Bedding

Another question: after bedding, screw holes are filled with epoxy, and threaded. I removed the epoxy from the rear action screw hole so that recoil is not transferred to the screw. But, whqt about the front screw. Should I remove the epoxy also? The hole is right behind the recoil lug.

Thanks in advance. There is a well of knowledge here that learn from.
 
It is my belief that screws should have clearance in the screw holes. No side contact at all. I believe contact can be detrimental to accuracy. A lot of accuracy shooters I have known believe that.
 
Gun123 said:
Another question: after bedding, screw holes are filled with epoxy, and threaded. I removed the epoxy from the rear action screw hole so that recoil is not transferred to the screw. But, whqt about the front screw. Should I remove the epoxy also? The hole is right behind the recoil lug.

Thanks in advance. There is a well of knowledge here that learn from.
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It sounds that you have done this job differently than I have been doing, so you would need advice what to do next from someone who has done as you have. FYI - I have several sets of headless stock maker screws that I turn into the receiver snuggly - then wrap aluminum foil tape around the screw shank so it just barely slides in and out of the wood stock hole - that way the thickness of the tape is going to keep the axis of the screw in dead centre of the hole - that tape usually prevents any epoxy from going into that hole either - needs release agent all over, though. I suspect that you need to know that your action screws are in the centre of their holes through the stock - not touching when tightened up. If you have threads in the epoxy - must have been formed or cut by the action screws - so would be too small hole, I would think?? But I do not really know that.

If it helps - I often have made short "tubes" to go around the rear screw for Mauser - to hold the receiver and rear end of trigger guard apart - so is usually a 1/4" diameter action screw - I use a 5/16" drill to ream out the little "pipes" and then use that aluminum tape on the bedding screws so that I believe the 1/4" diameter action screws end up dead centre within a 5/16" diameter hole.
 
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Gun123 said:
There is a recoil lug like a K98, and it's bedded at factory.
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That should be fine but does the bedding inhibit side to side movement???? at the front and rear? Or forward movement??

I haven't seen a new Winchester but I've seen similar types of bedding and usually the lug at the rear is to inhibit forward movement. of the receiver in the stock.

Remington, back in the day, were OK with just bedding behind the recoil lug and for the most part, it worked just fine.

After a few years or several hundred rounds this type of bedding often needs to be removed/replenished or skim coated and maybe taken further back or the area around the front of the lug needs to be bedded to stop this forward movement.

Again, it's a personal thing and often, with bedding it really depends on how a rifle is going to be used.

A rifle bouncing around in a Quad rack takes a beating from all sorts of angles. Same goes for a rifle in a scabbard.

When a rifle is used under harsh conditions, unexected things can and do go wrong.

Bedding can prevent a lot of these issues, but it's not a guarantee.
 
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Potashminer said:
It sounds that you have done this job differently than I have been doing, so you would need advice what to do next from someone who has done as you have. FYI - I have several sets of headless stock maker screws that I turn into the receiver snuggly - then wrap aluminum foil tape around the screw shank so it just barely slides in and out of the wood stock hole - that way the thickness of the tape is going to keep the axis of the screw in dead centre of the hole - that tape usually prevents any epoxy from going into that hole either - needs release agent all over, though. I suspect that you need to know that your action screws are in the centre of their holes through the stock - not touching when tightened up. If you have threads in the epoxy - must have been formed or cut by the action screws - so would be too small hole, I would think?? But I do not really know that.

If it helps - I often have made short "tubes" to go around the rear screw for Mauser - to hold the receiver and rear end of trigger guard apart - so is usually a 1/4" diameter action screw - I use a 5/16" drill to ream out the little "pipes" and then use that aluminum tape on the bedding screws so that I believe the 1/4" diameter action screws end up dead centre within a 5/16" diameter hole.
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I use action screws to make sure the holes line up centred, but I use surgical tube to secure the action to the stock. I then drill the holes to clear the screws. The clearing seems to have been validated by the experienced members here, but the next time I will try tin foil tape like you suggested so that I won't have to drill the holes.
 
We have our screw holes and pillars molded in the stock while laying up the stock and have 8mm diameter action screw holes to keep the screws clear of the stock. When bedding say a rem type we use 8mm steel pins with a small bit of 1/4x28 thread at the end this positions the action in the stock and makes sure the action screws do not touch the stock after bedding. To be sure we run a reamer through after bedding. Just for that bit of epoxy at the action / pin transition. We use similar pins with all other beddings we do. For zero taper moldings like the pins we found wax type release agents much better than semi perm types.

