Bedding question

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cdn1canhunt

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Is there any point to bedding a factory Tupperware stock?
I have a savage model 11 pretty well stock just added a basix trigger. the rifle shoots very well moa but wondering if a bedding job would give even better accuracy? Debating if I should buy a better quality aftermarket stock then bed?

Any thoughts?
 
The cheapest plastic stocks that come with the cheap factory models are not worth doing anything to except replace them with an expensive aftermarket stock if you want to spend money...
 
guntech said:
The cheapest plastic stocks that come with the cheap factory models are not worth doing anything to except replace them with an expensive aftermarket stock if you want to spend money...
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Agreed, you'll spend more time messing with it than it's worth. Also, some epoxy formulas may react with the plastic and deform it more.
 
I have bedded 4 different savage stocks and strengthened the forends on them. Every one went from 1-1.5 inch groups to .75 or less with hand loads. Way cheaper to play with and try then buying a new stock! Just my .02 worth..
 
I bedded the cheapie Hogue overmould stock that came with my Rem 700. It improved accuracy big time as it removed most of the flex in the handguard area.

I used it like that for a season before eventually upgrading the stock.
 
its worth a try if your doing it yourself. all it costs is time and its a learning experience. done right it may help done wrong you buy a better stock.
 
If your time is free and you like playing around, then yes it is worth it. It is better to mess up a cheap stock the first try than an expensive one. Just because it costs more doesn't always mean it will shoot better.
 
The big problem with the factory molded stock is that nothing sticks to them. The best that can be accomplished is to establish a mechanical lock to keep the bedding in place. Nonetheless, in many cases, bedding can improve the fit of the action in the stock and the accuracy of the rifle.
 
I have seen a few bedding tutorials on the web. I think I'd like to give it a shot if it improves the accuracy. I think I will wait and gather some supplies for March (in between seasons time) to give it a try. Any tips are appreciated.
Thanks
 
icehunter121 said:
I have bedded 4 different savage stocks and strengthened the forends on them. Every one went from 1-1.5 inch groups to .75 or less with hand loads. Way cheaper to play with and try then buying a new stock! Just my .02 worth..
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What did you do to strengthen the forend. I was thinking dremel out some webbing and epoxy 2 arrow shafts in the forend?
 
I have a savage 116 in 300 wm that wasn't shooting well at all. I replaced the plastic stock with a Boyd's tumbhole then pillar bedded it and bedded the action. Now it groups under an inch. I used the bed rock kit that cabelas sells, play dough to fill in where I didn't want the epoxy to go and Pam for a release agent. I work great. Don't get the butter flavour Pam unless you want your gun to smell like butter
 
Buck1289 said:
I have a savage 116 in 300 wm that wasn't shooting well at all. I replaced the plastic stock with a Boyd's tumbhole then pillar bedded it and bedded the action. Now it groups under an inch. I used the bed rock kit that cabelas sells, play dough to fill in where I didn't want the epoxy to go and Pam for a release agent. I work great. Don't get the butter flavour Pam unless you want your gun to smell like butter
Click to expand...

I did the same to my Axis in .270. Went the redneck route and used JB Weld, but I can get 5 shots touching @ 100m with handloads
 
2nd the redneck route..... JB has worked very well on several plastic stocks I have done. Consider the plastic stock as a consumable. Be sure to use good release agent (shoe wax) on all surfaces. Plug any holes, barrel nut keys, and the space between the nut and the barrel, the space on the recoil lug key where it locks into the receiver using plumbers putty. This is done in order to prevent lock up. Use putty as a dam to keep JB from running into the forend. Rough up the plastic surface using 80 gr for good adherence. Suggest only working on the recoil lug area. No need to bed the entire receiver surface, only the recoil lug and barrel nut 1" forward of the lug. Improvement in fit will be evident and reduce flyers.

Works like a charm at a modest price compared to other methods. Save the good stuff (devcon) for your wood projects.

Elky....
 
TrevorMack said:
What did you do to strengthen the forend. I was thinking dremel out some webbing and epoxy 2 arrow shafts in the forend?
Click to expand...

I dremeled out some of the webbing so that a 1/4 inch steel square keystock would fit just lower (then the top of) the webbing. Use a liquid bedding epoxy to secure it in place. Also drill small holes thru the webbing so that the bedding can flow into each opening and create one solid piece of bedding. Bed the front of the receiver,recoil lug,and first inch of barrel. Leave the rest of the barrel channel free floating. This seemed to work the best for a starting point.
 
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