually be any help to you, but thought that I would try...

 

[jtaylor]

Hi Lou. The 'bolt head' is recessed. When the bolt is out of the rifle the tip of the firing pin should 'stick out' or extrude near the same length
of the recess. Without measuring my guess would be 5 -10 thous but definately not exceed the maximum limit or it will burr the chamber.
The rifle was designed to insert the cartridge into the chamber then home the bolt. So cocks on closing. Check for firing pin burrs too as I think the metal was pretty soft. I have stoned at least one to make it slide easily. John

 

[louthepou]

Potashminer, thanks for that link! Very informative page by Rifleman. Indeed, my bolt has a different pin. But mine is legit, given its channel in the bolt body, so...

And jtaylor, that gives me precious info. I think what I will need is to build a wee bit on the rear "shoulder" of the pin, where the striker... strikes. That way when fully forward, it will push the pin forward enough. More pictures tomorrow with the bolt reassembled before I do anything though.

Again much appreciate the help, folks

 

[matthunt101]

I'll try to pull mine apart in the next day or so and see if I can help you out with some photos....

 

[louthepou]

I'll try to pull mine apart in the next day or so and see if I can help you out with some photos....

That'd be awesome!

 

[matthunt101]

Finally got them, if you need anything else let me know!

I think I need to me a little more vigilant in my cleaning regime.....

 

[louthepou]

Good news!

Thanks to matthunt101's pictures, I felt confident I could fix what had to be fixed, in the right spot. (thanks matthunt101!)

spot weld where the striker impacts the pin, reshaped to size, and, success!

 

[XRCD011]

Just a question and I know nothing about these rifles or what the issue and fix was but while things are all apart could it be a good time to try fabrication of a spare pin ? It looks rather straight forward.

 

[jtaylor]

Hi Lou. I apologize for my response a couple of weeks back. I was tired. You have a good rep on this site and deserve better. What I was trying to point out is the firing pin protrusion on the .22 Ross is significant. The standard max/min for the No.7 rifle is .031/.024 and I'll betcha the ross exceeds the max by 10 thous. I think the pins were made a bit soft so dry firing or any abuse can cause distortion. Of course the most significant flaw on these rifles was the weak extractor - most often found broken and a most difficult item to try to copy or fix. Rarely do you see a good bore as the ammo was destructive at the time and I don't believe cleaning equipment/rods were standard issue. I would like to hear of some firing results if this piece has been tried on a target. I would also like to see a photo of these rifles actually in use/issue if any reader would oblige me. JOHN