Apex FSS for M&P9

Quote: What I'd like to do:
- Clean up the grittiness
- reduce the over-travel
- reduce the trigger pull to 3.5 lbs (+/- 0.5 lbs)
- get a more tactile trigger reset.

I have that trigger - Apex duty kit, factory springs, polish the bits that rub, tweak the trigger bar to increase the reset feel. Folks that shoot it say it feels like a 2 stage rifle trigger with a 1911 break.
 
enefgee said:
Quote: What I'd like to do:
- Clean up the grittiness
- reduce the over-travel
- reduce the trigger pull to 3.5 lbs (+/- 0.5 lbs)
- get a more tactile trigger reset.

I have that trigger - Apex duty kit, factory springs, polish the bits that rub, tweak the trigger bar to increase the reset feel. Folks that shoot it say it feels like a 2 stage rifle trigger with a 1911 break.
Click to expand...

Sounds interesting, although I'm not exactly sure what the "trigger bar" looks like, or where it's located. Is it that curled (for lack of a better term) piece of steel that lifts the sear block? Just a guess on my part. :)
 
Yes, it's the stamped piece of stainless that connects the trigger to the sear on the right hand side of the frame, to increase the felt reset tweak it ever so slightly toward the centre of the frame.
 
enefgee said:
Yes, it's the stamped piece of stainless that connects the trigger to the sear on the right hand side of the frame, to increase the felt reset tweak it ever so slightly toward the centre of the frame.
Click to expand...
Well, I took your advice and I polished the bits that rubbed... and VIOLA, the grittiness disappeared. Amazing what you can do with a bit of emery cloth. ;) I also learned quite a bit in the process: like the sear return
spring is definitely 1/16 inch, the sear housing block at Brownell has the internal lock - which mine does not - and you really gotta make sure you're holding down the sear when you remove the sear pin (freakin little
1/16 spring...). As an added bonus, I am now much more familiar with the workings of my M&P.
 
358 BLR said:
Well, I took your advice and I polished the bits that rubbed... and VIOLA, the grittiness disappeared. Amazing what you can do with a bit of emery cloth. ;) I also learned quite a bit in the process: like the sear return
spring is definitely 1/16 inch, the sear housing block at Brownell has the internal lock - which mine does not - and you really gotta make sure you're holding down the sear when you remove the sear pin (freakin little
1/16 spring...). As an added bonus, I am now much more familiar with the workings of my M&P.
Click to expand...

Well you answered your own question regarding the sear spring.

If you want to get to a 3.5# trigger pull you want to get the Apex Competition Kit. My FS M&P 9MM has the smaller spring in the sear. My 9MM FS was one of the original M&P's shipped. The FS .40cal was cobbled together by a newer bottom purchased from a gunutz member and a 40cal top end purchased from a fellow in the US. It was a police take off complete slide with tired night sights. The barrel had not seen much use. I have four of the guns. Two in 9MM and two in 40cal. Each set consists of a PRO and a FS.

I put the Apex Competition kit in the PRO 9MM and got a crisper 3.5# trigger. I then installed the PRO parts in my FS.
I installed the FSS Trigger Kit in the 40PRO for a friend who traded me the gun later. The FS 40 remains stock and might be my home defense pistol but mainly serves as a back up pistol when I shot IPSC Standard Division and when I shoot our Steel Shoot in the fall. The 9MM PRO shoots IDPA SSP/ESP Divisions when I am not using my CZ 75 Shadowline backed up by my CZ 85 Combat.

The Apex Competition lit will come with both sear springs. Mine did. Choose the one you need and you are good to go. I has the FSS trigger kit in a 40cal Pro. I don't think it is worth the bother frankly. The FSS kit is more expensive, it does provide you with a much shorter trigger reset and no over travel. I doubt there are many shooters who get much benefit out of the shorter reset or lack of over travel. Sitting in front of a TV set feeling the short reset and lack of over travel is one thing. Shooting a match in competition is quite another. I'll let the Master shooters claim they get huge benefits out of reducing the reset by 1/32" and eliminating 1/16th" of over travel. For most when it comes to competition in the Action Shooting sports I doubt it makes much difference and few claim they can feel the shorter reset when shooting. I have never heard the "click" of the reset while shooting you might I don't.

You have ventured into your M&P and by now should have found how easy it is to work on. The gun has several enhancements ovwer the Glock, not the least of which is the embedded steel frame that connects the rails to the rear of the pistol. The affect is to have a much stiffer frame. The slide being lighter reduces the possibility of limp wristing jams. I have seen them occur at matches when right handed shooters are shooting from the left side of walls.

Good luck with your changes. Use proper pin punches and you will do fine. Judge the reset, trigger pull and the sound of the reset in terms of shooting at the range. I believe once the Competition Kit is installed you will be happy on all accounts and you won't be capable of out shooting the gun in your hand. I t will be capable of much more. Mine are..

Take Care

Bob
ps Replacing the front sight is the job for a decent sight pusher and someone more skilled than I . I have a friend who has both and did mine. I have a customized rear sight designed b a friend in Seattle. Their is a 'smith down there who charges $50. to mill out the rear of an M&P Competition sight found on the M&P Pro. The square notch becomes triangl shaped and really speeds front sight acquisition. I only did my 9MM PRO.
 
If you want to make the take up a little smoother for free radius the striker block. I just chucked it in the drill and used a file and sand paper. It will have the same result as the apex usb.
 
Thank you Canuck44:
Sounds like the Apex Competition Enhancement kit is the one for me. The way that kit is described in Apex's own literature leaves one with the impression that it would reduce the trigger pull by 4 lbs
- which would leave me with a 1.5 lb trigger and that would be far too light for my tastes. Apex should really do a better job of detailing the results obtained by using one of their kits. The over-travel
on my trigger currently sits at about 1/4 - 3/16 of an inch; if I could get that down to 1/8 inches I'd be quite happy. As far the trigger reset goes, I don't care if it's more audible ( probably won't hear
it while wearing hearing protection anyway ), I'm hoping to obtain a more tactile response through the trigger itself: a much more discernable "click" that can be felt with the trigger finger. If the distance
the trigger travels to the reset point gets shortened a bit, well that would be a bonus too, but not a deal breaker. I've been considering the installation of the Apex RAM (Reset Assist Mechanism); it's an
easy install, not very expensive and I think it would give me the tactile reset that I am looking for.

By the sounds of it you're a real M&P fan: I mean four M&P pistols pretty much says it all. I too love my M&P 40 and once I get these enhancements installed I think I'll marry it. ;) I must admit that I
have occasionally considered a Glock, but it has been pointed out that 99% of Glock owners wear dresses and the remaining 1% are strongly advised to follow suit - they'd be much happier ( are you
listening Phat Eagle?). :d
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom