AR-15 precision scope set up

J

Julesheb

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montreal, quebec
Hey guys,

Seems to have a problem with my scope adjustment left when zero is done

Ex : zero done at 50m with 2 inches above aiming point. Rifle is sig 400 upper with obviously 0MOA picatinny rail ( one piece with upper ) Scope is Vortex Viper PST gen 2 ( 3-15x 44 ) When its zeroted , have only 6.6 Mil of adjustment left. ( about less than 3/4 tour ). Precision , my mount is the closest possible to the rifle ( about 1/16 to it )

What you guys suggest ? Is there any canadian website that sell 20moa/30moa rail to install on top of upper rail ? Is there any other options ? was planning to try PRS just for fun with it but it seems that im not gonna enjoy my day as much as i tought since i will lack adjusment fast with 600m+ targets.

Thanks verry much

Jules
 
Jules, i wouldn’t double the rail. A better solution is a cantilever mount with built in 20 moa cant. Nikon/Nightforce/Vortex/Spuhr all make them. Most of the retailers should be able to order one if they don’t stock them. Talk to some of the more long range focused retailers.
 
Edmnorth said:
Jules, i wouldn’t double the rail. A better solution is a cantilever mount with built in 20 moa cant. Nikon/Nightforce/Vortex/Spuhr all make them. Most of the retailers should be able to order one if they don’t stock them. Talk to some of the more long range focused retailers.
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yep this, you need a mount with built in cant.
 
zero at 100 or 200 if thats your thing. 50 doesn't make sense. I guess it could make sense, depending on what you want to do. Like a 50/200. But I just think it makes more sense to get an actual zero, at a longer range. and learn where to hold for the closer ranges
 
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Isnt the human factor will have an effect on an actual zero at 100 or 200 m ?

Im sorry but i dont understand how a zero done at 100m or 200m will be more " zeroed " than a zero done at 50m or even 25m. Im not talking about ahooting skills but just zeroing a scope. With the correct infos you will get a ballistic chart for whatever distance you want with correct adjustments ?

Please explain it to me.
 
well you're not wrong as I think about it. Its the DOPE you will follow regardless of your zero. I think of the zero as the place I set my zero stops. So if I zero at 100, and re-set my turrets to base/bottom. Then any time I need to shoot at 100, or know where I am in the range quickly. I just dial it all the way back and I know I'm at 100. I don't see any need to do that at 25/50.

And your scope has a lot of adjustment in it, 22mil if I looked up the right model. You shouldn't be out of adjustment already. but having 16 left over is still a lot to use. That said, I put a 20 and a 30moa mount onto my 2 scopes.
 
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50m zero should only be used to rough in your zero so when you step it back too 100m you'll be hitting paper right away. also AR-15 platforms have a very high sight over bore axis compared to traditional rifle, but that inherent in the design so zeroing so close will only exacerbate the problem.

I don't think you should need any can't with that scope. try zeroing at 100m with your MPI (Main Point of Impact) being 2 inches high of your MPA (Main Point of Aim). this should pretty close to MPA/MPI at 200m and then you can dial from there. you should be left with tons of turret room left, and with that scope holding under at 100m should be a joke.
 
That make sens , i'll try it.

Thanks


GrizzlyLC said:
50m zero should only be used to rough in your zero so when you step it back too 100m you'll be hitting paper right away. also AR-15 platforms have a very high sight over bore axis compared to traditional rifle, but that inherent in the design so zeroing so close will only exacerbate the problem.

I don't think you should need any can't with that scope. try zeroing at 100m with your MPI (Main Point of Impact) being 2 inches high of your MPA (Main Point of Aim). this should pretty close to MPA/MPI at 200m and then you can dial from there. you should be left with tons of turret room left, and with that scope holding under at 100m should be a joke.
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For a precision rifle, you zero at 100 yards or metres since it's far enough away be able to tell if you're 0.1 mil off but close enough to not be affected by environmentals (temp and DA) no matter where you go. Think of it this way, 0.1 mil is roughly 0.36" @ 100 yards, that makes it 0.18" @ 50 yards. Say your AR shoots a nice, even 1 moa 5rd group @ 100 yards. It's much easier to see if your mean poi is 0.36" off in any direction than it is to do the same for 0.18" if you're zeroing at 50 yards/m. If you're just going for a rough "battle" zero, then 50/200 makes sense but 100 is where you zero for a precision rig. Past 100 (200, etc), wind and other environmentals can throw off your zero.
 
rugbydave said:
For a precision rifle, you zero at 100 yards or metres since it's far enough away be able to tell if you're 0.1 mil off but close enough to not be affected by environmentals (temp and DA) no matter where you go. Think of it this way, 0.1 mil is roughly 0.36" @ 100 yards, that makes it 0.18" @ 50 yards. Say your AR shoots a nice, even 1 moa 5rd group @ 100 yards. It's much easier to see if your mean poi is 0.36" off in any direction than it is to do the same for 0.18" if you're zeroing at 50 yards/m. If you're just going for a rough "battle" zero, then 50/200 makes sense but 100 is where you zero for a precision rig. Past 100 (200, etc), wind and other environmentals can throw off your zero.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the explanation. Appreciate
 
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