Basic SKS reassembly question

[louthepou]

Hi guys, I tried to find the info in other posts or stickies, with no success. Once cleaned, during reassembly, what parts should be oiled, and any part shouldn't? What's best to use for the piston and cylinder?

Lou

 

[8ball]

Usually I put a drop of oil on every cycling parts including the piston extention. For the interior of the gas cylinder and the main piston I use Hoppe's No. 9 and then I wipe them dry before reassembly.

 

[ABCZAR]

Small amounts of oil on the metal on metal moving parts.....inside reciever, sides of bolt and carrier etc.

Do not oil the bolt face...keep it clean/dry. Clean all cleaner/oil out of the chamber/bore also.

 

[heavyBullet]

I keep the inside of the bolt(firing pin), and gas cyl + piston bone dry. This way when your shooting corrosive dirty ammo, there is no oil to attract any crap, which will gum things up, especially the firing pin. You want the firing pin to rattle when you shake it, this way you will never have the pin gum up and have a chance of a slam fire.

 

[GilesG]

Since the construction of the sks allows it, I use graphite on it.

There wont be pitting corrosion because there is no stainless steel. Galvanic corrosion wont occur because there are no dissimilar metals. There is no aluminum in the sks, so we wont damage anything by using graphite.

I like to coat the piston, op rod, hammer, bolt and bolt carrier in the dry film style graphite. It doesn't attract any dirt or dust, doesn't drip or travel, lubricates, and provides rust and finish protection.

I have had great success with anhydrous graphite for moving parts. I use it on the bolt carrier, where it rides the rails of the receiver. I put some on moving parts in the trigger group too. I really cant think of any other high wear areas to put it.

My barrel stays dry, I don't oil coat it. Maybe I should, does anyone have advice on that?