Aperture Shaft Question

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Collieman

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Over the winter did a number of mods, shim gas tube etc. so first outing at 100 yds, 8 kliks, no hits. hmmm
But what bothers me is I have a score mark across the face of the aperture shaft at about the mid point, so when I retract the sight it stops when the mark hits the clip cover. Is this normal? Does anyone else have a gouge on their
shaft.
To me the sight is not fully retracted. Comments are appreciated as to what this is and if I should file it down.
Cheers
 
Collieman said:
Great, and this serves what purpose? To let you know you are at the bottom?
Cheers
Click to expand...

Assuming that we're talking about a Norinco M-14 here.

8 clicks up from the bottom for a 100m zero is ultimately where you would like to be, but probably won't be with a Norinco front sight. One of my Norc's zeroed at 17 clicks up from the bottom (even with USGI M1 rear sights), and the other at 26!!! The Norc front sight posts are really tall. So you can do one of three things...

1) live with it
2) switch out to a USGI front sight
3) get out the file and take a little bit off after each shot until your rifle is zeroing at a 100m 8 clicks up from the bottom.
 
Collieman said:
Over the winter did a number of mods, shim gas tube etc. so first outing at 100 yds, 8 kliks, no hits. hmmm
But what bothers me is I have a score mark across the face of the aperture shaft at about the mid point, so when I retract the sight it stops when the mark hits the clip cover. Is this normal? Does anyone else have a gouge on their
shaft.
To me the sight is not fully retracted. Comments are appreciated as to what this is and if I should file it down.
Cheers
Click to expand...

I in no way intend to insult your intelligence as I don't know how familiar you are with the platform etc. So don't take any offense.

You may not be hitting paper at 100 meters because your front post is probably way too high. Mine was almost flush with the tops of the post guards! I had the elevation knob up at 25 clicks and I was still almost hitting the ground in front of the target at 100 meters!

You need to get a small thin file. Bottom out the aperture, then raise it to about 9 clicks. Start shooting groups at 100 meters. You will be way low.
Start filing the front post down. Match the sloped angle of the top of the post. Keep it straight and flush. Shoot another group. File again etc until your groups are right where you are aiming.

Once that is done, leave the aperture raised at where it is which is now 9 clicks from bottom or whatever number you chose.
Hold the elevation knob securely and make sure you do not raise or lower the aperture by turning it as you loosen the screw in the center of it.
Loosen the screw on the elevation knob until you are sure it is not engaging the aperture (raising or lowering it). Rotate the knob until the 100 meter line on the knob is lined up with the line on the receiver next to it.

Then carefully clamp/hold the knob securely and tighten the screw keeping the lines lined up.

You now know to get back to 100 meter zero you are exactly 9 clicks from bottom out. Or simply line up the 100 meter line on the knob with the receiver and you're ready to rock and roll! :rockOn:

Also, once you get on paper you will notice that your average group POI is either to the left or right. Or if you are lucky number 1 in 2000 lol Your windage will be bang on center. You must then address the potential problems of the barrel or flash hider not being in line with the irons.
There is an easy fix for this as well.
 
Sluggo_m14 said:
I have a norc that has a zero 1 click up from bottom-can anything be done?
Click to expand...

You say it is zeroed at 100 meters after 1 click from bottom? If so then
have a couple options I think.
You can leave it and aim low at anything closer than 100 meters or
you can buy a new front sight with a higher blade and start the process I put above.
The only problem with having a zeroed rifle with the aperture bottomed out is that anything closer than 100 meters will be guess work but again with a battle rifle that is only a major issue depending on what you use the rifle for.
If it's to be more on the precision accurate side then I would go the new front sight route so you can fine tune at closer distances.
 
My rifle is shooting about 14 inches high at 100 yards and I am bottomed out.

Where does one find a new (tall) front sight?

Also, my frontsight is canted to the right side a smidge. Any quick fix for that?
 
greg11 said:
My rifle is shooting about 14 inches high at 100 yards and I am bottomed out.

Where does one find a new (tall) front sight?

Also, my frontsight is canted to the right side a smidge. Any quick fix for that?
Click to expand...

Mine was also canted to the right.
It turned out to be the welded on flash suppressor was slighty off to the right.
I'm going to assume this makes your groups shoot way to the right of your point of aim at 100 meters?
If so the quickest fix is to just move the front site over to the right as far as it will go (to the right as you are holding the rifle looking at them)
If your groups are still to the right of your point of aim, move your windage knob to the left a click at a time until your point of impact groups come back to your exact point of aim.
You could go to the extreme, risky and potentially pricey way of drilling the welds out, getting a new suppressor, installing it etc but it's a $400 Chinese battle rifle lol Less is more right? :rockOn:
As for the front post being too short you can look at treelinem14.com, they sell the whole front site post assembly.
Hope this helps man.
If you need any specific guidance just PM me.
I'll help you the best I can.
 
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