Bedding?
- Thread starter JNG
- Start date
JNG said:
The point of glass bedding is to improve the fit of the barreled action in the stock, so that it is exact, yet does not bind. This involves putting in a layer of gunk between action and stock, with the gun then setting up into a perfect casting that fits every nook and cranny. This can be done with many different substances, but at present the popular way to go is to use two-part epoxy mixes, usually with some filler for srength. The filler can be most anything, but the popular choices are glass fibers (hence, glass bedding), or particles of aluminum or steel. The gunk can be dyed to make it less obvious.
Here is an article about Glass Bedding.
http://www.benchrest.com/FAQ/4.2.shtml
highspeedlowdrag
Regular
- Location
- British Columbia
Except for (typically) the first 3-4" (also known as the shank), the remainder of the barrel should still be free floated when the rifle is properly bedded. The bedding process should take out any "slop" in the action to stock fit - so it should improve accuracy...
hsld.
hsld.
J
JoeP's old business account
Guest
The "Titanium Cantilever Monoblock bedding" is an effort to stiffen the stock and more importantly reduce stresses on the bedding caused by the hanging or cantilever barrel. The choice of material doesn't impact on the concept of the extra support under the receiver. The HS Precision aluminum skelton inside their fib/kevlar stocks is similar in principle.
Except for (typically) the first 3-4" (also known as the shank),
My Target rifles have free floated barrels from the recoil lug in front of the action or in case of the Millenniun rifle from the front of the action (no recoil lug) All shoot .5 MOA or better out to 1000 yards. Three of them are pillar bedded and one has the flexi-bed system.
With that said, some barrels like about 1 inch of bedding in front of the action (shank area) however most don't need it.
My Target rifles have free floated barrels from the recoil lug in front of the action or in case of the Millenniun rifle from the front of the action (no recoil lug) All shoot .5 MOA or better out to 1000 yards. Three of them are pillar bedded and one has the flexi-bed system.
With that said, some barrels like about 1 inch of bedding in front of the action (shank area) however most don't need it.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
maynard said:
Just as a point of interest Maynard, a friend of mine recently got his Ruger77
back from paul Reibin with a new Smith barrel in 6.5/284.
it was shooting well, but he wanted to bed it anyway.
I told him to bed a bit in front of the recoil lug, then check, because especially with the Ruger lug system, I have found it sometimes detrimental.
The groups opened up DRAMATICLY
!!he took the bedding out in front of the lug, and just as I assumed, they tightend up very nicely.
Just goes to show that it doesn't always work to bed the shank.
i found that on mausers it tends to help, however......
Cat
J
JoeP's old business account
Guest
Generally speaking, any barrel contact can cause problems. As the chamber heats up through use, it increases in diameter which causes the barrel to want to climb. Stresses are induced and problems can arise.
It can be a trade off and sometimes experimentation is worth while. Keeping in mind the rifle is a complete system and one part does interact with the other. As a general rule, I no longer bed the barrel area.
Bedding the barrel in front of the receiver is not recommended if there is a definite taper..... You can get away with a cylindrical surface since the edges of the stock offer little resistance to expansion........
It can be a trade off and sometimes experimentation is worth while. Keeping in mind the rifle is a complete system and one part does interact with the other. As a general rule, I no longer bed the barrel area.
Bedding the barrel in front of the receiver is not recommended if there is a definite taper..... You can get away with a cylindrical surface since the edges of the stock offer little resistance to expansion........
