Barrel break In and load development
- Thread starter Sparky800
- Start date
ryanshaw44
CGN Regular
I was worried about barrel break in and did the whole procedure. Then read stuff from mcmillan and others that stated that it was BULL####. They're theory was that when you have a new barrel, shoot clean , shoot clean and do the break in procedure that keep on stripping out the barring surface that you need for the bullet to travel on. Which then is worse then just shooting it is if is was "broken in".. In my readings other barrel makers stated the same thing. I cant remember who. I really don't know. But from everything I read I'm leaning towards it don't matter. If you really search forums and the net i'm sure you'll find the same articles.
I found it went both ways but in the end I looked at the info and theory that made most sense to me.
Try the OCW (Optimal Charge Weight) method for load development, search it on google. It was the fastest method for me. I tried it AFTER firing hundreds of rounds, and found my load/sweet spot in only 24 rounds. DOH!! One powder, I went with Varget finally after trying others, one OAL, 8 different charge weights, done! As far as barrel break in... do what feels right based on the info available. Shilen said yeah sure go ahead if you want to, but it's not necessary. Same with Cryogenic treatment, just to throw that out there...
paperslayer
Regular
- Location
- Chilliwack
new factory barrel or new match barrel?
if it is a match barrel just shoot the thing and clean it after the first 50 or so, then only clean it when you need to. I have gone 250 round matches without cleaning. if it is a factory barrel, clean it to keep it from rusting...not gonna make it shoot better.
if it is a match barrel just shoot the thing and clean it after the first 50 or so, then only clean it when you need to. I have gone 250 round matches without cleaning. if it is a factory barrel, clean it to keep it from rusting...not gonna make it shoot better.
Hotwheels81
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- South of GP
Clean the barrel
Take your test loads to the range
Come back and clean it when your done.
Pretty simple.
There is no one correct answer.
Professionals do not agree and you will get many conflicting opinions with 'shooters' in general...
I have posted this many times...
THE DECISION ON WHAT TO DO IS YOUR DECISION...
You will find varying opinions about barrel break in... or how often you should clean it...
...some say do it
...some say don't do it
...some even go so far as to say it is recommended by barrel makes so you will wear your barrel out faster... (That’s a myth)
...some even get pissed off talking about it
I particularly like what Lilja has to say about it.
"It is important to break-in a barrel though. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn't done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can't be broken-in. "
...there are breaking in procedures if you wish to do it.
Factory barrels are considerably different than custom match grade hand lapped barrels.
I am going to post one method.
Breaking In A Barrel - Read fully before starting the procedure
When cleaning, always use a good bore guide and a good rod.
Start with a clean, lightly lubed barrel, fire one shot, then run a loose patch through with Sweets 7.62 or any other solvent that will “eat” jacket fouling. Saturate the bore and let it sit a few minutes. Sweets indicate jacket fouling with a blue colour.
Run patches through to dry the bore and then wet patch it again and saturate the bore. After a few minutes dry patch it again. Repeat until the jacket fouling is removed (no blue patches). That means the barrel is clean.
After cleaning with Sweets, brush with Hoppes #9 and dry patch the bore and then leave it slightly lubed with a wet patch of Hoppes #9 before firing.
Then fire one more shot, and repeat the above procedure. Do this for a total of 10 shots, and then proceed to fire 2 shots and then clean as above, for 10 more shots. (For a total of 20.) The barrel is now broken in. It should be cleaned after every 20 or 30 shots there after if possible, or less often if fouling is not a problem.
You will find when the bore is broken in properly; the cleaning procedure is very quick, because there is very little jacket fouling in the bore.
I prefer Sweets 7.62, because it shows “blue” if there is any jacket fouling. I never use a copper or bronze brush with Sweets, because it will eat them, and give a false blue indication of fouling. I never let any other chemicals mix with Sweets. That is why there is a lot of dry patching and swabbing with rubbing alcohol and dry patching between switching chemicals.
For storage after cleaning with Sweets, dry patch and then swab the bore with several patches using rubbing alcohol; this will dissolve any remaining ammonia. Then lightly oil the bore.
Here are some links to various barrel maker's break in procedures:
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_...246-wp2558.htm
http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10
http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles...el_fouling.htm
http://www.pac-nor.com/care/
I have posted this information in the last 10 or 15 inquiries about "breaking a barrel in"... good luck with what ever you decide...
No one has mentioned when you do clean your barrel, the equipment and procedure is very important so you do not damage your barrel.
Professionals do not agree and you will get many conflicting opinions with 'shooters' in general...
I have posted this many times...
THE DECISION ON WHAT TO DO IS YOUR DECISION...
You will find varying opinions about barrel break in... or how often you should clean it...
...some say do it
...some say don't do it
...some even go so far as to say it is recommended by barrel makes so you will wear your barrel out faster... (That’s a myth)
...some even get pissed off talking about it
I particularly like what Lilja has to say about it.
"It is important to break-in a barrel though. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn't done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can't be broken-in. "
...there are breaking in procedures if you wish to do it.
Factory barrels are considerably different than custom match grade hand lapped barrels.
I am going to post one method.
Breaking In A Barrel - Read fully before starting the procedure
When cleaning, always use a good bore guide and a good rod.
Start with a clean, lightly lubed barrel, fire one shot, then run a loose patch through with Sweets 7.62 or any other solvent that will “eat” jacket fouling. Saturate the bore and let it sit a few minutes. Sweets indicate jacket fouling with a blue colour.
Run patches through to dry the bore and then wet patch it again and saturate the bore. After a few minutes dry patch it again. Repeat until the jacket fouling is removed (no blue patches). That means the barrel is clean.
After cleaning with Sweets, brush with Hoppes #9 and dry patch the bore and then leave it slightly lubed with a wet patch of Hoppes #9 before firing.
Then fire one more shot, and repeat the above procedure. Do this for a total of 10 shots, and then proceed to fire 2 shots and then clean as above, for 10 more shots. (For a total of 20.) The barrel is now broken in. It should be cleaned after every 20 or 30 shots there after if possible, or less often if fouling is not a problem.
You will find when the bore is broken in properly; the cleaning procedure is very quick, because there is very little jacket fouling in the bore.
I prefer Sweets 7.62, because it shows “blue” if there is any jacket fouling. I never use a copper or bronze brush with Sweets, because it will eat them, and give a false blue indication of fouling. I never let any other chemicals mix with Sweets. That is why there is a lot of dry patching and swabbing with rubbing alcohol and dry patching between switching chemicals.
For storage after cleaning with Sweets, dry patch and then swab the bore with several patches using rubbing alcohol; this will dissolve any remaining ammonia. Then lightly oil the bore.
Here are some links to various barrel maker's break in procedures:
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_...246-wp2558.htm
http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10
http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles...el_fouling.htm
http://www.pac-nor.com/care/
I have posted this information in the last 10 or 15 inquiries about "breaking a barrel in"... good luck with what ever you decide...
No one has mentioned when you do clean your barrel, the equipment and procedure is very important so you do not damage your barrel.
From my experience with match barrels (even lapped) is that the first 2 shots will leave a lot of copper in the barrel, the next 2 will not leave as much and the final round of 5 will leave very little so it is obviously smoothing something out in the barrel.
9-15 rounds of break in is NOT going to wear your barrel out plus you get to zero your rifle at the same time, killing 2 birds with one stone .
9-15 rounds of break in is NOT going to wear your barrel out plus you get to zero your rifle at the same time, killing 2 birds with one stone .
Exactly!
