AR Lubing..
- Thread starter marc4311
- Start date
If your AR is still lubricated from a previous outing, you should be fine ( bolt carrier should look wet)
Lube all shiny(worn) parts, specifically, bolt carrier rails (two top, two bottom), cam pin and slot, hammer face and underside of bolt carrier. Keep gas rings lubed, and shiny ring aroung bolt, as well as the lugs.
bolt face, chamber and bore should be dried before shooting.
that should pretty much cover it, couple drops on charging handle, and slot in receiver where the cam pin turns into and you are good to go.
Sounds like alot but literally takes 60 seconds. and once its done, it is good for probably ~500 rnds. Then you can relube (don't have to clean really) and keep shooting.
Lube all shiny(worn) parts, specifically, bolt carrier rails (two top, two bottom), cam pin and slot, hammer face and underside of bolt carrier. Keep gas rings lubed, and shiny ring aroung bolt, as well as the lugs.
bolt face, chamber and bore should be dried before shooting.
that should pretty much cover it, couple drops on charging handle, and slot in receiver where the cam pin turns into and you are good to go.
Sounds like alot but literally takes 60 seconds. and once its done, it is good for probably ~500 rnds. Then you can relube (don't have to clean really) and keep shooting.
Here's a Bushmaster manual. I don't think you need to do such a detailed cleaning every time you shoot it but it gives you an idea of what needs to be lubed and what should be dry.
http://www.bushmaster.com/electronic-documents/operation-manual/opmanual.pdf
http://www.bushmaster.com/electronic-documents/operation-manual/opmanual.pdf
dangertree
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It should take about 30 seconds to lube correctly. Do it on the line if you wish.
Fraser and Dangertree are 100% right. This is something you can do right before you start feeding rounds into your mag.
A drop or two of oil in each appropriate location smeared with a fingertip, and then work the action a little, and you're good to go.
Once you've done it once or twice (and stopped to think about how the action actually functions), you'll find that it all makes a lot of sense, and you can get it done in what seems like no time at all. If you do it after cleaning (after you've fired), it'll be ready for you next time you go to the range.
A drop or two of oil in each appropriate location smeared with a fingertip, and then work the action a little, and you're good to go.
Once you've done it once or twice (and stopped to think about how the action actually functions), you'll find that it all makes a lot of sense, and you can get it done in what seems like no time at all. If you do it after cleaning (after you've fired), it'll be ready for you next time you go to the range.
Any AR type action should ALWAYS be cleaned and relubed after use. Firing even a few rounds introduces ash and carbon into the gas seal rings and passages. The stuff takes a 'set' overnight with unpredictable results next time the rifle is fired and increased wear. In the rifle team, we quickly learned that being lazy and not cleaning & oiling the bolt sometimes led to random stoppages on the first few mags the next day. Not every time, and not every gun. But just enough that not being lazy pretty much eliminated the problem. LCV means cleaning the kit as well as owning and using it.
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Nissan_Ranger is quite right. If you let the carbon that is introduced by the direct impingement system site overnight, it can cause small hiccups...and is much more difficult to clean off later. Even if pressing demands on your time are present, at the very least a once-over with the chamber brush and a quick wipe with a well oiled patch is imperative.
Marc...
What I do is pull the rear takedown pin, allowing the upper to hinge forward on the lower. I then remove the bolt without actually removing the charging handle (old habits from cleaning in the field).
Field strip the bolt (remove firing pin retaining pin, firing pin, cam pin, and bolt assembly). At a later time you will briefly remove the charging handle and then re-insert it.
Oil (and probably smear around) the following areas:
-Gas rings on bolt, bolt lugs, sides of bolt, cam pin sleeve (NOT THE BOLT FACE OR EXTRACTOR CLAW)
-Cam pin
-Bolt carrier rails (two top two bottom)
-Surfaces that bolt carrier rails bear on inside of receiver
-Top and bottom of charging handle (lightly)
By this time, you'll have the bolt carrier group back together (re-assembling as you oil avoids losing parts). Replace the bolt carrier in the upper receiver, and then cycle the action. You'll also be doing your test after assembly...you do that after every time you strip the weapon, don't you? This will involve more cycling of the action. All of this cycling will help to evenly spread that fine coat of lubrication to all the appropriate places.
Essentially what you've done is applied a fine coat of good quality gun oil (or teflon loaded CLP) to the areas where metal on metal friction may occur.
Dumping a pile of oil onto the components and then wiping it off is messy...I will normally just semi-saturate a 2"X4" patch with gun oil, and then smear it onto the appropriate areas. The exception to this is the gas rings and the bolt carrier rails. They benefit from a little bit more oil.
All of this said, do not over-lube. Cold temperatures will make that lube like molasses, and if your weapon is dribbling oil out of every orifice, it will attract so much grit that it'll feel like you've got gravel in between the bolt carrier and the receiver.
Marc...
What I do is pull the rear takedown pin, allowing the upper to hinge forward on the lower. I then remove the bolt without actually removing the charging handle (old habits from cleaning in the field).
Field strip the bolt (remove firing pin retaining pin, firing pin, cam pin, and bolt assembly). At a later time you will briefly remove the charging handle and then re-insert it.
Oil (and probably smear around) the following areas:
-Gas rings on bolt, bolt lugs, sides of bolt, cam pin sleeve (NOT THE BOLT FACE OR EXTRACTOR CLAW)
-Cam pin
-Bolt carrier rails (two top two bottom)
-Surfaces that bolt carrier rails bear on inside of receiver
-Top and bottom of charging handle (lightly)
By this time, you'll have the bolt carrier group back together (re-assembling as you oil avoids losing parts). Replace the bolt carrier in the upper receiver, and then cycle the action. You'll also be doing your test after assembly...you do that after every time you strip the weapon, don't you? This will involve more cycling of the action. All of this cycling will help to evenly spread that fine coat of lubrication to all the appropriate places.
Essentially what you've done is applied a fine coat of good quality gun oil (or teflon loaded CLP) to the areas where metal on metal friction may occur.
Dumping a pile of oil onto the components and then wiping it off is messy...I will normally just semi-saturate a 2"X4" patch with gun oil, and then smear it onto the appropriate areas. The exception to this is the gas rings and the bolt carrier rails. They benefit from a little bit more oil.
All of this said, do not over-lube. Cold temperatures will make that lube like molasses, and if your weapon is dribbling oil out of every orifice, it will attract so much grit that it'll feel like you've got gravel in between the bolt carrier and the receiver.
