Barrel Marking

RockChucker

RockChucker

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Whitehorse, Yukon
Anyone here use Electrochemical Etching to mark the finished barrels with cartridge designation etc.?
Wondering where to purchase said equipment in Canada?
Provided the process is effective with an easily resupply of materials used, I would be interested in buying same.

RC
 
Never done it on a barrel before, but we do it on metal sometimes at work. Works okay considering it looks like our power source was made in the early sixties. The one we use you need a typewriter to make the stencils. You just have to make sure you neutralize the acid/electrolyte after, otherwise it will rust.
This place sells them. http://www. sterling.ca/body_letroetch.html
 
I have the etchomatic and it works ok, but have since gone to farming them out to be done with a laser engraver, since the etch-o-magic cannot do armacoated barrels.
 
New to this sort of fun, and have done only minor projects n' science experiments with my 11 yr old. N'er touched a gun, but process is the same. We've been plating primarily (nickel n' copper) but have tried etching too.

For power I use a hacked PC powersupply (I use 12V for etching), and for an electrolytic solution we used a mix of water, vinegar and salt (Will have to look up what ratio). There are commercial varieties, and different home brews. I had those ingredients, and no issues playing with them in the company of an 11yr old. Our biggest limitation were the stencils we used! I have since watched a few youtube vids on the topic, and out next attempts should be cleaner looking. Ironing a laser printout directly on object will be part of the next attempt.

A quick n' dirty DIY setup is very cheap n'easy to do, but there are commercial kits just for this purpose as well.
 
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I built the etcher described on the knife forum, but never got around to trying it. I would like to hear your ratios of the home brewed solution and would really like to hear the easiest process of getting decent stencils.
 
Decent stencils are my issue, but they really shouldn't be. My ability for graphical presentation is very limited, but someone with a good hand could carve a logo from tape, or a sticker. In a youtube vid someone just used a laserprinter, and ironed the printed side to metal til the print stuck, and then carefully washed the paper off.

My solution was to mix as much salt into water as it will hold, and mix 8 parts that solution with 1 part vinegar. Lots of folks just use sal####er, but I didn't know that until after we cleaned up n' put stuff away. Will certainly try just sal####er next time.
 
I use electro chemical etching to put my makers mark on my knives.
The equipment is simple.
1)A DC transformer (I use a tyco model train speed control) a car battery or its charger will also work
2) A steel plate wraped in felt to act as an electrolite sponge
3) The mask I have mine cut out by a graphic sign shop from adhesive vinyl
4) The electrolight; 10 parts water, 2 parts sodium chloride, 1 part trisodiumphosphate (TSP)

Clean surface with automotive break cleaner, accetone or laquer thinner, allow to dry then apply mask, mask off extended areas with electrical tape. Then ground blade/barrel and wet felt on + end and wipe back and forth across mask, wipe away foamy brown/green/black sludge and re-wet felt. Wipe surface and inspect etch. When satisfactory depth is acheived (.001"-.010" going deeper resaults in loss of detail as etch undermines mask) remove mask wipe clean, rinse under water and dry
This process will eat right through hardened stainless steel, hardened tool steel even strip chrome plateing.

I use TSP because the alcaline nature of it strips chrome better than acid and a quick reverse of the polarity causes the etch to blacken better on stainless
 
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