Article: Safe Loads with Your Chronograph

John Y Cannuck

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Safe Loads with Your Chronograph
There's really no excuse for
the serious shooter not to
own a chronograph these
days, with basic, accurate units selling
for not much more than the
price of a box of some "premium"
rifle bullets. Chronographs do all
sorts of things for us, but perhaps
their most important job is to make
handloading safer.
How do they do that? Well, any
handloader who doesn't own a
chronograph has read that speeds
vary in different firearms. There are
lots of reasons for this: tighter or
looser chambers and bores, different
components, different barrel
lengths, etc. But few of us really believe
it until we start using a chronograph.
And even then we sometimes
don't. I've lost count of the shooters
who've run their loads over my
chronograph and have been extremely
disappointed in the real
world speed, or those who've gotten
different results than I've published
in some magazine. More often than
not, they want to argue with my
chronograph, instead of accepting
the fact that "results will vary."
However, one thing is certain about
chronographing home-grown loads:
If the speeds from your firearm are
significantly higher than those of
similar loads in most loading manuals,
then the pressures are higher –
and probably too high. Too many
handloaders assume that such results
mean they own that happy something
called a "fast barrel."
Yes, some barrels will be faster or
slower than others – but if they
consistently show results a lot faster
than normal, then pressures are
higher than normal. Very few barrels
do this anymore. Instead the
problem (and it is a problem, one
that can blow your hand off ) usually
lies in either the lot of powder
or the particular bullet. Some lots of
powder can be significantly hotter
than others, and the best way to
find out is through the chronograph,
not traditional "pressure
signs." These signs – stiff bolt lift,
ejector-hole marks on the head of
the case, loose primer pockets –
generally only occur after pressures
are too high already, sometimes way
too high. So how much lower
should the load be reduced to make
it safe? You don't know unless you
have a chronograph.
Thirty years ago pressures didn't
vary much from bullet to bullet, but
today they do. Ultra-long copperjacketed
bullets such as the Swift
Scirocco tend to create noticeably
more pressure than the same weight
and diameter Hornady InterLock,
which generally has a shorter bearing
surface of less sticky gilding metal.
With a chronograph you can tell
when you're getting too much
velocity – and hence pressure.
Therefore, the safe handloader compares
previously published data for
the sort of load he's working
up – and he doesn't use just one
source, but several, one reason loaddata.
com is so valuable. If he's loading
for the .270 Winchester, for
instance, using a 140-grain bullet
and Hodgdon H-4831 powder, he
finds that most maximum loads for
the .270 stop at 3,000 fps or a little
less. So he knows that if his particular
rifle produces much more than
3,000 fps, the pressures are too
high, even if no traditional "pressure
signs" show up during his shooting.
One problem here is that some
loading manuals do not list muzzle
velocities from the barrels they used
during pressure testing. Instead they
work up the loads in a pressure barrel,
then shoot and chronograph the
same loads in a sporting rifle for
publication. These barrels usually
show somewhat lower velocities, because
they often have larger chambers
and bores than pressure barrels.
This is one reason I trust the muzzle
velocities listed by Hodgdon,
Nosler, Sierra and Western
(Ramshot) more than some others.
One big advantage in using a
chronograph to develop safe data is
that you don't ruin cases, as sometimes
happens when developing
loads the old-fashioned way. Primer
pockets don't get loose when you
look at the numbers, rather than
guess by bolt lift or how easily the
next primer seats. So in the long
run using a chronograph to develop
safe loads also saves you money!
www.loaddata.com
Bench Topics
John Barsness

Using a chronograph to develop loads will
prevent blowing primers, and maybe an eye.
 
My question is this:

Who cares if pressures are above specs, if everything else is OK? If you get 10 loads out of brass, no sticky bolt or other problems, and accuracy is good, who cares? IPSC-ers do it all the time. So do the benchrest crowd. And wildcatters. This is where the 357 & 44 magnums came from - +P loadings of the 38 & 44spl. Same for the 45-70/450 marlin, the 454 casull, and many others.

Should you load to some arbitrary spec someone invented, or to the real capabilities of YOUR actual equipment? As long as you're willing to assume liability, and know what to look out for you should be fine.
 
Are you an engineer?

Ever hear about metal fatigue? Fracture mechanics? These proven properties of steel and other metals show that whats safe to do once or even a 100 times may not be safe to do a 1000 times. Or it may be safe a 1000 times but not 5000 or 10000 times.

All those loads you describe came about because they are based on OLD calibers developed with OLD weaker actions in mind. The hotted up versions were carefully developed for use in MODERN actions.

The problem lies in knowing the REAL limitations of your equipment. The commercial load specs are the real SAFE limitations of ALL firearms built to the SAAMI spec for that calibre.

If there is a failure of a firearm the odds are good that it will be catastrophic. Thats engineering for "blows up in your face/hands". Would you really want to take that chance or be the one that suggested it was ok for someone else to take it?

I'm sitting here with a broken ankle (a relatively minor event in the scheme of things) and I know that I never want to lose the use of any of my extremities, even temporarily, again. Let alone something like my eyes.

The real message here is:
Don't exceed the tested maximums without a LOT of REAL knowledge. I have two engineering degrees and more than 14 years of practical experience in applying engineering to the real world and I wouldn't just go exceeding loads without a lot of careful analysis, while relying on flattened primers and stretched brass to warn me if I'm going to have an anti-personnel mine go off in my hands.