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guntech said:
It has never been demonstrated there is any benefit to bedding a recoil lug on the front, sides, or bottom. An it has never been demonstrated that paste wax is not an excellent release agent... and after 40 years of using commercial release agents, I found paste wax to be better. I used masking tape on the front, sides and bottom of a recoil lug because it was the easiest way to ensure a minimum clearance where it was desired.
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Didn't the old school BR shooters bed their actions pretty solidly into the stock? I may be remembering stories incorrectly because essentially gluing the action to the stock, while stable, would make rebarreling somewhat difficult.
 
BigUglyMan said:
Didn't the old school BR shooters bed their actions pretty solidly into the stock? I may be remembering stories incorrectly because essentially gluing the action to the stock, while stable, would make rebarreling somewhat difficult.
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I know of a variation of that - a bench rest shooter guy says he used to expoxy glue the barrelled action into a metal tube - then the metal tube was epoxy glued to the stock - so action (at least the rear tang supporting the trigger unit) was "free floating" to the rear, and the barrel to the front. Was a "throw away" process - when that barrel shot out, then the whole thing would get tossed. As I understood, would have had to dismantle the rifle stock with a hatchet, if you wanted to salvage that trigger unit. I would imagine that the scope was attached to that tube, not to the action - but I do not know that.

His notes to me say that he used to get those actions from CGN's Tiriaq, at a place that used to be known as Frobisher Bay. I do not know where he got the barrels from, nor do I know who did the work to make that kind of rifle. He is similar age to me - so likely 68 sometime this year - so was likely a few years ago, when he was an underground miner for a living - like I was.
 
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Actions glued into the stock can be re-barreled while in the stock...

Glued in actions can also be removed from the stock by heating the action. Normally this was done by a hot iron laying on the scope bases on the action...
 
guntech said:
Actions glued into the stock can be re-barreled while in the stock...

Glued in actions can also be removed from the stock by heating the action. Normally this was done by a hot iron laying on the scope bases on the action...
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Takes a long time but it does work.

Just did one recently and had to pack it all around with insulation.

Getting the residue off the receiver is not fun but a few attempts with acetone does the job.
 
To remove a glue-in, I put a wedge between the barrel and forearm, then I heat up a mandrel (to around 350F) and slide it into the receiver. After a couple minutes, the receiver pops right out. A properly glued receiver SHOULD be a little difficult to remove. I recently removed one I had glued in about forty years ago. About 1/16th inch of glass came out with it.
 
Leeper said:
To remove a glue-in, I put a wedge between the barrel and forearm, then I heat up a mandrel (to around 350F) and slide it into the receiver. After a couple minutes, the receiver pops right out. A properly glued receiver SHOULD be a little difficult to remove. I recently removed one I had glued in about forty years ago. About 1/16th inch of glass came out with it.
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That's a good tip bill, thanks. - dan
 
Leeper said:
To remove a glue-in, I put a wedge between the barrel and forearm, then I heat up a mandrel (to around 350F) and slide it into the receiver. After a couple minutes, the receiver pops right out. A properly glued receiver SHOULD be a little difficult to remove. I recently removed one I had glued in about forty years ago. About 1/16th inch of glass came out with it.
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That's much easier than what I did.

Hopefully I won't have to do another but I will definitely remember this method.
 
Depending on the receiver, you might have to heat the mandrel twice but a remington usually comes out fairly easily. A more massive action takes more. Sleeved actions are ones I dislike removing because I'm always afraid of hurting the bond between sleeve and receiver. In addition, the larger footprint makes it more difficult to break the glue loose.
 
MilitaryCollectorMark said:
Cracked a rifle I bought a while ago. Interesting bedding job on it. Full contact along the stock and recoil lug bedded. Thinking it's a older bedding job, maybe from the 80's?
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I have a couple of rifles with full length bedding, and have done that to one of my scout rifle builds. It solved a climbing zero problem for me, which I assume was due to barrel movement as it heated. - dan
 
Back in the 60's I found if the tapered part of the barrel ahead of the chamber was bedded, the group strung vertically as the barrel heated... so since then I have not bedded any larger tapers...
 
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