Barel moving around a bit on fairly new Savage 10FP

mr.rhtuner

mr.rhtuner

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Hey guys, today as I was putting on my new cheek pad from Blackhawk I noticed that my rifle stock and barrel seem to move around a bit.

I've just noticed it but I can wobble the barrel and the stock together quite a bit.

If I grab the end of the stock and the end of the barrel, I can move the whole barrel with safety a few mm's forward and backward. Grabbing the 'free floating barrel' portion with the stock, I can get the stock to touch barrel with ease.

I'm guessing this is not normal correct?

I just got the rifle less then a month ago brand new and never have taken it apart.

Any ideas what I should do? I'd try to pull it apart but not sure where I should start or what I have to do.


I have the same stock as in this picture
savage_rifle_10FLP_SV01058.jpg
 
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It is quite common for molded stocks to flex quite a bit.Depending on how tight the action screws are,you may even be able to move the barreled action ahead and back slightly due to clearance at the recoil lug.I would check the action screws for torque,but your stock and action are probably quite normal.
 
ok well looking it over, the 3 allen bolts on the bottom of the stock where fairly loose(2 that secure the trigger/guard and one bolt close to tip of stock). I took the proper size allen and tightened them fairly well where the 'movement' and play has gone now and its more rigid.


Do I have to tighten them to torque spec? Could there be a possibility more screws are loose somewhere inside the stock or anything else important?
 
I have a savage 10 FP as well and have taken the stock and action apart for cleaning. Those bedding screws have to be very tight! If you take your action off that stock, you will see aluminum bedding blocks that your action will rest against when fitted to the stock. I don't use a tork wrench, but I do tighten those two bedding bolts as much as I can with my driver.
 
Torque screws to aprox 50-55 inch-pounds (should do it). There are only 2 bolts that hold the stock onto the action, the other which I believe is the rear; holds the trigger guard.
 
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Bed the action instead of torquing the screws. Once bedded, the action will no longer move in the stock even without the actions screws. Action screws only need to be hand tight.

I believe that action screws are there to keep stock and action from falling apart, not as structural members. When the action can move in the stock, the recoil lug is not helping thus making the action screws take the recoil load.

The recoil lug is what holds the action in place against the recoil forces.

Action screws are not strong components and will stretch and bend. This leads to all manner of shooting headaches and flyers.

Once bedded stress free, open the barrel channel so there is plenty of clearance around the barrel. That stock will allow you to shoot as well as the rifle can IF you do some basic prep.

The pillars in the stock are really robust and need no further mods.

Jerry
 
An epoxy impregnated with Steel is gooped into the areas where the action rests on the stock. The action is installed with a snug but not tight pressure from the actions screws. The action MUST be level during the curing process.

once the epoxy cures, the action is taken out and you get a mirror image of the action in the stock. Essentially, the bedding is now a glove fit to the action. I bed with no gaps around the recoil lug.

That is what holds your action in place and accuracy/consistency improves.

Google rifle bedding or visit 6mmBR.com for lots of articles and pics.

Like most things, the process is simple but doing it well takes a bit of patience and practise. It is all in the prep.

You can find two syringe tubes of epoxy steel at Cdn tire, home hardware etc. Usually by Lepages but Devcon is also excellent. The Lepages has a short working time so have everything ready to go before you mix. The Devcon is usually very slow cure.

You will need to use a proper release agent on the metal parts. I use PVA - stuff used in making fibreglass products. Some use shoe polish, PAM, etc.

The biggest single improvement you can make to the shootability of your rifle.

Jerry
 
Bedding is tricky. If your release agent is not good, the rifle is glued together. I use a pressure can of silicon mold release. PAM failed for me when they changed the formulation. paste floor wax works well.

If you wnat to do this, I suggest buying can of Defcon F Aluminum. (Sold be weight, so more goop in the aluminum can than the steel can.)

I urge you to start with a clunker 22. Cooey 22 rilfes are good. Remove some wood to make room for the epoxy. Don't forget to put release agent on the action screws.

Do you know a full bore taregt rifle shooter. he might be able to show you how its done. It is the kind of project where watching it done a coupe of times is a good idea. You can see how to tape off certain areas.
 
Thanks guys for the help.

The rifle bedding looks interesting but knowing me I'd probably ruin my rifle somehow as I barely have patience for model cars lol.
Just watched a video on it, doesn't look too bad but I'd rather see a professional do it the first time around before I would attempt it.


I'll have to go buy the local gun shop to have my 3 screws torqued properly as I have a torque wrench but it's in ft.lbs
Thank you for all the help and advice
 
eg6ajk said:
Conversion:
12 IN/LB = 1 FT/LB

ft/lb = in/lb / 12
4.6ft/lb=55/12
Click to expand...


Perfect to know man....too bad my torque wrench has the lowest setting of 20ft.lbs :runaway:

I tightened the stock hand tight and took the rifle to the range today. Still all solid but we'll see after a few trips to the range if they come loose again or not.
 
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