Babbit bars.....?

quinnbrian

quinnbrian

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Hello everyone,
I've come across 12x5 pound bars of Babbit. My question what do i use it for....?
I guess I need to by a lead hardness kit and test my lead hardness and if its too soft add some battit to the mix?
Just asking...I've never had/used it before.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
Brian
 
Babbitt has tin, lead, copper, antimony and arsenic in it. Some with silver in it sells for $20 a pound. Do you know what yours was used for? It can be added to make harder bullets.
50/50 with lead you will have an alloy of about 17 bhn.
1/3 / 2/3 lead = about 14 bhn
1/4 / 3/4 lead = about 12 bhn
 
Babbit could be one of a number of alloys. Some are stamped with the grade. Knowing the grade you can use it with other sources of lead to make an alloy that suits your need. #8 can be used to bring range scrap up to a better hardness but you have to make some assumptions about your range scrap.

If you have more than a few pounds of babbit, it might be very worthwhile to get a metallurgical analysis. There are two types of babbit grades. One is tin based and one is lead based. Some lead based alloy's can be used effectively to add Sn and Sb to good values imitating Lyman #2, others can be a waste of effort as they add too much Sb to get a good Sn amount.

If the price was right, mix it in and watch the mould for fill out. Use only as much of your special alloy as you need to get nice crisp bullets and stretch your supply as far as possible. Hope this adds value to your project.
 
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I just re read your post. 60lbs of linotype (which I think is approxiamtely #8) bought new from Canada Metals would be about $360. Resale value is 50% or so.
 
The only number on the bar , are on the back stamped...
The 11 bars say Federated Genco Babbitt Metal. On the back : RPH 9355
And the 1 bars says Royal Heavy Pressure Federated Metals Canada LTD. On the back : /4522/.
Does that help any on what type they are.
I've looked on the net....can't find anything on these to Canadian Company's, probably out of business.
Wasn't thinking of selling, but might be interested in trades... :)
 
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I picked up 25 of these bar's at a local scrap yard for $0.45/lb

DSCF0001_zpsersp9l5w.jpg


DSCF0002_zpsdjnnqd3h.jpg


I got it analized and looked up the number's on the back and it came back with this



http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/babbittrotonickel.htm
 
zuke said:
I picked up 25 of these bar's at a local scrap yard for $0.45/lb

DSCF0001_zpsersp9l5w.jpg


DSCF0002_zpsdjnnqd3h.jpg


I got it analized and looked up the number's on the back and it came back with this



http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/babbittrotonickel.htm
Click to expand...

That's the same company name and writing on the front of my bars, but I can't make out the number on the back of yours.I took a look at the web page you linked and @ $17.99 a pound I guess, we both got, one hell of a deal!!
Thanks
Brian
 
Awesome! Now use thise superior math skills (or a spreadsheet) to maximize your fund.

Yomomma can correct me, but IIRC range scrap (RS) and wheel weights (WW) have low tin, so if you can blend for 1-2% tin using #7 (high pressure) or #8 (royal) composition you'll end up with nice fill out and hard bullets. My limited experience compared to some others, has been to use a ratio RS:WW:babbitt of 10:5:3 and for RS:BB 6:1. This should result in a serviceable bullet for most applications and stretch the supply.
 
Wheel weights in general have been referred to as the perfect lead for bullet casting. There are two camps on tin. One says add tin if you are not happy with mold fill out. The others says that tin:antimony ratio should be 1:1. So you are either adding tin or antimony to balance the ratio. This all has to do with how lead ages and either time hardens or time softens. To complicated for me.

I add about 1% tin to my wheel weights and then I keep turning up the lead heat until I get the bullets I want.

Lots of opinions out there...grab the one that suits your type of shooting.
 
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