Are these factory Remington sights ?

FatCatsDad

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Looking at this barrel and can't say I've seen an 870 with these sights from the factory.

Could someone more knowledge chine in and confirm these arr factory or not factory.

Thanks.

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I believe theyre Tritium which should be easy to check and its hard to tell but Im seeing writing on the one pic that may actually say Trigicon. It does however have a shelf life but either way theyre aftermarket and not original. They may not glow any longer as the shelf life of the tritium is around 10 years IMS
 
I think factory sights were installed better.
Yes, that and I've seen hundreds of factory barrels and never remember seeing a set like this.

I like them but hesitant to do a deal for it as it is 2 provinces away.

I hate to spend the money only to find out the sights are canted.

Then it's garbage at worst or a pepper plant stake at best.

I couldn't in good conscious sell it.

I'm just finishing up with this one, a Wingmaster 28" vent rib, rib removed, chopped to 18.75" and threaded it for Rem. chokes.

I'm stuck on the front sight.
I've got no bits or taps for a bead.....or a bead.

If I could get a bead installed I wouldn't be looking at other barrels.

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I always preferred having the barrel on an action when locating a sight... you can do it using the flats on each side of the barrel ring but it's trickier as they are seldom parallel.
 
Easy way to locate bead: get a piece of dowel or wine cork that fits. Tape on a nail or toothpick. Insert in barrel. Rotate while looking across the receiver until you see nail/ toothpick in the right spot, mark. Someone else has to rotate while you look, so make sure to check the chamber! 😆

Fatcatsdad, I have a few spare beads off Savages etc..... can send you one if you want. 3/32 bit should give you a large enough hole. Tap in with epoxy. Bubba approved!
 
Some sort of old school Trijicon or even LPA sights. Not factory Remington. Strange how it seems the rear sight is replaceable from the base by forward or rearward movement (rather than traditional left to right dovetail). You wouldn’t be able to adjust for windage if they weren’t installed true to bore.

I like to install shotgun sights (especially soldered rifle sights) perpendicular to the flat sides of the receiver using precision levels and squares. The flat part of a barrel lug would be great as Dennis said, but it is a tight spot to reference for most and sometimes manufacturers tolerances will make it seem slightly canted. Using the top flat channel on receivers can be a guessing game at best, especially with Remingtons, or guns that have been refinished. The front of the channel will be level, but as you move backward it will change one way or the other. Then you need to ask yourself, which section is true? Who knows…

Taylor C.
 
I would just have the barrel drilled and tapped for a bead, particularly after all the work you put into it. Not an expensive job if you can’t do it yourself, certainly cheaper than buying another barrel.
 
I would just have the barrel drilled and tapped for a bead, particularly after all the work you put into it. Not an expensive job if you can’t do it yourself, certainly cheaper than buying another barrel.
I can do it, but at my age buying more tools doesn't make sense.
 
Some sort of old school Trijicon or even LPA sights. Not factory Remington. Strange how it seems the rear sight is replaceable from the base by forward or rearward movement (rather than traditional left to right dovetail). You wouldn’t be able to adjust for windage if they weren’t installed true to bore.

I like to install shotgun sights (especially soldered rifle sights) perpendicular to the flat sides of the receiver using precision levels and squares. The flat part of a barrel lug would be great as Dennis said, but it is a tight spot to reference for most and sometimes manufacturers tolerances will make it seem slightly canted. Using the top flat channel on receivers can be a guessing game at best, especially with Remingtons, or guns that have been refinished. The front of the channel will be level, but as you move backward it will change one way or the other. Then you need to ask yourself, which section is true? Who knows…

Taylor C.

I think using a straight edge and drawing a pencil line connecting the center of the 3 optical rail mounting holes right down to the end of the barrel should give you top dead center of the barrel.

This will work for the time being.

.177 copper BB and a drop of JB Weld.
Some small needle nose pliers aided in placement on my pencil line. 1000037604.jpg
 
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