bead blast

Aluminum oxide. Not because it will strip the finish better then glass beads but because it makes very jagged marks on the surface for the new finish to adhere to.
Glass beads will make it look like the surface of a golf ball.
 
Striker said:
Aluminum oxide. Not because it will strip the finish better then glass beads but because it makes very jagged marks on the surface for the new finish to adhere to.
Glass beads will make it look like the surface of a golf ball.
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perfect
now i know what i need.
bbb
 
bead blasting because it won't round of stamping, engraving or roll marks, won't remove material in dips if its held too long, and still gives good adhesion. De greasing is more important for the chemical adhesion the the little bit extra you get from mechanical adhesion. All gun shops I've ever dealt with used glass bead, not abrasive...
 
Glass beads produce a peining effect. Sharper abrasives can cut a bit more. The air pressure used makes a difference as well. It all depends on the effect you want, and the finish you are going to apply.
 
CnL..120 grit aluminum oxide won't cause any damage to the rifle. Blasting at 40 psi it won't remove grease from guns.
It is extremely fine.
Mind you if you held it in the same spot for a long period of time it might ,but any media would if you held it long enough..well maybe not baking soda.
120 grit aluminum oxide is what KG Coating reccomends and I do believe Armacoat does as well.
 
Striker said:
CnL..120 grit aluminum oxide won't cause any damage to the rifle. Blasting at 40 psi it won't remove grease from guns.
It is extremely fine.
Mind you if you held it in the same spot for a long period of time it might ,but any media would if you held it long enough..well maybe not baking soda.
120 grit aluminum oxide is what KG Coating reccomends and I do believe Armacoat does as well.
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noted. I didn't suggest that either media would degrease, that needs to be done before, then the whole thing washed again after to remove grit from crannies. I've always removed finish with fine beads, but your right, at low pressure, the fine grit would be ok as well. I just won't recomend something I've never tried.....you have so it seems both work ok, one may have an advantage in regaurds to certian finish applications.
 
Cocked&Locked said:
noted. I didn't suggest that either media would degrease, that needs to be done before, then the whole thing washed again after to remove grit from crannies. I've always removed finish with fine beads, but your right, at low pressure, the fine grit would be ok as well. I just won't recomend something I've never tried.....you have so it seems both work ok, one may have an advantage in regaurds to certian finish applications.
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It takes more time to prepare the gun then it does to actually spray the finish on eh!
I degrease them too before blasting. I actually bake the part at 325 for an hour before I blast it to sweat any oil or grease out. After learning the hard way..:redface:
How does the finish last using beads?
 
Striker said:
It takes more time to prepare the gun then it does to actually spray the finish on eh!
I degrease them too before blasting. I actually bake the part at 325 for an hour before I blast it to sweat any oil or grease out. After learning the hard way..:redface:
How does the finish last using beads?
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So far so good. I need some new finish, the can I was using dried up. I have to do the muzzle attachment for a SVT 40
 
intresting thats for the info
ill be blasting and arma koat
ive used gunkote befor but its just to much work on long guns.
i used to get the gun parts blasted at a shop
but i never bothered to ask how they did it.
wantto do a few big parts so wantto do it myself
bakeing in the oven is not going to happen
so thats why i want to try out arma kote
bbb
 
Aluminum oxide is what we use, and must be used as it gets the metal into the "white" so it can be parkerized it also gets rid of slight metal imperfections as well. Bead plasting typically has a polishing effect and will not work to parkerize as the iron has to be bare exposed metal. We usually blast around 120-130 psi on all metals which has never damaged or warn out any parts of a gun, but I am sure if you blasted in the same spot for a while at high pressure you might wear down any sharp surfaces such as threads and checkering.
 
We change out the aluminum oxide once a year, we use 80 grit most of the time.at 120 psi you can strip bluing and old parkerizing quite quickly which is nice to keep the work going quicker.
 
:rolleyes:
Murdoc said:
We change out the aluminum oxide once a year, we use 80 grit most of the time.at 120 psi you can strip bluing and old parkerizing quite quickly which is nice to keep the work going quicker.
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Damn..I use 120 grit at 40 psi and I've changed it once already after doing approx 12 rifles.
It was getting really dusty in my cabinet so I figured it was "worn out".
 
Striker said:
:rolleyes:
Damn..I use 120 grit at 40 psi and I've changed it once already after doing approx 12 rifles.
It was getting really dusty in my cabinet so I figured it was "worn out".
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no, but if you have a filter/ dust removal system it might be clogged up and need cleaning. If not, ignore the dust (as long as it stays in the cabinet) and change it when it quits working....
 
Cocked&Locked said:
no, but if you have a filter/ dust removal system it might be clogged up and need cleaning. If not, ignore the dust (as long as it stays in the cabinet) and change it when it quits working....
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We didn't have a dust recovery system in place until about 2 weeks ago. Hooked a shop vac up which worked great except the paper filter slipped off the foam one..the bearings didn't last to long after that..
I wear a good quality mask when I'm blasting as well.
 
Striker said:
We didn't have a dust recovery system in place until about 2 weeks ago. Hooked a shop vac up which worked great except the paper filter slipped off the foam one..the bearings didn't last to long after that..
I wear a good quality mask when I'm blasting as well.
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rodger that! your lungs will thank you, and you'll live long enought to be thanked by them!
 
Cocked&Locked said:
rodger that! your lungs will thank you, and you'll live long enought to be thanked by them!
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Safety equip is a high priority..I wear a good quality respirator when I paint and have the window open with an exhaust fan running in it as well.
My grandmother died of lung cancer..
 
If you don't want dust coming out of your ShopVac, use the yellow bags... They are for drywall particules and work great! More expensive but well worth it!
 
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