BC Gunsmiths to bore out a muzzle brake?

vancouverbc

vancouverbc

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I have a factory Kimber 223 brake and want a smith to bore it out to fit a 6.5 rifle for my daughter.
(Kimber factory 84M brake, Kimber Adirondack rifle - confirmed the specs on the brake eg same build as 308 brake other than bore diameter - same threads ect)
Any smiths able to take this on? Would pay generously for your time to do it.
Cheers
 
struff55 said:
the drill press fix would be a last effort
a lathe is much more precise you only want the inside dia a few thou larger than 264" the purpose is to have the gas vent
thru the ports
Click to expand...
Well maybe for you 🤷‍♂️ but I know I could drill it out strait with a cobalt drill bit
Yes a lathe is better but it’s not hard to do in a good drill press vise and.
Plus 020 thou would be as tight as I would go ! JMO

Glad you explained how a muzzle brake functions 👍🤪
 
A drill press would be a second choice if no lathe is available.

Accuracy wise, 20 thou bullet clearance in a lathe is minimum, at least 30 thou in a drill press.

The absolute best way would be dial the barrel in a four jaw chuck and a spider within one or two ten thousands, screw the brake on and bore it.
 
bore on a brake for 308 is .392 , I don't think .005 of drill bit wobble will make any negative effect
they are not known as precision devices, certainly not tight to the barrel bore size at all
 
vancouverbc said:
I have a factory Kimber 223 brake and want a smith to bore it out to fit a 6.5 rifle for my daughter.
(Kimber factory 84M brake, Kimber Adirondack rifle - confirmed the specs on the brake eg same build as 308 brake other than bore diameter - same threads ect)
Any smiths able to take this on? Would pay generously for your time to do it.
Cheers
Click to expand...
A Z T E C H Armory has a 6.5 brake in stock if you decide not to go ahead with the rebore.
 
Anyone with a lathe could chuck it up in the 4 jaw and drill/ream, or bore it out for you. Next best would be in a mill, then as other said, it it possible to do it in a drill press. Good vise, and some v-blocks, very doable.
 
struff55 said:
the drill press fix would be a last effort
a lathe is much more precise you only want the inside dia a few thou larger than 264" the purpose is to have the gas vent
thru the ports
Click to expand...
That depends on the brake.

If the brake has a huge expansion chamber, a lot of the gasses push around and past the bullet before it leaves the muzzle of the brake.

If the bore of the brake has been properly done, there won't be an expansion chamber, and it will be much more effective.

RJ's fix wouldn't be wrong, for a brake with a large expansion chamber and with the proper drill diameter, but not so much for a brake without the expansion chamber.
 
For a brake to be most effective clearance for the bullet needs to be minimal. The bore of the brake and the bore of the barrel must be co-axial.
Prefinished brakes must have bores large enough that alignment on the barrel won't be an issue.
Best results are obtained when the bore of the brake is undersized and it is bored to finished size while mounted on the barrel. In his post above, guntech has described a preferred method which will optimize effectiveness of the brake
The bore of the brake can be opened out on a drill press, or while held in a vise and a hand held electric drill used. External appearance will be fine.
 
bearhunter said:
If the bore of the brake has been properly done, there won't be an expansion chamber, and it will be much more effective.
Click to expand...
brake designs are somewhat different also ? multi-port vs gill
one I measured has 3 'walls' , if thats what they can be called, between the gills, they all measure the same i.d., way over-bore compared to the barrel
 
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