Bedding Sporter No4 much different then Full stock No4?

millwright

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Due to the great knowledge base on the Lee Enfield rifle that pops in and out of here, I wish to pose this question. How does the bedding differ on a sporterized No4 compared to a full stocked No4?. I assume the draws and receiver area would be the same but what about the barrel area? I have two Parker Hale sporterized No4 Mk1* that you can slide the stocks back and forth when the trigger guard is off. Now being sporterized they will not be used in a sustained target mode but looking for the first couple of shot repeatability for hunting (not the shot gun effect). Mods please keep this in this forum as the hunting rifle section does not attract the same calibre of enfield guru. G:
 
Action solid, friend, stock right back against the Butt Socket.

Bed solid to the front of the Chamber, then float it the rest of the way.

MOST rifles (but not all) will appreciate a solid bearing-point, about 3/4 to an inch wide, at the fore-end tip, with about 4 pounds of pressure. Some will want a bit less pressure, some a bit more. Once you have the bearing, you can shim it with strips of Brass or Aluminum shim-stock until you determine exactly what YOUR rifle wants.

Hope this helps.
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I am curious about the barrel because the sporter forearm ends about 10 inches from the muzzle. So I would assume (bad word I know) that it would effect the harmonics differently then if the bearing point is approx 2 inches from the muzzle. Am I reading too much into this? I had a close look at the factory sporter wood and the draws aren't even close to being tight. Threw a old sporterized military stock on and it was nice and tight as it should be. The quest goes on.
 
You are quite right about barrel harmonics and vibration patterns. The Number 4 was designed for a full-floating barrel, action bedded solid, bearing-point about 2 inches long from 2-1/2 to 41/2 inches from the muzzle with 4 to 6 pounds of upward pressure.

The old SMLE was bedded very similarly but with the forward bearing-point 2 inches long and right at the muzzle. There was downward pressure on the barrel at about mid-point from the Inner Band; this served to damp vibration there. The Canadian Bisley shooters who were using SMLEs in the 1000, 1100 and 1200-yard matches used to cut the Muzzle Reinforce back to ONE inch, although not all did this. Their record in the score-books is pretty impressive, so I generally do it when I am playing with an SMLE, especially when it doesn't shoot as well as it should. Otherwise, the barrel of the SMLE was floated, also.

You are quite right: a LOT of commercial stocks are inletted for a "drop-in fit" regardless of what the RIFLE may want. You can tighten things up very nicely by bedding the rifle into Aca-Glas Gel or something similar, but it MUST be non-shrinking. I don't use the "parting compound" goop they give you: flammable, stinks, goes on too thick. I coat my parts instead with a VERY thin coat of lithium-based Grease. The resin does not adhere to it and I get a closer fit, which is important if you want the thing to shoot.

As to exact measurements, what I told you works. I am not qualified to remark otherwise. Depending on the rifle, you may have to adjust the sights for the MPI. If you are mounting a scpe, you will do that anyway, of course.

Most important points:
go slow and careful
don't get the fibreglass resin on the Cat, even if he DOES want to play with it
let her stand 24 hours before taking apart to remove excess FG
have fun.

Hope this helps.

When do we get to see pics? And a range report?

Good luck.
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A sporter with a cut down stock like my target rifle with [45 LB] a NO8 forestock and handguard will want to be fully floated give yourself about .030 clearance between the barrel and timber right to the breech paper thickness,a thought i have a heavy barrel more solid [7/8 in dia] so you may want to play around with the clearence.Once you get it dailed in with the right front blade she is a tack driver lot of fun.:)
You want the reciever to have a nice snug fit in the pocket it sits in and at the back also.



I am curious about the barrel because the sporter forearm ends about 10 inches from the muzzle. So I would assume (bad word I know) that it would effect the harmonics differently then if the bearing point is approx 2 inches from the muzzle. Am I reading too much into this? I had a close look at the factory sporter wood and the draws aren't even close to being tight. Threw a old sporterized military stock on and it was nice and tight as it should be. The quest goes on.
 
Thanks smellie. Very informative. Pics? Busy coating it with Mov it and whipeing it down to remove the rust that is there. Spray let sit and then, white paper towel it off and then comes the nice red oxide color. Been a week or so cleaning the barrel, still getting a hint of blue with the ammonia and patch. I'm just gonna finish with a oil soaked patch and leave it until I find some wipe out. One place I haven't tried the brake cleaner yet is the bore. Hmm. Time line? Not sure, lots of other projects still on the go
 
Thanks maxinumarmor. Hey how come the barrel on your avatar on this side of the foresight is so stubby? I just remembered I have a N08 forestock maybe I should hog it out and use it for the sporter.What do ya think? Just kidding. It will probably stay as is
 
I've had a number of sporters over the years, of varying configuration and quality. Every one of them shot better with pressure at the fore-end tip, say 2-4 pounds. I attribute this to the relatively poor rigidity offered by a rifle designed with a separate forearm, and the rather limited points of attachment at the trigger guard.
Take an free floating sporter foreend and put some force on it in varying directions - you'll see how flexy it can be.
 
That is a pic of a muzzel on a L42 sniper rifle they were made that way [no bayonet lugs] Your right about the no8 stock a lot of work and fitting but best suited for a heavy barreled rifle it worked out pretty nice when i was done.




Thanks maxinumarmor. Hey how come the barrel on your avatar on this side of the foresight is so stubby? I just remembered I have a N08 forestock maybe I should hog it out and use it for the sporter.What do ya think? Just kidding. It will probably stay as is
 
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