Bedded stock for my Mosin Nagant Sniper

ben777lemay

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I decided to make another stock for my Mosin repro sniper...
So I bought another stock for my project.

Here's the rifle in *original* condition :

- 1943 Izhevsk
- All match # except the scope and scope mount
- Scope mount have a stamped #, not electro-penciled
- Bore is shinny with strong riflings, crown look very nice
- Refurbished marks
- Scope is an old design repro with moving reticle
- There is two specials markings on the barrel shank :
1- Point of aim proof ( K in a circle )
2- Concentric "00" Accuracy proof

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I stripped the old shelac then I removed most of the dings in the wood with steam...

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I did alot of wood-work on this stock...
The worse part was to free-float the barrel :p

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Then I did a bedding job, that was my first one ever so be lenient !!! I learned alot from this !!!

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Now the rifle need a good cleaning and oiling and then I will put it together tomorrow...
I don't know what to expect at the range, honestly 2 inch groups at 100y will make me really happy...
At the same time I don't want to expect too much, after all its a repro !!!

I think I will hit the range this weekend to see what she can do !!!
I will post the results... good or bad...
 
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Looks really nice! What did you do to bed the stock?

Thx but hmmm, like I said that was my first bedding job + my english is bad...
There is several articles and videos on the net that show how to bed a rifle...
Its not I don't want to answer but I feel like I'm the wrong person to ask... :p

Personally, I looked alot of videos and I really think bedding a mosin nagant is not an easy task... Why ? This is because of the ejector and interrupter/ejector spring...

Here's a good vid of a guy bedding his mosin in a Boyds stock... Watch the following videos too, part 11 and 12...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjGO0UWYx2I
 
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Just finished but the light outside is gone... its mostly cloudy... Better pics will have to wait... My old camera need alot of light.

For now I have those photos :
Enjoy !!!

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The receiver is pretty smooth for a 43'

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Little better pictures...I forget to remove the trigger lock..DOHHHH
Can't w8 to hit the range tomorrow morning !!! :rolleyes:

I also installed a Huber Concepts Trigger...
I would say that improved the trigger by a realistic 40-50%
Less creep and crisp release !!! Not like glass but *close*

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So I went to the shooting range today with my 91/30...
I began at 50y to sight the scope.
Fired few rounds with different brands and the point of impact is very different form a brand to another. Last ammunition I shooted at 50y was czech silver tip, it was really close to the bull... Last shot I fired the case was stuck in the chamber and I was unable to open the bolt :eek:

I decided it was over for today. Back to home, I was able to remove the bolt and the case still stuck in the chamber. I removed it with a cleaning rod without too much efforts. I can see on the case there is some deformation above the rim I think its just a defect ;) I fired many box of this Czech-ST and its good stuff.

But the testings at 100y will have to wait another day, at least she's sighted !!!

The windage is almost right on, no shims and no material removed, I'm a lucky guy I know !!!

I have an issue with the elevation. I had to rise alot the back of the scope mount with the two adjustment set-screws. The scope base and mount are almost touching together and I'm at 500-600m setting at 50y wich is really bad.

The question is : can I reset the elevation and windage turret at 0 ???
 
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Try it with the stock that came with the rifle first. It may be that the scope mount base was not installed on the bore center line. If thats the case, you will never get the system to work like it should.
 
Try it with the stock that came with the rifle first. It may be that the scope mount base was not installed on the bore center line. If thats the case, you will never get the system to work like it should.

I don't like the word... never !!!
I like challenge !!!

Here what I thought : Mill the top of the mount where it touch the base...
I will just remove the material I need, no more, like less than a 1/16...

What do you think of my idea ???
 
Loosen the two small screws on the turret, but do not remove them entirely. Do it just enough so that you can rotate the scale to zero--then tighten the screws agian. Your scale will be on zero. Unfortunately, this will not help mechanically center your reticle (if the scope is true to the original, the reticle does not self center as on modern scopes, and you can have a reticle way off to one side or another, or too high or low or a combination of all).

Otherwise some mechanical shimming/rebedding is inorder. Your idea of milling the mount seems like the simplest solution.
 
Loosen the two small screws on the turret, but do not remove them entirely. Do it just enough so that you can rotate the scale to zero--then tighten the screws agian. Your scale will be on zero. Unfortunately, this will not help mechanically center your reticle (if the scope is true to the original, the reticle does not self center as on modern scopes, and you can have a reticle way off to one side or another, or too high or low or a combination of all).

Otherwise some mechanical shimming/rebedding is inorder. Your idea of milling the mount seems like the simplest solution.

That mean I can reset the windage too...

Yeah my scope is the old model with moving reticle.
When it at 0, the reticle is way above center height.

My current windage setting is : -1
My current elevation is : 600 :(

At 600 the reticle is like 1mm above center height.
I don't plan to shot above 500 yards so if I reset it to zero where it is and it will be almost perfectly centered at 100y. I'm sure I have enough stroke to reset the scope and shoot the rifle to 500y... No machining...
 
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