Bedding the rail?
- Thread starter WhoKilledBambi
- Start date
- Location
- Timmins, Ontario
I would check it first. To check it,
Install only the front screws (torque to spec) and observe the rear of the rail.
Check for a gap between the rail and action.
Remove front screws and install rear screws same as front
Check for a gap between the rail and action.
If there is no gap in either front/rear. Your rail/action mating is good.
If there is a gap in front or rear, bed which ever end has the gap.
I have 2 EGW bases. One I had to bed the rear only and the 2nd one was good.
P.S. I'm no pro, this is just my humble opinion
Install only the front screws (torque to spec) and observe the rear of the rail.
Check for a gap between the rail and action.
Remove front screws and install rear screws same as front
Check for a gap between the rail and action.
If there is no gap in either front/rear. Your rail/action mating is good.
If there is a gap in front or rear, bed which ever end has the gap.
I have 2 EGW bases. One I had to bed the rear only and the 2nd one was good.
P.S. I'm no pro, this is just my humble opinion
Last edited:
Without question bed it to the action. The rail is probably more accurately made than that action. Put release on all the parts and torque it very lightly until cured. When cured for several days clean it up and torque to what the rail maker suggests. Pay attention to mixing by weight and using a steel or glass filled epoxy.
- Location
- Timmins, Ontario
Thanks guys, I overlooked the release agent step.
Bambi: I personally use Devon Plastic Steel. I can't speak for JB Weld
Bambi: I personally use Devon Plastic Steel. I can't speak for JB Weld
Paste wax the screws and the action and the side surfaces of the rail. Then put the epoxy on the bottom of the rail and I only tighten the screws enough so the rail is aligned with the action... the paste wax on the sides of the rail help in cleaning up the overflow when it cures. I try and catch it when it has partially cured and remove it and cut the excess off with a sharp knife. Then place it back on the action with the screws ever so lightly tightened until cured. I drill the epoxy out of the screw holes to have slight clearance on the threads.
Don't get all tied up on which bedding compound to use. Just use a good one. The one you mentioned, is fine.
Guntech mentioned using paste wax as a release agent. He's right of course it works just fine.
Recently though a buddy put me onto a release agent that IMHO is even better. Lead soldering paste.
It smears on easily, gets into the smallest crannies and after the bedding has hardened, comes out much easier. It's also much easier to clean up.
When I first heard his tale, I will admit I was tongue in cheek. I was soon convinced.
Lead solder paste goes on micro thin and doesn't dry out either.
I wish I had known about it 40 years ago.
Guntech mentioned using paste wax as a release agent. He's right of course it works just fine.
Recently though a buddy put me onto a release agent that IMHO is even better. Lead soldering paste.
It smears on easily, gets into the smallest crannies and after the bedding has hardened, comes out much easier. It's also much easier to clean up.
When I first heard his tale, I will admit I was tongue in cheek. I was soon convinced.
Lead solder paste goes on micro thin and doesn't dry out either.
I wish I had known about it 40 years ago.
JB weld works fine for bedding rails, I have used kiwi neutral shoe polish a few times as a release agent, works really well. Also rough up the bottom of the rail with corse sand paper to get a good bond with the epoxy.
