Barrel 'Shoulder' - Various Definitions and Muzzle Brake?

aboynamedsuita

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Wasn’t sure if this should be here or in the general firearms discussion…

I recently purchased a muzzle brake, and now that I have the package I've learned a new definition of barrel “shoulder”, and apparently this may affect whether it can be used.

I’m relatively new to this, but I thought barrel shoulder was a dimension from closer to the chamber end (not muzzle end). Such as in this picture below:
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(Image from: https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/back-to-basics-rifle-barrels/ )

The muzzle brake is a Browning Recoil Hawg, and the product description says:
The Recoil Hawg will fit most bull and heavy-sporter profile rifle barrels with a minimum barrel shoulder of .700" and 5/8"-24 TPI or 1/2"-28 TPI muzzle threads.

I have a 5/8” x 24 threaded barrel which tapers down to about 0.675”, so figured it’d be good to go. I prefer the look of this muzzle brake compared to some with the external nut for tightening, looks cleaner in my opinion. Once I received the package and read the installation instructions, apparently barrel shoulder is the diameter at the muzzle?
B1ED6A7E-6294-4718-B6F1-CF833B8D5529.jpg

Is there an actual risk associated with the 0.025” (or 0.0125” radially) discrepancy? I installed it to sort of get a sense of things, and it seems to fit, as the 5/8” threaded section holds it in place, and there is no “gap” visible at the “shoulder”. Also, there is no play or wiggle room with the 5/8” threaded section holding it, and this should still be concentrically aligned with the bore, as it is governed by the 5/8” (I.e. not like it is 0.025” off-centre).
A21CAAAE-F830-42ED-8AD9-3806F2FC33E3.jpg

What do you think CGN? I’ll probably try call the manufacturer during business hours next week, but unless I can get ahold of a gunsmith or someone on the design team, I’ll probably get a generic answer about 0.700” minimum.
 

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The "shoulder" that they are referring to is simply a machined surface, squared to the bore that creates a positive stop for 2 machined surfaces to stop against each other. There may at times be a small under cut between the shoulder and the end of the thread. The thread has to stop somewhere. The .025" difference in shoulder diameter shouldn't be a problem.
 
The 'shoulder' of .675 will work but don't over tighten the 'nut'. I prefer a 9/16 x 24 thread on lighter barrels.
 
The barrel will be a bit thicker where the shoulder is depending on the barrel taper so it will be closer to .700" where the actual shoulder will be.
 
The "shoulder" that they are referring to is simply a machined surface, squared to the bore that creates a positive stop for 2 machined surfaces to stop against each other. There may at times be a small under cut between the shoulder and the end of the thread. The thread has to stop somewhere. The .025" difference in shoulder diameter shouldn't be a problem.

Ayup.

Any squared off surface like that is a "Shoulder", may even be specified at an angle, and it has not one thing specific to the chamber end of a rifle barrel, which may or may not actually have one anyways. Think Savage and Remage (Remington barrels with a Savage style nut).

Honestly, open a set of calipers to 12 1/2 thou, and see how much difference that really is.
 
That little tommy bar passed through the holes in the lock nut and turned with the fingers isn't going to apply a whole lot of torque.
With a small shoulder, and a wrench, I could see distortion occurring. But not with the system described.
 
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