Brass can be so soft it stretches after one SAFE use (See some Federal military 5.56) or so hard that it doesn't stretch even at pressures WAY beyond what you'd want to be holding. Or the design of the chamber/bolt may be such that the brass is supported fully in which case the stress is transmitted directly to the rifle and the brass won't have enough stretch to be worrisome until the chamber ruptures, or the action fails.

If you want to do that in the privacy of your life please feel free to do so and take responsibility for it. That means having your wife and family understand that YOU are solely responsible for any loss of life or limb, so they won't be tempted to sue the reloading and firearms companies. It also means that you don't fire those loads when there are other people near you. If your rifle fails I don't want to be the one eating the shrapnel.

You can make your own choice to ignore what is known to be safe and work in ignorance, BUT please don't minimize the risk of doing so when advising others.
 
Rapt said:
The problem lies in knowing the REAL limitations of your equipment.
My point exactly. And there is no one way to do that. 'pressure signs,' speeds, or anything.

Unless you ARE an engineer, in a lab, will all sorts of expensive equipment, it's all just a semi-educated shot in the dark.
 
Not true, traditional pressure signs are next to useless without very careful controls which the average person is not equipped to make. However chrony is very useful in telling you when you are at or near the limit of pressure for a cartridge.

Some work was done and a very good article written for (IIRC) "Handloader" not so long ago that showed that of all the methods reloaders use the chrony is the only consistently accurate and reliable way of determining if your loads are overpressure or not. There was a long thread about it here, that a search might turn up.

Testing was done using proper pressure equipment and the correlation was very high. The other methods showed next to no correlation between the result and the actual pressure. Some loads showed signs well below the pressure spec for the ammo and others showed no signs at pressures way over the spec.

They also showed that primer brand (not type) changes could affect pressures dramatically (as much as 13,000 psi) and that these differences showed in the chrony results and the chrony measured changes were proportional to the pressure changes.

Thats enough to prove that the article presented above is useful and factual. Don't exceed the speeds listed in loading tables unless you like gambling with things you know nothing about. The traditional signs don't tell you anything useful about the REAL pressures and are a total crap shoot, the chrony is the best tool available to the average user.
 
I have a Shooting Chrony Beta for many years. Two weeks ago I took it back to their Mississauga office for recalibration. They found that the unit was recording bullet speed 180 fps slower than where it should be.

Now that my loads are 100-120 fps over the limits. Well it is better knowing the facts than not. I have some work cut out for the summer.

If you have one of these babies, get it recalibrated. It is free and only takes 30 minutes.

Danny
 
For those of you that have not had a kaboom, there are a few here on the board that have.
I hate to admit it, but mine was a result of my own foolishness.
It's not nice, scary as hell, and can be both fatal, and cause life changing injuries. I was lucky on that score, it cost me a new barrel.
Todd Bartell came very close to losing an eye. and had pieces embedded in his truck if I remember right. Don't know if he ever figured out what went wrong.
If you are flirting with max loads, ask yourself why. Do you really need fifty or even a hundred more feet per second? Will it really make that much real world difference?
Don't kid yourself by studying charts that you can make your firearm into something more than it was intended to be. If you want a 458win mag, go buy one! Don't try to turm your 45-70 into one.
There are in that example (45-70) three levels of performance for different actions. Stick to them! Don't use Ruger level loads in your Marlin, and don't use Marlin level loads in a trapdoor or other weaker arm.
It's not worth your life, it's not worth your eye sight, and it's not worth your hands either.
 
Only safe way short of a pressure gun to load close to max is to use a micrometer, measure the case just ahead of the rim before and after firing at the same location, index, on the case. If there is ANY expansion at that point, the load is too hot. All you need is a good micrometer that measure at least to 1/1000". This from Ken Waters
 
I use my chrony all the time when working up a load

Ill start a couple grains below the average max load in the manuals for a given powder.

Ill work up until I match factory ballistic velcotity (ie 30-06 180 gr. 2700 fps) . I wont go looking for 2800+ fps, Id buy a 300 Mag
 
I do own a chrony,but since velocities in loading manuals can vary by 100fps to 200fps using the exact same components,I don't try to estimate pressures by velocity alone.However if a load produces a velocity that exceeds all of my manuals by 100fps or more,I do usually back off the load a bit.If the velocity is below the posted velocities in all of my manuals,and no traditional pressure signs are evidentI can rest assured that the load is quite mild and work it up some.If the load produces velocities above those in some manuals,but below those in others,I depend on traditional pressure signs to determine if the load is safe in my rifle.
 
OPC X6 said:
Only safe way short of a pressure gun to load close to max is to use a micrometer, measure the case just ahead of the rim before and after firing at the same location, index, on the case. If there is ANY expansion at that point, the load is too hot. All you need is a good micrometer that measure at least to 1/1000". This from Ken Waters


FWIW, this is the method used by Sierra and nosler in their older load manuals for determining pressure. They loaded up until the point where they got case head expansion.

When I'm loading, I load to the point of maximum accuracy, which is usually quite hot, but somewhat below the max listed charges and speeds.

I'm still of the opinion that there is no one way to determine the pressures of your gun. Going simply be speed, primer condition, or whatnot is always going to be a generalized solution. Load to the point your rifle likes, and be satisfied.
 
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