Barrel Length

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Im sure this topic comes up alot, but Im at the point where I can now afford my first precision rifle. Ive been looking a a few from Remington and Savage, but my biggest question now is what barrel length to go with.

Im definetly going .223 and Ill be shooting mostly factory loaded 55 grain loads. Ive been looking at a few models wiith barrel lengths ranging from 20-26", all with heavy barrels. Without taking the make or model into consideration, which barrel length would be best to go with? The longest range Ill be shooting at, unfortunately, is probably 150-175 yards, for now. My range is only 100 yards maximum and the pit I sometimes shoot in goes to about 175 max.

Help me decide on barrel length!
 
at 175yds, barrel lenght wont really come into play, there is guys shooting 1000yds with 18" barrels consistanly, barrel lenth comes more into play with hand loading and extreme long range, as burn rates of powerder etc will have different velocitys from different barrels..

so really for the distance your shooting any barrel length will work, its what you prefer. and really by the time your shooting requires a new barrel length for different load etc you will have probably shot the barrel off and will be rebarrleing any way :D

if youve got to hike out to the shooting pit, then shorter = lighter and would probably be a bit nicer to hike with

this is the short answer version
 
There are considerations you should examine other than barrel length. The first question you need to ask is, "What is it for? Defining the range at which you shoot or the ammunition you intend to use doesn't answer that primary question. A rifle that is shot solely on the rifle range tends to look much different from one that is used in the field, whether the range is certified or an abandoned gravel pit. I wouldn't mind betting that as you master shooting at the ranges available in your gravel pit, it won't be long before you develop an itch to see what you can do, first at 300, then further.

If the rifle is to be used as a hunting rifle, the need for a heavy barrel becomes suspect, as the POI from a cold bore shot becomes far more important that the group size of a 10 shot string. If the rifle is to be used as a walking varmint rifle, it might well have a heavyish barrel. But to keep the weight manageable, there should still be some effort made towards keeping it portable through the choice of a mid weight contour, although the weight of a heavy barreled rifle can be mitigated by choosing a shorter barrel length, perhaps at the cost of balance. If the rifle is to be used strictly as a bench gun, a heavy barrel is appropriate, and the shorter the barrel the stiffer it is, and within 200 yards there is no benefit to a long pipe. But keep in mind that you might not want to be confined to 175 yards for very long.

Although you are only interested in shooting 55 gr factory ammo at the moment, selecting a barrel with a common 1:14 twist might prove unnecessarily restrictive once you have forgone factory ammo in favor of handloads; if you're serious about shooting, that will happen sooner rather than later. Once you're handloading, you are not limited to light weight bullets and if you get bitten by the long range bug, you will want to load the heavier bullets so it might be better to choose a rifle with a 1:8 twist right off the bat. A fast twist barrel does not preclude good accuracy with short bullets. One of the most accurate barrels I ever owned was a 24" Gaillard 1:7 .222 barrel, and I shot more 52 gr MKs out of that thing than anything else. If there is a disadvantage to the fast twist, its that it tends to be destructive to thin skinned varmint bullets that are designed not to ricochet with low velocity impacts. I had to stop using both the Sierra Blitz and the Hornady SX as they tended to come apart on the way to the target.
 
First of all, you should put into perspective that with the exception of perhaps the Savage FTR rifle and to a lesser extent the Remington 5R 223, there are no true "precision" rifles on the consumer market. Much like stock cars and bracket racers, you can certainly build one using factory components, but there tends to be a functional limit to performance using an off-the-shelf rifle. Some are very good and some are not, even within the same brand and model.

That is not to say you cannot achieve results that will put a big smile on your face, and some damned fine groups under the right conditions, but it is best to put expectations in line with reality.

Rifles optimized for light 55 grain bullets are more for short range and varminting. Best wind tolerance and long range ballistics go to the 80-90 grain 223 bullets, and this requires 8 or 7" twists accordingly.

Barrel length with 9 to 14 twists is simply not an issue. Get the gun you like best and have fun.

When you move into reloading, you will have an almosy infinite number of combinations and choices, and to that end it would be better to have a tight twist barrel, but I guarantee this will not be your first gun, so don't sweat it.
 
Barrel length will not matter.

Get into a store and handle these rifles. It will come very obvious what feels better to you. Length of pull, weight, balance, features, etc.

No right or wrong answer. Just get the one you like, that fits and has the ability to grow as you do.

Reloading is something I strongly recommend as soon as possible. Many factory rifles can shoot surprisingly well with handloads.

I would also lean you towards the 9 twist. The Savage will stabilize the 75gr Amax or Berger VLD. The Rem may not but the 69gr and 70gr bullets it will stabilize do work out to 600+yds.

The heavy 75gr bullets can shoot well beyond 1000yds accurately so there is alot of upside in useage.

The light 40gr bullets have no problem working with this twist in a 223. I have had alot of positive reports using Win 40gr Varmint white box ammo and savage heavy barrel rifles so that might be a solution to the factory ammo shorter distance use you are planning for immediately.

With any new rifle, proper bedding will help get the most out the rifle so consider that as part of your start up costs.

Then optics, rings bases. You don't need to spend a fortune here but spending ENOUGH is a lifetime investment and so very important to your enjoyment.

Get out there and have fun. This is unlikely your final stop so don't worry about the details too much.

Enjoy...

Jerry
 
My 0.02 cents A 20 inch barrel 1 in 9 twist, a lot of shooting at the range wont cut it with a pencil thin barrel but use it as a walking rifle and you will love it, nice rifle dont need to cost a fortune but i would says quality glass do help accuracy... Cheers. JP.
 
This rifle will strictly be for range use, shooting from a bench. After some deliberation, I think Im going to go with a Remington 700 SPS tactical. 20" heavy barrel and x mark pro trigger. 1 in 9 twist. That, or a Savage model 10 FP. 24" heavy barrel with accu trigger. 1 in 9 twist.
 
It will do just fine, and the good news is they are infinitely upgradeable if you want to turn it into a customized gun.

The Remington Action will always hold its value, and even if you were to strip it to bare bones, you'd get $500 for it.

Jump in, get shooting, have FUN!!
 
In my opinion I agree with most of the comments above but I have a problem when you talk about short barrels and long range in the same breath.
So in my opinion get the longest barrel and fastest twist for long range shooting.
Seeying that you are limited in range to 175yds nothing of what I said really matters but just keep it in mind just in case, aside from that I really like the Tikka heavy barrel rifles especially the new sporter.
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