I'm gathering up the supplies to bed my 700 this weekend, and after much reading have decided to use JB weld. I get a huge discount on it through my work, but I only have access to the small packages. They have two one oz tubes in them. How many of these do you think I would need? two? three? As always your help is appreciated.
Bedding with JB weld, how much do I need?
- Thread starter 223submoa
- Start date
Sask_Hunter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan
One pack should work but you might need some of the second one depending on how much of action you are bedding. If your just doing the lug area one will be lots.
I had looked at Devcon, but it was considerably more expensive, especially considering that I get JB weld for cost through my work. I also can't buy it locally. I don't want to sink a lot of money into this stock, as it will be replaced within the next year. I'm hoping to find Kiwi neutral to use as a release agent, but living in PEI I may not be able to find it. (shopping here is abysmal.) If I can't find it I'll probably use carnauba wax.
Ok..I kinda figured that might have been the issue. I just picked up my first two 1lb cans of Devcon 10110 last week. I've got a few rifles to bed, hopefully soon.
If you get a chance, check out one of the end aisles in Sobeys for your KIWI neutral shoe polish....YESSS....Sobeys. That's the only place out of 7 or 8 that I checked out last week in Hfx that had it. They had 5 cans too...they're the smaller ones but everyone says that a little goes a long ways. Good luck with it.
I use a can of "SHORT STRAND" fibre glass that I bought at Canadian tire. You can do at least a dozen rifles or more with this.
Mix well with a few 3-5 drops of hardener. Its gives the fiber glass a light brown color.
I coat all surfaces anywhere near the application site with a nice,even "light" coat of cartridge case lube, or any basic grease. I have done this a hundred times, and it works great! No magic,special stuff needed.
The more hardener you mix into the fiberglass, the darker the fiberglass mixture.
NOTE: The darker the fiber glass (hense more hardener) the faster the set up time.
I preferr to use just enough to do the job. A little wait of 10-15 Minutes is minor.
If you dont put much hardener into the mix, just blend/mix the fiberglass well, and it will just take a little longer to set. No big deal.
If you leave the unused portion of fiberglass beside your project, you can check the hardness of it as time passes. It will be the perfect indicator of the condition of the glass that you have installed in your action bearing surface. Handy and easy!
If there is alot of fiber glass to form, you dont have to do the whole job in one application. You can do it in multiple applications.
Hope this helps someone!
Mix well with a few 3-5 drops of hardener. Its gives the fiber glass a light brown color.
I coat all surfaces anywhere near the application site with a nice,even "light" coat of cartridge case lube, or any basic grease. I have done this a hundred times, and it works great! No magic,special stuff needed.
The more hardener you mix into the fiberglass, the darker the fiberglass mixture.
NOTE: The darker the fiber glass (hense more hardener) the faster the set up time.
I preferr to use just enough to do the job. A little wait of 10-15 Minutes is minor.
If you dont put much hardener into the mix, just blend/mix the fiberglass well, and it will just take a little longer to set. No big deal.
If you leave the unused portion of fiberglass beside your project, you can check the hardness of it as time passes. It will be the perfect indicator of the condition of the glass that you have installed in your action bearing surface. Handy and easy!
If there is alot of fiber glass to form, you dont have to do the whole job in one application. You can do it in multiple applications.
Hope this helps someone!
Last edited:
Shortstrand auto body filler ??...."kittyhair" ?? ...fiberglass and grease....really ??...I would think that it wouldn't be very smooth once the barrelled action was removed. ....Huh...who knew ??
I have used it to repair fiberglass water and fuel tanks, bait tanks, deck anchor bolts, thru hull scuppers and the wheelhouse on my lobster boat....buttt....never ever heard of it used for rifle bedding.
Do you have any pics of the hundred or so rifles you did. I'd like to see a couple of it up close. JIC you're on to something.
