HELP! I have an antique Smith & Wesson that's in pretty sad shape cosmetically. I had planned for it to be my spring project, which it will still be, in that it needs the few remaining nickel patches removed and the whole pistol taken back down to bare steel. I can do it with progressively finer abrasives, but I would love it if some kind soul could put me on to a company or person who could do the preliminary work for me. I'm in the Toronto area. I contacted a couple of places online, one bead blaster and one plating place, both of whom said they take on small jobs. Neither of the ignorant SOB's had the courtesy to even say "no thanks". Any suggestions?
Bead blasting or reverse nickel plating
- Thread starter LawrenceN
- Start date
I may have skipped a few steps. Let me clarify. The places I contacted advised that quotes and inquiries were to be submitted online only. Therefore, my request for: A. Would they do the job? and B. How much would it cost? were ignored, got it?
So you called them, they said submit a request online, you did that, and they have since ignored you?
Or are you saying they told you their policy was quotes and inquiries need to be done online and you gave up at that point?
I would not be bothered with them any further, unfortunately that is the attitude of so many businesses today. Bead blasting can be a destructive process unless done carefully with the proper media. I wouldn't trust it to anyone not specifically experienced with doing guns.
I would clean it up myself starting with about 180 grit working finer. Always back the paper with a block or dowel so edges aren't rounded off or fish eyes created over screw holes. Polishing may sound like a simple job but it can be messed up. I have no idea on platers, bluing it could also be an option.
I would clean it up myself starting with about 180 grit working finer. Always back the paper with a block or dowel so edges aren't rounded off or fish eyes created over screw holes. Polishing may sound like a simple job but it can be messed up. I have no idea on platers, bluing it could also be an option.
Thank you. I've polished firearms before to prep them for blue but it's the first time I've been faced with this much nickel. Personally, 1 think 180 is too coarse even as a starter. As you're no doubt aware, the coarser the grit the faster you remove the material but the more scratches you'll have to address later. I have some cork back wood pieces that I use for sanding and for getting into those nooks and crannies I have a fibreglass pen that seems to do a good job. A gentleman in Ottawa will do a proper hot blue job for a very reasonable price if I do all the fiddly prep work and polishing.
Have you researched chemical stripping?
Seems doable, but I haven’t done it yet.
For me I’d find a few nickel plated sacrificial bobbles that are a steel base to experiment on; once successful give it a dip and rinse.
Polishing/sanding seems potentially very destructive, I’ve seem a lot of botched polish jobs on car/bike parts…looks easy, but that’s the hard part.
Seems doable, but I haven’t done it yet.
For me I’d find a few nickel plated sacrificial bobbles that are a steel base to experiment on; once successful give it a dip and rinse.
Polishing/sanding seems potentially very destructive, I’ve seem a lot of botched polish jobs on car/bike parts…looks easy, but that’s the hard part.
The grit you start with depends on how bad the particular piece is. I have started many jobs with a file and others with 320 grit. Accurate filing and polishing are jobs that can easily be messed up...lots are even at the factory with the overuse of large buffing wheels that round off edges and saucer holes. One that comes to mind is the Henry 1860 lever. It's shiny but the edges of the barrel flats are all worn off. They ask big money for them but they're full of MIM parts and polished by amateurs.
