Barrel will not come off rem 700 (got it! )

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matm

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I have a rem 700 with a krieger barrel installed and i would like to remove the barrel. I acquired the proper tools, a Barrel vice and surgeon action wrench and gave it a go. Even with a breaker bar on the wrench it isn't moving. Im putting a fair amount of force it should be coming off. Do you think it's loctite? I don't want to break anything. Thanks

-mat.

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You may need an external wrench. An aftermarket barrel should not be installed that tight. Possibly have galled threads. Is it slipping in the vice?
 
take the front scope base off and squirt a bit of penetrating oil in through the holes, let it sit to work it's way in and if you have to hit the action with a heat gun to aid in getting the oil to flow all the way around the threads
 
Usually a gunsmith doesn't use a thread sealer. Do you know who installed the barrel? If Loctite has been used it might help if you heat the receiver ring hot enough to fry spit.
The Surgeon wrench engages the receiver through the ejection port? Might not be intended for heavy duty use.
If the receiver wrench can handle it, sometimes a hammer blow will break a barrel loose. But this generally requires an external wrench.

If the barrel doesn't want to come off, and if it is being retired, I cut a groove around the breech of the barrel to release torque.
The same thing can be done to the recoil lug, if it can be sacrificed.

As mentioned, galling can occur, particularly with stainless. Barrel might have gone in tight.

Try the penetrating oil, might help.
 
FLHTCUI said:
So who installed the barrel?
Or do you not know?

Rob
Click to expand...
It was a guy from around picton. Has a shop by his house i can't recall his name. He did a couple rifles for me and the other one is perfect, just had this barrel issue. Not trying to throw anyone under the bus though.
 
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tiriaq said:
Usually a gunsmith doesn't use a thread sealer. Do you know who installed the barrel? If Loctite has been used it might help if you heat the receiver ring hot enough to fry spit.
The Surgeon wrench engages the receiver through the ejection port? Might not be intended for heavy duty use.
If the receiver wrench can handle it, sometimes a hammer blow will break a barrel loose. But this generally requires an external wrench.

If the barrel doesn't want to come off, and if it is being retired, I cut a groove around the breech of the barrel to release torque.
The same thing can be done to the recoil lug, if it can be sacrificed.

As mentioned, galling can occur, particularly with stainless. Barrel might have gone in tight.

Try the penetrating oil, might help.
Click to expand...

Yes the wrench engages through the port, its fairly strong but i could feel some flex when i really torqued on it. Don't think it would appreciate a hammer. The barrel has 600 rounds on it so i wouldn't mind keeping it.
 
When you take of the sight base it's likely you will be able to see if a thread locker epoxy has been used at the bottom of the screw holes. Penetrating oil will not relieve thread locker epoxy.

If it has been "tiriaqs' advice is bang on. It doesn't take much heat to release thread locker so don't get to aggressive with the torch. Not likely you can harm the action with a hand held butane torch but it's possible to cause color variations.

I personally don't like the type of barrel vice you are using nor the action wrench. They work OK as long as all is going well but run into a tight action or some of the older units built on milsurps or even older Remington/Winchester/Ruger/Savage actions and you can do a lot of damage with your set up.

I've had to add a 2 meter snipe to my action wrench handle to get some barrels off. My wrench goes all the way through the bore of the action, from the rear and works against the lugs inside.

Maybe just take your rifle to the fellow that installed the barrel and ask him to take it off or to another smith close by with heavier equipment???

They shouldn't be that difficult to take off. If the barrel was installed with threads that were too tight, that may be the reason you are having issues with it?

I've had issues with such mountings before. I like a barrel that starts to tighten up just as its shoulder touches the receiver face then just a few thou of crush to seat it in place. This usually gives me the best accuracy.


TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
 
I flashed a light into the screw hole and didnt see anything that looked like thread locker. I put the oil in and ill give it a go tomorrow sometime. I got these tools because im getting rid of the 700s and going to a switch barrel type system and didnt think id need anything too heavy duty. I was under the impression that external action wrenches could cause more damage to the action. The surgeon uses the lugs too but not from the back. Ill take it to a Smith if need be. The barrel came off another Remington action so the threads shouldn't have been a problem.
 
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matm said:
I flashed a light into the screw hole and didnt see anything that looked like thread locker. I put the oil in and ill give it a go tomorrow sometime. I got these tools because im getting rid of the 700s and going to a switch barrel type system and didnt think id need anything too heavy duty. I was under the impression that external action wrenches could cause more damage to the action. The surgeon uses the lugs too but not from the back. Ill take it to a Smith if need be. The barrel came off another Remington action so the threads shouldn't have been a problem.
Click to expand...

If your Remington actions are true, not a lot of reason to go away from them. Barrel nuts very similar to those on Savage rifles are now being used on many custom rifles made up on Remington/Winchester/Ruger and even some Mauser type receivers. They work very well and you only need the appropriate wrench to remove/replace them.

TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
 
matm said:
It was a guy from around picton. Has a shop by his house i can't recall his name. He did a couple rifles for me and the other one is perfect, just had this barrel issue. Not trying to throw anyone under the bus though.
Click to expand...

I wasnt implying to toss anyone under the bus.
But, a phone call to the one installing would have or may have offered some insight.
I may have missed the info I asked in the first post.
And now confirm you dont recall the name of the guy ...
So, I got nothing other than to support bearhunter and tiriaq and their opinions.
Rob
 
tiriaq said:
Usually a gunsmith doesn't use a thread sealer. Do you know who installed the barrel? If Loctite has been used it might help if you heat the receiver ring hot enough to fry spit.
The Surgeon wrench engages the receiver through the ejection port? Might not be intended for heavy duty use.
If the receiver wrench can handle it, sometimes a hammer blow will break a barrel loose. But this generally requires an external wrench.

If the barrel doesn't want to come off, and if it is being retired, I cut a groove around the breech of the barrel to release torque.
The same thing can be done to the recoil lug, if it can be sacrificed.

As mentioned, galling can occur, particularly with stainless. Barrel might have gone in tight.

Try the penetrating oil, might help.
Click to expand...

All THIS ^^^

Cheers, Barney
:wave:
 
I've been thinking about this situation...

Does the barrel really have to come off? If not, why not just leave it?

A gunsmith installed barrel usually isn't in all that tight.
When I thread a barrel, I aim to have the barrel screw in until it seats, hand tight, without wobble. Nice smooth fit. It will then torque up nicely. Truth be told, a bit of wobble will do no harm.
A worst case scenario might be if the barrel was tight going in, and the barrel vice and the receiver wrench were required to turn it in. Galling could result. Brute force removal could result in damaged receiver threads.
This is when it might be necessary to decide which is more important - the barrel, the recoil lug, or the receiver? Which might be sacrificed?
An extreme solution would be to cut off the barrel, and bore the stump out of the receiver.
 
tiriaq said:
I've been thinking about this situation...

Does the barrel really have to come off? If not, why not just leave it?

A gunsmith installed barrel usually isn't in all that tight.
When I thread a barrel, I aim to have the barrel screw in until it seats, hand tight, without wobble. Nice smooth fit. It will then torque up nicely. Truth be told, a bit of wobble will do no harm.
A worst case scenario might be if the barrel was tight going in, and the barrel vice and the receiver wrench were required to turn it in. Galling could result. Brute force removal could result in damaged receiver threads.
This is when it might be necessary to decide which is more important - the barrel, the recoil lug, or the receiver? Which might be sacrificed?
An extreme solution would be to cut off the barrel, and bore the stump out of the receiver.
Click to expand...

Before getting to the extreme solution I'd pack that barreled action up and ship it back to the guy who did the original work. Let him deal with it.
 
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