Are uberti / pietta 1851 navy parts interchangeable with Euroarms / Armi San Paolo?

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walter23

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I need a cylinder lockup part (parts sites call it a "bolt"), as the one in my .44 cal 1851 navy (made by Armi San Paolo / Euroarms) broke.

Unfortunately Euroarms has been out of business for some time and I can't find parts for their revolvers.

I have looked at numrich and a few other places and found Uberti and Pietta parts that look similar. Anybody know if these parts are generally interchangeable because made to same specs as replicas, or not?

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Often with fine fitting with indian stone or super fine file they will all interchange. Only problem is some of the dimensions are smaller or bigger by a few thou, so it can change the timing or make the gun a hair trigger if you change the sear.
 
Should be able to hand fit them. I’ve fit them to a variety of older makes by various makers back when I was tuning revolvers. Take your time and don’t rush anything.
 
walter23 said:
I need a cylinder lockup part (parts sites call it a "bolt"), as the one in my .44 cal 1851 navy (made by Armi San Paolo / Euroarms) broke.

Unfortunately Euroarms has been out of business for some time and I can't find parts for their revolvers.

I have looked at numrich and a few other places and found Uberti and Pietta parts that look similar. Anybody know if these parts are generally interchangeable because made to same specs as replicas, or not?

M7EGxML.jpg


NdIAc92.jpg
Click to expand...

Sometimes they do not. I own a Hawes 1851 that was made by Armi San Paolo. Likely the same gun that you own. I ordered a new cylinder arbor from Midwest Gunworks, because I do not like the set screw feature on the Hawes' arbor. They only had the Pietta arbor. It turns out that the treard size is not the same. It cannot be fitted.

OTOH, I ordered a new spring and wedge made for an original Colt from Deer Creek, and they dropped right in, without any fitting required. But not all Colt parts will fit, as nipples also use a different tread dimension.
 
I have a Centennial Arms Belgian made 1860. This was one of the first wave of reproductions. The cylinder pin was ruined when I got it. Ordered a reproduction, and the threads were different. Turned out the Centennial was made with Imperial, not metric, threads. Made a replacement.
Locking bolts are pretty much universal, subject to hand fitting. It is also possible to make one from scratch. I did this to repair a handmade single action revolver.
 
Does Dixie ship to Canada? I tried checking out but got a $0 shipping option and got wondering. No time to call them at the moment.
 
> It is also possible to make one from scratch. I did this to repair a handmade single action revolver.

I'm far from a machinist but would give it a try if I knew what material to start with. Any suggestions for the kind of metal stock to use? My implements are dremel and hand file and I suspect with a day of swearing and patience I could make it work out.
 
tiriaq said:
I have a Centennial Arms Belgian made 1860. This was one of the first wave of reproductions. The cylinder pin was ruined when I got it. Ordered a reproduction, and the threads were different. Turned out the Centennial was made with Imperial, not metric, threads. Made a replacement.
Locking bolts are pretty much universal, subject to hand fitting. It is also possible to make one from scratch. I did this to repair a handmade single action revolver.
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That's because the Belgian company made these Colts reproductions on the original tooling Colt provided them way back. Just newer materials.
 
walter23 said:
> It is also possible to make one from scratch. I did this to repair a handmade single action revolver.

I'm far from a machinist but would give it a try if I knew what material to start with. Any suggestions for the kind of metal stock to use? My implements are dremel and hand file and I suspect with a day of swearing and patience I could make it work out.
Click to expand...

I used a piece of steel salvaged from a mower blade. Heated the blade in the coals of a wood fire, letting the fire burn out to anneal. Used hand tools, except for the hole. After it was soft fitted, heated it red and quenched in oil. To draw the temper, I flashed off the oil, to produce a spring temper. Having a broken one to copy really helps. The bolt was for one of these revolvers. Had to make the ejector assembly for the other. These revolvers were made in the early 50s by a gentleman who was born in the 1860s.

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You want to exercise caution with a new barrel though. I've got one that tried to shed it's barrel. Maybe European threads in an American pistol was a factor. I didn't catch that in time in hindsight.
It had been nicely worked over with a new cylinder and internals too.
Just a friendly thought, why compromise a fine pistol? An email could likely verify the TPI and size.
Cheers Tok
 
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