I have used it to repair fiberglass water and fuel tanks, bait tanks, deck anchor bolts, thru hull scuppers and the wheelhouse on my lobster boat....buttt....never ever heard of it used for rifle bedding.
Do you have any pics of the hundred or so rifles you did. I'd like to see a couple of it up close. JIC you're on to something.
I used to do it for my friends as well as my own rifles.
To get the best smooth finish I usually bed in at least two applications.
The fiber glass is resistant to water (ie:boat hulls). It works great!
I like to color the fiberglass black after it has cured. This way you normally cant see it very easily when the action is in place, even on the sides.
After about 45min-an hour I just trim off the extra with a knife, and scrape off the extra that you dont want.
The only thing I dont like is when the fiberglass is formed very thin in spots. If you dont have the bedding surface roughed up and properly prepped, it will come off easily.
I prep all the sufaces by sanding with coarse sandpaper first, then scrape the bedding surface with a small srewdriver to create a very roughened surface. The fiberglass adheres to that no problem!
To get the best smooth finish I usually bed in at least two applications.
The fiber glass is resistant to water (ie:boat hulls). It works great!
I like to color the fiberglass black after it has cured. This way you normally cant see it very easily when the action is in place, even on the sides.
After about 45min-an hour I just trim off the extra with a knife, and scrape off the extra that you dont want.
The only thing I dont like is when the fiberglass is formed very thin in spots. If you dont have the bedding surface roughed up and properly prepped, it will come off easily.
I prep all the sufaces by sanding with coarse sandpaper first, then scrape the bedding surface with a small srewdriver to create a very roughened surface. The fiberglass adheres to that no problem!
I just bedded a Mauser with JB weld using Vasoline as a release agent (my first ever bedding job) and started in small spots at a time out of fear that it would not break free. Good thing too because it did separate with some effort on the first 2 spots but I split the stock getting it apart on the third. After repairing the stock I got some of the industrial grade mold release that we use at work (Yes I should have just started with that) and baby that was nice. With the good stuff in hand I used a die grinder to remove some of the patch work bedding and I was glad to see it go. I then mixed the white powder stuff I got from work mixed with rubbing alcohol and painted it all over the action and barrel and then applied some heat from a blow dryer to set it up. At that point it turns into a thin clear waxy layer that nothing wants to stick to. I then bedded the entire action with JB weld knowing that there is no way it would stick. The next day I gave it a few rapps with a plastic mallet and it popped right out. One coat and the job was perfect.
I think JB weld does a really good job and is tough and just soft enough not to crack. Just be sure you use something to ensure it does not stick, because it really wants to.
I suspect the fiberglass would work ok but would probably be a little on the brittle side as compared to JB.
I think JB weld does a really good job and is tough and just soft enough not to crack. Just be sure you use something to ensure it does not stick, because it really wants to.
I suspect the fiberglass would work ok but would probably be a little on the brittle side as compared to JB.
Last edited:
Yes with the brittle aspect of fiberglass. I think this comes to play especially if you add too much hardener. This is another reason I just add enough to do the job.
Badasmo:
sucks to hear about the stock! Hopefully it will work for you still!
I had one stock stick. I set everything in place and I didnt use enough release agent(grease). Lol!
Actually, I applied it for the first of two steps, but forgot to apply it the second time. There was JUST enough left on the metal! Thank heavens it still released!
The fiberglass has worked wonderful for years, and havent experienced anything bad yet.
That Jb weld will last forever for sure!
Jordan Smith
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, AB
Far less than one package is enough to do the lug and tang area of a rifle. IIRC, one package will do 2 or 3 rifles.
I've got a Husky 30-06 now that I'm doin up now for a friend. He got a replacement stock for it, butt.... It's the wrong model stock. Sooooo...I have a bit of extra work to do to get it to fit....I have to cut a small piece to set back in and blend it for the bolt stop notch, along with some wood working and bedding around the bottom metal adjustments to make.
